gryffendorfen
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 22, 2014 15:46:55 GMT -8
Hello everyone, I decided to tackle smaller projects until the arrival of my new VamPLIERS - pliers specifically designed for removing rusty, stripped screws. First project: Hubcaps. Below is a picture. They are original, but they are extremely rusty. Based on some tips online, I tried scrubbing the rust with crumpled aluminum foil, vinegar, and salt. No luck. I then went to the auto store to buy chrome cleaner. That didn't do anything either - except stain my shirt. So I'm breaking out the big guns: two gallons of vinegar. According to online resources, soaking rusty chrome in vinegar overnight works wonders. We shall see...
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 22, 2014 17:42:22 GMT -8
Mine look similar. Problem with mine and maybe yours is the chrome is mostly gone. Try some 00 steel wool. You'll be amazed.
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gryffendorfen
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 22, 2014 19:29:27 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip SusieQ! I will soak them overnight and report the results. (Right now, it doesn't look like it's doing anything.) I will try steel wool tomorrow.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 22, 2014 19:56:30 GMT -8
After you remove all of the rust, they will have rust pits into the steel.
They need to be chemically stripped in acid ( done only at a chrome shop), and re-plated at a cost of $200 to $300 for the pair.
Option #2, is to powder coat them in bright silver, cost about $100.
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Post by vikx on Jul 22, 2014 22:33:15 GMT -8
Or paint with Rustoleum hammered silver... Not perfect but better than they are now... You could also use Rusto hammered in another color.
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gryffendorfen
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 23, 2014 5:12:41 GMT -8
Alas, the overnight vinegar bath did nothing. Nonetheless, I scrubbed the hubcaps in the vinegar bath using steel wool #00 (SusieQ). The result is below. There were some rust spots that wouldn't come out, no matter how hard I scrubbed. Are these rust pits (John Palmer)? I'm leaning towards re-chroming. I read in a previous post that the average cost of chroming decreases with the number of items to be chromed (mobiltek). If so, what other items on a '62 Shasta Airflyte can be re-chromed? Light fixtures? Handle and grip on the door? Handle and face plate on the stove? Also, the hubcaps have a few dents near the edge. I suspect these should be pounded out before re-chroming. Can I pound these out myself, or is this a job for the pros?
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Post by bigbill on Jul 23, 2014 7:10:02 GMT -8
Pounding out dents is an art some can some can't, if you try it go very slow with light touch. Sometimes you can take a piece of wood and press/rub over a dent on the back side of a hubcap and smooth them out. Go to your local auto parts store and purchase DupliColor wheel paint, spray cans in silver and the clear coat, then follow directions for painting them. after you have them painted let them dry about a week before installing. It will cost you less than twenty dollars and paint stripper will take it off if you don't like it. Don't make a decision on how you like it until the clear coat has dried over night.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 23, 2014 8:24:39 GMT -8
BigBill is correct AGAIN! LOL
If you have any remote thoughts of having the caps re-chromed, DO NOT "pound out the dents"! As Bill said removing dents from thin metal "is an art" that was perfected by the person learning the art destroying tons of parts during the learning process.
They will first remove all the original chrome and existing rust by using an acid dip, to get to the bare steel. Then they will "metal finish" the caps to make them completely smooth. They will use copper plating, and sanding to smooth small dings. If you ever have a chance to look at the back side of an old car bumper that was re-chromed, you will see hundreds of hammer marks that were made to stretch and smooth the metal. It will look like crap on the back, and be completely smooth on the front. Please leave this step up to the pros, it will save them time if you don't mess the caps up before they start.
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gryffendorfen
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 23, 2014 10:05:40 GMT -8
Thanks for the advice! I just sent pictures of the hubcaps to a local chrome shop that specializes in vehicle restorations. I'll provide an update on the estimate and, if I follow through, the result.
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txoil
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Post by txoil on Jul 23, 2014 11:47:33 GMT -8
BigBill and John Palmer are correct. If you want chrome you MUST have chrome applied. By a qualified shop. When we brought Talluah Belle her shiny bits were rusty and nasty. Here are some photos of the 'after' coming home from replating. Baby moons, Shasta Badge, Bargman Trail Lite and chevron drawer pulls/ Shasta badge installed (Apologize for the terrible pic quality) Bargman L66 handle mech after installation. The plating was expensive (it cost more than some people pay for their trailers!) but we went 'all in' on this restoration and rusty, pitted rattlecan silver would negate the hard work we put into making her shine. This topic has been discussed on this forum before, but I can heartily recommend The Chrome Man in Baton Rouge Louisiana, and I can also say DO NOT give business to Speed and Sport in Houston. Many shops will NOT plate pot metal, and Speed and Sport truly screws the customer because of this. I'll explain offline if anyone is interested.
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gryffendorfen
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Post by gryffendorfen on Jul 23, 2014 12:55:19 GMT -8
I just received an estimate: "approximately" $160 per hubcap. I didn't ask about the other pieces - Bargman handle, Shasta emblem, etc. If I take all the pieces in at once, maybe I'll get a lower unit price.
txoil, those look great! I'm with you about going "all in". I *think* I got a good deal on my trailer - it's in good condition and has lot of original pieces intact - so I feel I have some room to splurge, and a duty to make her shine. Though I say this before I even take off the skin...
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txoil
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Post by txoil on Jul 23, 2014 16:20:28 GMT -8
It's like anything else, "buy once, cry once". We could have settled on a lower quality solution but with the hundreds of hours of labor, the thousands of $$$ we spent to make it look 'right', it would have been a constant aggravating reminder that it just was not all it could be. Who wants that?
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Nov 24, 2014 19:41:58 GMT -8
Hi all, A PO did a bad job painting the moons and rims silver. I stripped the baby moons and then tried a vinegar bath and sanding. I ended up with clean hub caps that were pitted and rusty. I took them to an auto paint shop and was advised to have them sand blasted which I did. I bargained them down to $42 for both hubs. I bought some primer from Home Depot and sprayed them today. I will wait a while before painting them. Although I love the look, I didn't want to shell out the big bucks for the shiny silver so I am going to spray paint them with Krylon in a color. I still have to tackle stripping the rims. Depending on how they look, I probably won't have them sand blasted. Here is how they look so far. Unfortunately I don't have any close ups of the before. I wish I would have taken pictures of the process. <img style="max-width:100%;" alt="" src="http:// ">
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Rain Dancer
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Post by Rain Dancer on Nov 24, 2014 19:45:12 GMT -8
PS They looked alot like the photos posted by gryffendorfen Jul 2014. What did you decide and how did they come out?
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