SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 20, 2014 13:31:04 GMT -8
I wired my trailer lights today. Hooked them up and everything worked the first time. Whoo hoo, what are the chances of that? My only concern is, single filament bulb, which I wired as the tail light, is not very bright. Of course, it's daylight and cloudy outside but I was expecting more from the tail light. The blinker and brake lights (double filament bulb) are really, really bright! I know they should be brighter than the tail light, I'm just hoping the tail light is bright enough!
The wiring part I get, but now comes the dumb question. The cover says "top" on it, but the base does not. Just wondering if I have it turned correctly. Where should the little and big bulb be, respectively?
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yas
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Post by yas on Jul 20, 2014 15:26:07 GMT -8
On Lula Belle ('64 Compact), the big bulb was vertical with the base on the bottom, the little bulb was horizontal with the base on the left. I'm fairly certain I had the original base plates.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 20, 2014 16:37:37 GMT -8
Thanks, Yas. I didn't even think about looking at my original ones. I still have them; they were just terribly rusty.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 20, 2014 17:42:03 GMT -8
I wired my trailer lights today. Hooked them up and everything worked the first time. Whoo hoo, what are the chances of that? My only concern is, single filament bulb, which I wired as the tail light, is not very bright. Of course, it's daylight and cloudy outside but I was expecting more from the tail light. The blinker and brake lights (double filament bulb) are really, really bright! I know they should be brighter than the tail light, I'm just hoping the tail light is bright enough! The wiring part I get, but now comes the dumb question. The cover says "top" on it, but the base does not. Just wondering if I have it turned correctly. Where should the little and big bulb be, respectively? If the base has a small drain hole, it goes to the bottom. The TOP on the lens is because the lens is directional the way the prism was designed.
On your double filament bulb (#1157), the heaver filament is "both turn signal and brake". The smaller/thinner filament is the tail light. The second socket (assuming it is a single terminal bulb) is for a second tail light. Or if you put a higher watt bulb in, it could be a second brake light. I'd wire it as a tail light, because you need as much visibility as possible. Make sure you paint the inside of the base with bright silver paint to make it reflect as well as possible. Make sure you have "good grounds" or the bulbs will be dim.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 20, 2014 18:35:00 GMT -8
As john said about the bulbs and if you have 1157 bulbs you can substitute 2357 bulbs for a brighter light. I pulled that number from memory but any good parts house should be able to give you the wattage of the different bulbs that fit the same socket. Another number to check is a 2057, also make sure they are all 12 volt since I work with 6, 12, and 24 volt stuff I might have the numbers wrong. Some people suggest halogen bulbs but they generate a lot of heat sometimes ruining the lens. Remember to paint the reflector as John said or glue aluminum foil to it either will make the light brighter.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 20, 2014 19:25:05 GMT -8
I'm not using my old rusty ones, I have brand new ones. They are shiny. Is that not shiny enough?
And here's my second question. Should I put a gasket between the back plate and the skin? I bought gasket material. There was evidence that the marker lights had something originally.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 20, 2014 20:07:48 GMT -8
I'm not using my old rusty ones, I have brand new ones. They are shiny. Is that not shiny enough? And here's my second question. Should I put a gasket between the back plate and the skin? I bought gasket material. There was evidence that the marker lights had something originally. OK, you have new ones, but are they stainless steel (VTS) or maybe new aluminum? If they are you can polish the back surface on a buffing wheel and they will be like mirrors, much better than painting them. But if they are just cad plated steel, I would paint them bright silver, or I like Bill's idea of using aluminum foil as a reflector.
I fill the back lip of the base with RV putty, I use 3/4" by 1/8", and some lights it takes two passes. Basically I want the base to be well sealed to the trailer skin, and not all skins are very smooth depending on the brake pattern. If the lens has a seal, I use it, if not, I omit it, it's not important. Just make sure the water and condensation "that will collect" inside the light assembly has a 1/8" drain hole to escape.
Susie, I do the marker lights the same way.
Also, if your at the auto supply pick up a "small" tube of Dielectric Grease, (looks like Vaseline) and coat the bases of your bulbs and the contact points inside the sockets. A small tube will last you for years, it goes a long way, like Locktite thread sealant. You will eliminate all of the moisture corrosion in your bulb sockets and they will work fine for years.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 20, 2014 20:30:20 GMT -8
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Post by bigbill on Jul 21, 2014 8:13:05 GMT -8
That little bulb is definitely not a tail light by itself was probably a parking light years ago. I would do as John said and wire it as an additional tail light.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 21, 2014 11:16:50 GMT -8
Thanks, I really didn't think it was bright enough for a tail light. I should have just bought the single bulb version but I was trying to replace it like original.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 21, 2014 13:59:17 GMT -8
I'm not sure anyone has noticed the change in packaging on replacement 12v bulbs recently.
When you use to purchase 12v replacement bulbs at any of the I know nothing "unless it's in the computer" convenience type auto parts stores they had the bulb's wattage printed on the package. Now it only states the bulb part number. If you ask them to look up the wattage from the part number they just look at you with a dumb face.
When your interchanging single and double filament bulbs, it might be necessary to purchase them at a real parts store like a NAPA dealer, so you will know "how bright the bulb will be" before you purchase it.
End of rant!
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Post by bigbill on Jul 21, 2014 15:02:34 GMT -8
The problem isn't that they don't have the info they just aren't train to find it. That is better than calling them dumb.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 21, 2014 17:48:51 GMT -8
Thanks John and Bill for your help. I think I've finally got it. It took some time to figure out which wire went to which filament on each light but it seems to work now with the little light being an extra tail light. And I will get some Dielectric grease. Hubby may have some already since he's an electronics guru; he's just not here at the moment. He sure had a nice Vise Grip cutter/stripper/crimper that didn't go with him this time  |
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Post by bigbill on Jul 21, 2014 20:20:27 GMT -8
When comparing 1157 bulbs to 2357 bulbs the 2357 bulbs are 50% brighter on the low filament (tail lights) and also 25% brighter on the high filament (brake, turn) as well. This makes A great difference in being seen or not. There is a slight trade off being that the 2357 has a slightly shorter life but it is rated at 400 hours which is about the life off a conventional headlight.
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