chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Jul 12, 2014 8:42:18 GMT -8
Hi All…. Having new aluminum put on the ol' trailer. I'm considering having a restoration professional do some limited frame and interior panel repair/replacement, then re-skin... and a separate painter do the finish painting. (It has to be this way… don't ask  ). I'm considering having the restorer use factory finished white aluminum on the entire rig and have the painter work over that. Is this a wise way to go? I've consulted an automotive painter who said that this would work well for him in applying the new colors. Should I instead use unpainted, unfinished aluminum instead? Can I also assume that all windows, etc. would and should be removed for the final paint work… then replaced and resealed? Thanks. |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 12, 2014 9:05:27 GMT -8
Sand to 400, Epoxie prime, apply paint, then graphics, then cut out windows/install, then finish with edge trim.
The only option to consider would be "when best to install the storage door", due to how your graphics will be laid out. I usually hang the door for paint, but trim it after it's painted.
Biggest area for a possible problem is the painter not sanding the new metal enough. Most painters will just scuff it with a 3M Scottbrite and call it "good enough", but it really needs to be sanded to give it some tooth to adhere, as the new RV metal has a hard clearcoat finish when new. Basically you want "No Shiney Metal" before paint.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Jul 12, 2014 9:46:42 GMT -8
Sand to 400, Epoxie prime, apply paint, then graphics, then cut out windows/install, then finish with edge trim. The only option to consider would be "when best to install the storage door", due to how your graphics will be laid out. I usually hang the door for paint, but trim it after it's painted. Biggest area for a possible problem is the painter not sanding the new metal enough. Most painters will just scuff it with a 3M Scottbrite and call it "good enough", but it really needs to be sanded to give it some tooth to adhere, as the new RV metal has a hard clearcoat finish when new. Basically you want "No Shiney Metal" before paint. Thanks John! Could you be more specific… or use layman's terms regarding this: "...cut out windows/install, then finish with edge trim." Also: "...Biggest area for a possible problem is the painter not sanding the new metal enough." Are you talking about bare metal or could I use a factory painted (white) aluminum as the base for sanding then painting? |
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jul 12, 2014 19:11:30 GMT -8
The factory paint needs to be roughed up to give the new paint something to bite into. As John said, you can sand down to 400 grit, shoot epoxy primer and then topcoat over that. This way will give you good adhesion and bonding. If correct steps are not followed, the new paint will NOT adhere well and will peel or lift...then how would you feel after paying the $$$$ for a paint job?
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Jul 12, 2014 21:11:45 GMT -8
….then how would you feel after paying the $$$$ for a paint job? I would not feel so good. Txoil/John: thanks for your advice. A little clearer now.  I'll proceed and let you all know. |
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coloradoan
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1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 18, 2014 12:37:02 GMT -8
The only option to consider would be "when best to install the storage door", due to how your graphics will be laid out. I usually hang the door for paint, but trim it after it's painted. I don't want the hinges painted on the entry door or the baggage doors. Does the painter just paint the doors separately (not hung on the trailer)? The Zstripe goes through the entry door, but the baggage doors are solid color. |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 18, 2014 13:21:26 GMT -8
The only option to consider would be "when best to install the storage door", due to how your graphics will be laid out. I usually hang the door for paint, but trim it after it's painted. I don't want the hinges painted on the entry door or the baggage doors. Does the painter just paint the doors separately (not hung on the trailer)? The Zstripe goes through the entry door, but the baggage doors are solid color. It all comes down to the time allowed for the job. If you leave it up to your painter, they will paint everything because it's quicker and easier.
You can paint the graphics on your doors just like they paint the door jambs on a high dollar auto paint job. Install the doors and tape all the graphics (to make sure everything aligns). Then remove the doors, and tape the jambs with the doors off of the trailer. Spray the graphics, then reinstall the doors after they are completely dry. I'm sure you can see that it's more time consuming this way, but it's the only way to do it and not have overspray on all of your trims.
It's also much easier for the sign painter to paint the pin stripe on the trailer when the doors are off.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 18, 2014 13:24:48 GMT -8
Good. That was the procedure I thought should happen. Thanks for the verification, John.
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). I'm considering having the restorer use factory finished white aluminum on the entire rig and have the painter work over that. Is this a wise way to go? I've consulted an automotive painter who said that this would work well for him in applying the new colors. Should I instead use unpainted, unfinished aluminum instead? Can I also assume that all windows, etc. would and should be removed for the final paint work… then replaced and resealed? Thanks.
I'll proceed and let you all know.
