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Post by vikx on Jun 16, 2014 21:43:30 GMT -8
OK, people, I have a problem: The Cardinal dinettes are only 12" high. In order to install a water tank, I will have to cut thru the seat support on the wall and the fill will be "iffy" at best. The tank won't fill completely because the tube has to be on the side, about 2" below the top... An option would be to lift the dinette seat to fill the tank rather than an outside fill. What do you think? I'm thinking of leaving it a city water trailer only with no tank. It can always be added later. HOW IMPORTANT IS A WATER TANK AND PUMP TO YOU?? Thanks for your answers.
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soup
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Post by soup on Jun 17, 2014 2:38:28 GMT -8
Only important for boon docking. We have only boon docked on the road during travel to our destinations. (Rest areas, truck stops, Walmart and Cracker Barrel parking lots. Once when our motor home broke down next to the Pigeon River in The Smokey Mountains.) Come to think of it, I guess we did use it on every trip we took except to campgrounds on weekend trips.
Will an RV flex fill water hose work from a modern camper? As long as it's off set a bit forward or aft it should work. It just can't go direct 90 degrees from side wall to fill top of tank. It has to bee at least a foot long and going into a 90 degree fitting on top of the tank facing the flex hose direction. Picture fill location at least 12" forward of the fill hole on top of the tank. The flex hose would almost end up running flat level but would barley have a downward slope to it towards the tank.
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Post by kto17 on Jun 17, 2014 7:38:45 GMT -8
Just a crazy thought here, but bare with me.
You could add line from the city supply to before the pump side of the pump supply. You may have to add a shut off valve at both locations then install a small vent/overflow on the top of the tank. Use the city supply and pressure with that valve open and the valve at the pump closed to fill the tank from the bottom and just fill till it overflows.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jun 17, 2014 8:10:45 GMT -8
Water tank is important to me but I am putting a 7 gallon reliance plastic (BPA free) container under my sink. It can be removed, cleaned and replaced easily if it leaks. And if that's not enough water, you can always carry a spare in the tow vehicle.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 17, 2014 8:22:23 GMT -8
I like Susie Q's idea.. I may consider that myself. I was also going to say that here in Canada we mostly get the water tank custom built from places that make plastic septic tanks, not expensive really... I don't know if you have that option in the USA or how expensive it is, but might be worth an enquiry.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 17, 2014 8:44:53 GMT -8
I like to design and fabricate with the idea of making things "idiot proof". By that I mean, you should be able to work with something "without any special knowledge, or skills". Doug's idea would work fine, but will three "future owners" from now understand which valves need to be "open or closed"? Likewise, someone, someday,......will surely spill water inside the trailer when filling the tank from the inside, and it will ruin your day.
Is the skin already on, or does it have a existing filler hole that you need to use? Maybe use a flex hose like Soup suggested, and a filler mounted higher up, "but on the front"? One thing that is important, if your outside filler is slightly "too low", and the "tank" filler/or elbow is level, you need to have the top of the tank vented to atmosphere to have any chance of getting it completely full.
On the "pressure side", I like to connect my city water pressure, to my SureFlo pressure, by using two back flow valves. Again, it's "idiot proof" because you will have "only ONE" water source line to your sink faucet/hot water heater, or toilet no matter if you have the trailer connected to city water or just your tank. The electric water pump should be switched to OFF during travel for safety.
Vikx, STEP BACK......I'm sure you will figure it out. LOL
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Post by kto17 on Jun 17, 2014 8:54:46 GMT -8
I agree with the idiot proofing. I'm not always smart enough to adhere to the KISS principle, But I'm good at doing things twice! I'm one of those that has to learn from my own mistakes sometimes.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 17, 2014 8:55:06 GMT -8
Water tank is important to me but I am putting a 7 gallon reliance plastic (BPA free) container under my sink. It can be removed, cleaned and replaced easily if it leaks. And if that's not enough water, you can always carry a spare in the tow vehicle. Not a bad solution for some applications.
But......7 gallons of water, times 8# per gallon weight, is going to be close to 60 pounds with a tank to lug out of your trunk, up into the trailer, and place under your sink. Depending on where your sink is located, this will also have an effect on your trailer tongue weight for towing. It's lots easier (and also better) to just locate a "secured stationary" water tank "in front of the axle center line" (if you have the available space).
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 17, 2014 9:01:10 GMT -8
I agree with the idiot proofing. I'm not always smart enough to adhere to the KISS principle, But I'm good at doing things twice! I'm one of those that has to learn from my own mistakes sometimes. LOL,
The KISS system was developed by all of us that "have done it the hard way", before we figured out "a simpler way".
The problem I have is that I have to try "several hard ways", before "I accept the easy way".
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jun 17, 2014 11:40:14 GMT -8
Water tank is important to me but I am putting a 7 gallon reliance plastic (BPA free) container under my sink. It can be removed, cleaned and replaced easily if it leaks. And if that's not enough water, you can always carry a spare in the tow vehicle. Not a bad solution for some applications.
But......7 gallons of water, times 8# per gallon weight, is going to be close to 60 pounds with a tank to lug out of your trunk, up into the trailer, and place under your sink. Depending on where your sink is located, this will also have an effect on your trailer tongue weight for towing. It's lots easier (and also better) to just locate a "secured stationary" water tank "in front of the axle center line" (if you have the available space).
I know how much that container weighs full. I lugged it around 8000 miles pulling my teardrop and either kept it in the teardrop and had to take it out or I had to pack around it in my small tow vehicle. Once, I had the bright idea to not fill it until I was closer to my next destination... BIG MISTAKE. I never found anywhere to fill it and was lucky to find a store where I could purchase water in the desert. That is one reason that a water container is important to me and that I have one that I don't have to lug. As for filling it, my water hose will reach inside my camper. It will affect my tongue weight, but not adversely. My battery will be in the back where the original water tank was located. Most batteries are on the tongue. Should even things out.
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Post by vikx on Jun 17, 2014 22:54:55 GMT -8
Wow, thanks you guys! General consensus is: you NEED a water tank.
Skin is on the trailer, backers in place. The problem is that the dinettes had to be only 12" high to accommodate the sprung seats. (clearing the window mechanism) The side fill on my existing tank is about 7". To get any sort of drop, the outside fill should be at least at the top of the 12" mark, thus cutting into the back dinette support board. Can't go higher because of the seats.
I will continue to tinker and come up with a plan. Pictures to come.
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