silvertonguedevil
Member
1958 Shasta ~ 1959 Windsor
Posts: 47
Likes: 9
Currently Offline
|
Post by silvertonguedevil on Dec 28, 2017 10:56:31 GMT -8
This thread is both frightening and awesome at the same time! I'm sure I'll be contributing as soon as I pull back the skins on our '59 Windsor. She's awfully soft...
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
   
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 3,706
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Dec 28, 2017 11:23:45 GMT -8
Any trailer that is 7 years old or older has rot. The degree depends on many factors.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
   
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 3,706
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Dec 28, 2017 18:48:56 GMT -8
The advice that I give is that you should do a complete reseal on your trailer 7 to 15 years after it's finished if you want to be somewhat sure that your trailer isn't leaking. Remember that until you see something inside you don't know. And once you see it inside the possibility of much more damage between the skins is likely. So as an extra guarantee against leakage the first thing to do is build it right in the first place. Don't skimp when it comes to keeping your trailer sealed. The second thing to do is to protect it. A steel cover large enough to park your trailer under is a very low cost way to do that. And third, depending upon you climate and your storage methods all trailers should be resealed between 7 and 15 years after the date of finish. Just like a house needs a new roof.
The only other option is indoor storage and not very frequent use in weather.
Even high end trailers like Airstreams develop leaks after time. It's in the usual places around openings such as windows, vents and doors. In the case of an accident they can leak at the riveted seams even. Plastic trailers will leak as well but if there is no wood involved then all you get is mold. Oh goodie...
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Currently Offline
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2017 20:17:55 GMT -8
Thanks Mobiltec...
So when you say "reseal every 7-15 years", do you mean replace every inch of putty tape and butyl tape throughout the entire camper?? Do you also replace every inch of window and door gasket material? Do you also reapply fence post paint on the underside of the floor, walls, and wheel wells? "Seal" is a pretty general term and covers lots of territory.
Sounds to me like you're restoring the camper complete, but this time around only dismantling, removing all the old sealing materials, replace with new sealing materials, and reassembling? How many hours of time would you estimate to perform all this work?
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Dec 28, 2017 21:54:06 GMT -8
I don't always re-seal mine after 7 years; 15 is more realistic. I think storage is SO important. All vintage trailers should be stored under cover. A lean to, metal carport, RV cover or even a tarp is better than nothing. I don't really expect damage from camping. For one thing, a person will notice a leak and mop up. As the trailer is towed, it will shed water.
The two things that damage our trailers the most are sun and the freeze/thaw cycle. Hot sun can fry putty very quickly. Take a look at the putty on an Arizona trailer; much of it is black and hard as a rock. It makes sense to be very careful with a vintage trailer who is in the sun much of the time. I would seek shade.
The freeze/thaw cycle is just as bad. You have a tiny gap in the putty but didn't notice it. When a trailer is stored outside during the winter, moisture enters the tiny gap. The trailer isn't leaking. YET. As it gets colder and finally freezes, the tiny gap enlarges. Repeated many times over, that gap has become large enough to cause a nasty leak.
Debris on the roof can also wreck havoc on a trailer. Pine needles, leaves, that sort of thing. When piled up, they will rot steel or aluminum right thru. Another reason to cover your trailer.
Yes, our trailers can take a beating going down the road. But to me it is SITTING that causes damage. They were designed to travel, so go camping!
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
   
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 3,706
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Dec 28, 2017 22:03:09 GMT -8
It takes about 3 days to replace all the putty tape in the trailer's removable parts. You can do it one day at a time over a period of weeks or even months. Do the street side J Rail one weekend. Do the curb side next time. Then pull one window at a time. One door at a time. You don't have to do it all in one week. While you have a window and brow removed go ahead and do any screen or hardware repairs, gaskets and seals. Polish... Undercoating is something I've never dealt with so I have no opinion on that. The windows seem to be the first to leak unless cap rail or "top edge molding" was used. That goes very quickly. Much of it depends on weather and exposure.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Currently Offline
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2017 22:25:13 GMT -8
Thanks for the detail Vikx and Mobiltec. Pretty much confirms the fact that they are bound to leak, sooner or later, without good and very thorough preventive maintenance periodically. Covering the camper is a great idea and will lengthen the duration between maintenance events.
Getting back to one of my initial questions. Do you disclose this information to a prospective buyer? I'd be concerned that many folks out there might believe the camper will last for a "leak-free" lifetime - kind of like houses and cars. Have you ever had a buyer come back at a later date and complain about their camper leaking?
Just want to prepare myself for that first sale someday...
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Dec 28, 2017 23:08:02 GMT -8
No complaints but it will happen. I ALWAY include maintenance instructions with the trailers. If they do as instructed, the trailers should be fine.
Again, storing under cover is the key.
Houses and cars aren't ever leak free. Take a look in the attic around the vent pipes. Look at the door frame of a car thru heavy rain...
|
|
shekaye
Junior Member

crazy
Posts: 92
Likes: 31
Shasta Trailer - unknown
Currently Offline
|
Post by shekaye on Oct 24, 2019 5:21:29 GMT -8
I wonder if wrapping the outside under the aluminum skin with tar paper? It's just something my husband and I have been rolling around in our heads. That's how you protect a house. Maybe it would be too heavy... IDK.
|
|
aslmx
1K Member
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 357
Currently Offline
|
Post by aslmx on Oct 24, 2019 9:05:07 GMT -8
I wonder if wrapping the outside under the aluminum skin with tar paper? It's just something my husband and I have been rolling around in our heads. That's how you protect a house. Maybe it would be too heavy... IDK. I’m not sure if tar paper will breathe. You want something breathable like house wrap.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator    
Posts: 7,661
Likes: 2,837
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Oct 24, 2019 10:06:53 GMT -8
I wonder if wrapping the outside under the aluminum skin with tar paper? It's just something my husband and I have been rolling around in our heads. That's how you protect a house. Maybe it would be too heavy... IDK. I’m not sure if tar paper will breathe. You want something breathable like house wrap. I agree with aslmx. Something like Tyvek or a store brand of house wrap works great.
|
|
shekaye
Junior Member

crazy
Posts: 92
Likes: 31
Shasta Trailer - unknown
Currently Offline
|
Post by shekaye on Oct 24, 2019 10:28:09 GMT -8
Good point aslmx and nccamper. I will relay this info to my husband.
|
|
Shan Delee
Member
Posts: 41
Likes: 6
1963 Century
Currently Offline
|
Post by Shan Delee on Nov 27, 2019 7:17:43 GMT -8
So in keeping with the title of the thread "Wood Rot Hall of Fame Pics" here is my pile of junk......
Note the spray foam. It really helped a lot.
The walls on this trailer sit on top of the floor. Notice there is not floor left and the walls are being held up by being screwed to the cabinets.
Upper cabinet after removing cover-up the PO put on.
Anyone else think I'm crazy yet? Besides me and my husband?
Floor is rotted out around the entire edge. So much so that getting an accurate measurement of how wide it is is iffy.
The roof after being lifted off. Along with some other dead things at our farm.
More ugly stuff can be seen on the thread "1963 Century Travel Trailer"
|
|
pthib
Member
Posts: 46
Likes: 35
1966 Buco
Currently Offline
|
Post by pthib on Jan 25, 2021 19:01:43 GMT -8
Here are a few pictures of what I found when I took apart my 1967 Kustom Koach. About all that was holding the front window was the screws through the metal skin. All of the lower front wall came out with one good yank! Between the rot and the poorly done previous repairs the wall framing was a mess. When I really had a look underneath there was only 3 of the 12 floor bolts holding the body to the frame as well as bad crack on the frame where it had been poorly repaired right at the point where the side rails are spliced to the tongue.  Curb side lower front corner  Street side upper corner  Upper curb side roof edge  Lower front wall
|
|