kc
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1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Jul 4, 2014 21:42:12 GMT -8
So, underneath the fold of the roof skin that folds over the side skin, ours has old putty. It does not seem necessary to put it there but yet there it is.
So I have two questions I guess. 1. Is really necessary underneath the fold. 2. since we are only opening the front and back up and not the middle, removing the potty in the middle is not being done. Should we putty just to keep consistent? Ohhhhh what to do?!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 4, 2014 21:47:44 GMT -8
I would not install the putty "under" the seam, because the roof seam would not be secure to the wall, IMO.
I WOULD instead use a urethane over the entire seam after it bent over and stapled to give the extra protection. Let it dry (harden) for a week, then install the Rain Rail with the putty under the rain rail as would be normal procedure.
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Post by vikx on Jul 4, 2014 22:09:14 GMT -8
I normally don't put putty under the fold. I don't pick it out either, if the fold is still in place. So, no putty under the front and back, leave it where you're not disturbing anything.
Also, Gutter Seal is very handy to seal new staple marks and old holes. Be VERY SPARING. Just a tiny dab on each staple, then smooth. If you'll be using the old J rail, wait to do the holes until just before the new putty install, that way, if you miss a hole, it will be sealed. Again, tiny amount.
Good luck and glad you didn't have to do the middle.
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coloradoan
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1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 6, 2014 19:49:15 GMT -8
My 59 Shasta also had putty between the sides and the roof/front/back panels. I was going to replicate that and don't quite understand why the advice is not to. More details, please. Seems like it would be one more line of defense against the dreaded leak monsters.
This brings up another question - since I'm not going to be painting the Jrail, should I have the painter mask where the Jrail will go so the putty is in contact with bare aluminum, or is it okay that it will be going over paint?
Thank goodness for all you more experienced trailer enthusiasts!! I am so grateful for all your help.
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Post by vikx on Jul 6, 2014 22:11:30 GMT -8
You can putty over the paint, it will be fine. We do it all the time.
I guess the only "reason" for not installing putty under the fold is space. In other words, the metal doesn't fold as flat as it used to (not sure how the manufacturers did this)I've run into trouble with too thick putty and having a mess on my hands. The J rail doesn't really seat as well. Also, the putty used under the flap seems to be a lot thinner than the J rail putty.
So: you could use 1/2 x 1/16 under the flap, (butyl?) then staple the metal. Paint, then install the J rail with regular RV putty.
By the way, I discovered a new TRICK today: After installing the J rail, the underside is particularly hard to trim and make presentable. Trim once and let sit a day. It will ooze overnight. I take my VERY DULL electrician's knife (the screwdriver blade) and pull the putty smooth, sort of like frosting a cake. Also trim if necessary, but this method really beats "poking putty". The underside looks nice afterwards. Hard to describe the exact movement. Hope this helps y'all...
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Post by bigbill on Jul 7, 2014 3:59:36 GMT -8
vikx try using a small plastic spreader like you spread bondo with, use the corner to cut along the rail then use flat side to lift excess off.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 7, 2014 8:03:45 GMT -8
vikx try using a small plastic spreader like you spread bondo with, use the corner to cut along the rail then use flat side to lift excess off. Agree, and also "spray some WD-40 (or like oil)" on the cutting tool, so the putty does not stick to it. |
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Post by vikx on Jul 7, 2014 22:19:17 GMT -8
Good Advice Bill and John. Wish I had read it this afternoon... Awning rail is on the Cardinal.
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