cheri
Active Member
Posts: 163 
Likes: 46
1967 Vanbrook Trunkback
Currently Offline
|
Post by cheri on Jun 12, 2014 4:19:10 GMT -8
Hi Everyone,
I am trying to put the skin back on my Wildcat, and it isn't working out like I envisioned. (No surprise, eh?) I replaced all the framing in the front and rear, and portions of the sidewalls. I took pictures and measured a million times, but the screw holes in the aluminum are between a 16th and an 8th inch off. Even the vertical seam on the drivers side where no framing was repaired is slightly off. (I think it is shifted because of repairs at the rear) I also wonder if the skin stretched a bit while I was working and it was not completely fastened down.
So, is this typical? Is it ok? Do I need to fill the old holes with epoxy before I put new screws in? I have an assortment of screws, some longer, some larger in diameter. From the look of the edges of the aluminum and the holes in the framing, this isn't the first time the skin has come off, so I'm not even sure of the original measurements. I'm not looking for perfection, but I don't want her to leak or rip apart going down the road.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheri
|
|
|
|
Post by universalexports on Jun 12, 2014 17:12:19 GMT -8
I really have no idea what you should do, but if it's a big piece, aluminum expands and contacts a lot with temperature changes, you could try it when it is hotter or cooler. that's why most aluminum has creases and those slight humps to allow for the shrinkage and expansion, it is bad about "oil canning" if you put flat aluminum on the sides.
|
|
SusieQ
Global Moderator 
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 1,197
'62 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by SusieQ on Jun 12, 2014 18:05:51 GMT -8
Also, make sure your trailer is level. Weird things happen when it's not.
|
|
lakewoodgirl
Active Member
Posts: 270
Likes: 92
1954 Lakewood
Currently Offline
|
Post by lakewoodgirl on Jun 12, 2014 19:51:00 GMT -8
Mine is just a hair off in places, especially the door due to a shift because of decay, rot, and a PO accident. But! The door would not close before. Now the door is square, the floor is level, so with any luck, the door will close when it goes back on and it will be a near perfect fit. The skin being so very slightly off does not worry me because I know trim will cover it. And, I used all the old framing as my templates and replaced piece by piece.
Scratching your head comes with the territory. We all do it! No trailer restoration or rebuild will be exactly the same because these trailers were all originally put together by hand not machines.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 12, 2014 21:58:59 GMT -8
Very typical. I use Gutter Seal to fill the old holes in the siding. A very small dab and smooth flat. Do the staples as well. Wait to do the fold over holes until just before attaching the J rail. That way, all holes will be well sealed.
NOTE: I always pre-drill for the J rail, not deep and not overly large (less than 1/8 bit). Pre-drilling prevents crooked screws and facilitates a good seal.
|
|
cheri
Active Member
Posts: 163
Likes: 46
1967 Vanbrook Trunkback
Currently Offline
|
Post by cheri on Jun 13, 2014 2:10:28 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies everyone. I will move ahead, get them as close as I can and close her up. I have my tubes of gutter seal ready in my supply box. Most of the seams on this trailer are butted together not folded. Would it be a good idea to put some gutter seal on the seams before I put the butyl on?
Thanks again for the replies and especially reassurance. I was one of those newbies who thought they would just fix things from the inside, but the great people on this forum have given me confidence to take this on in a big way. I'm really happy that I took the roof and ceiling off and put the new panels in where they belong rather than just tacking them up from underneath. The whole trailer feels sturdier.
Thanks,
Cheri
|
|
ladywendolyn
2K Member
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 928
1964 Golden Falcon
Currently Offline
|
Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 13, 2014 4:53:46 GMT -8
Very typical. I use Gutter Seal to fill the old holes in the siding. A very small dab and smooth flat. Do the staples as well. Wait to do the fold over holes until just before attaching the J rail. That way, all holes will be well sealed. NOTE: I always pre-drill for the J rail, not deep and not overly large (less than 1/8 bit). Pre-drilling prevents crooked screws and facilitates a good seal. Great advice! I love this forum... and I'm glad I have waited a bit before jumping right into my rebuild I am learning about so many things that will effect the outcome of my trailer! |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 13, 2014 9:56:53 GMT -8
Thanks LadyW.
Advice comes from trials and errors, LOL.
My first J rail/putty job was a nightmare: On a 65 Oasis, the metal was rippled and the rail wouldn't seat. Finally beat it into submission with a rubber hammer, the final result wasn't pretty. Oddly, I've never had another trailer with such a rough edge. If I had it to do over, I would probably remove all the staples and cut reliefs so the metal would lay flat before even attempting to mount the J rail...
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,824 
Likes: 3,750
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jun 13, 2014 14:25:01 GMT -8
When the roof, front or rear holes don't line up it's because you have changed the position (level) of the trailer since you took the roof off. Or it was uneven when you took it off and it settled differently. Either way all you need to do is get a jack and jack up one corner or the other a little bit until they all line up. They will when you get it right. Try one corner and if it starts to get worse, go to the other. Try that and see what happens. One of the corners being jacked up a little will fix the problem and you can move on.
|
|
pam
Junior Member
Posts: 61
Likes: 15
Serro Scotty 69
Currently Offline
|
Post by pam on Jun 18, 2014 5:01:35 GMT -8
When the roof, front or rear holes don't line up it's because you have changed the position (level) of the trailer since you took the roof off. Or it was uneven when you took it off and it settled differently. Either way all you need to do is get a jack and jack up one corner or the other a little bit until they all line up. They will when you get it right. Try one corner and if it starts to get worse, go to the other. Try that and see what happens. One of the corners being jacked up a little will fix the problem and you can move on. Another great piece of advice! Leveling seems to be at the root of a number of issues. Thanks for asking such great questions Cheri! |
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Nov 1, 2014 21:06:19 GMT -8
Very typical. I use Gutter Seal to fill the old holes in the siding. A very small dab and smooth flat. Do the staples as well. Wait to do the fold over holes until just before attaching the J rail. That way, all holes will be well sealed. NOTE: I always pre-drill for the J rail, not deep and not overly large (less than 1/8 bit). Pre-drilling prevents crooked screws and facilitates a good seal. Vik, In the top line of your quote, you mention "I use gutter Seal to fill the old holes in the siding." Is this referencing only the misaligned holes where the J- rail goes or any other holes in the aluminum skin elsewhere on the trailer? i thought JB Weld was the filler of choice for screw holes or pin holes in the siding. |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Nov 1, 2014 21:49:09 GMT -8
As above, we are discussing the Edge trim/J rail area here. The siding goes on and may have holes or staple divets at the top and along the sides. I seal those. Then, when the roof goes on, I check the edges before installing the J rail. Splits and nicks are sealed.
There isn't really a "filler of choice" for the body area. It depends on where the flaw/hole is and how big. Sometimes, it's better to cover a hole than seal. Sealers are always visable, even painted. A good body person will use whatever it takes and spend hours sanding to remove any trace.
|
|
Paul B
Junior Member
Posts: 73
Likes: 31
Friendship Vacationaire
Currently Offline
|
Post by Paul B on Nov 6, 2014 16:26:12 GMT -8
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 576
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Nov 6, 2014 22:01:06 GMT -8
Clecos are very handy when working on a riveted skin trailer.
They would offer no benefit when working on a canned ham type of construction.
|
|
