HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jun 15, 2014 3:53:09 GMT -8
Hi All,
Got any ideas for repairing holes resulting from corrosion? I have a small area on the side (about a 5" square area) where I have a number of holes due to corrosion, from pin hole to 3/4". I have the panel loose off the trailer, so I have access to both sides and there are no obstacles. I am trying to avoid an exposed patch if possible.
I tried brazing yesterday and it seems to work OK with one exception - as I move along the area to repair the holes, the previously repaired holes are so close together that the material stays hot and flows out. If I had one hole to do, I think this method would work well. I would like to get this method to work as I think the result would be the best aesthetically.
After I was done brazing, I was going to put some foil tape on the inside for a little extra insurance, but I am trying to figure out how to get the brazing to stay put first. I'll post some pictures later.
Any ideas appreciated!
Thanks,
Greg |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 15, 2014 8:32:14 GMT -8
First, you don't state if your working with aluminum, or steel siding?
Bronze/brass brazing is you would work with steel, and on aluminum they promote some products at swap meets that they claim to be aluminum brazing but IMO it's just a form of low melting temperature aluminum solder. The problem with repairs like this is the fact that your applying it to very thin wall siding. Siding is in the range of only .025" to .035" thick. When you apply the heat necessary to melt the bronze or solder it's going to expand the siding and it will warp due to uneven "localized" heating. To compound the heat warping problem, is that the repair will end up both "thicker, and also stiffer" than the thin siding. Basically even if you get it all to stick, it's going to look like "KA KA" when your done.
You need to replace the damaged panel, or at the very least "skin over" the damaged panel for any kind of an acceptable looking repair.
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Post by vikx on Jun 15, 2014 22:13:59 GMT -8
John's right but the good news is that it's only 5" square. Use the sticky waterproofing tape as you described and find a louvered vent or something to cover it. Maybe a light? Acess door? Lots of options. Post a pix so we can see...
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jun 16, 2014 16:58:16 GMT -8
OK, the material is aluminum.
Here is an area where I tried brazing. It almost worked, a couple pin holes remain. 
Here is the same piece a little farther away. The damage is to the far left. 
This is the side of the trailer where it would go. All the way to the left end. 
The area is very small and I feel I could clean it up pretty good with the brazing, I am just worried about leaks.
Thanks,
Greg
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 16, 2014 20:33:26 GMT -8
Greg, Here's the deal on the skin. Your "in/out" pattern is easy to replicate on a sheet metal brake. The cost of skin is in the $4 per square foot range, or to say it another way, it's going to cost you about $16 to $20 per linear foot (the panels come in four foot widths) to replace the damaged metal. You could likely add a vertical seam over a framing upright and just replace a couple of feet of skin. It looks like you have "done the rebuild correctly" so far, take the "high road" on the skin repair.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jun 17, 2014 14:46:03 GMT -8
John - I appreciate the feedback. I am concerned about the new panel not matching the character (dings, scratches, marks) in the old. Also not sure if it would polish up the same. However, I am not opposed to replacing the panel or a section of it if I have to. Looking at it that way, I am thinking that I have nothing to lose trying to repair it. I will give it a try and if it gets wrecked, then there is always the replacement option. I am just asking the question to get potential new ideas before going forward with a repair attempt and/or potential replacement.
Thanks,
Greg
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jun 17, 2014 16:30:49 GMT -8
Well it is not perfect, but I think I can live with it. I'll grind and polish it a little more, but with all the other dents, dings, scratches, it should not stand out too bad. I just want to keep the water out.
Here it is: 
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Post by vikx on Jun 17, 2014 22:24:16 GMT -8
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