Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on May 24, 2014 18:33:03 GMT -8
I am trying to wrap my mind around how I can replace my old Dometic fridge with a college dorm fridge that we have. The fridge we have is unreliable and we usually end up losing food if we are on the road longer than 6 hours. So, I am trying to figure out how to incorporate a battery and inverter into the mix, while using power from the tow vehicle to charge the battery. My question is how do you incorporate the inverter to your existing fuse box? When you switch to shore power, how does that work?
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Post by vikx on May 24, 2014 22:07:47 GMT -8
I am not super into inverters, but I will try to help.
First, to run 110 items on a battery, you'll need more than one battery. Usually, it's a battery bank using 6 volt golf cart batteries. Anything with a motor or heating element drains a battery very quickly.
I doubt a factory equipped vehicle/alternator will keep up with a refrigerator. Depends on the fridge. If you went with a Norcold AC/DC, (can you spell spendy?)it would be more efficient than a dorm unit. Just depends on the vehicle alternator output. You could upgrade and use larger gauge wire to accomplish the charge while on the road...
There are a lot of complicated issues to research before you go this route. Our vintage trailers are quite efficient as they are. Many inverters are run off a subpanel, which allows only certain circuits to operate. In other words, any dedicated circuit (such as an air conditioner or a power CONverter) is not run off the inverter. A transfer switch is required. Inverters generally have a fan that requires power as well.
Do some searching and see what you find. Personally, I'd use a good quality ice chest. We take one every trip anyway. Please let us know your results.
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Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on May 25, 2014 6:34:49 GMT -8
I love the fridge I have. I just wish the thermocouple and shutoff valve were still repairable.
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Post by universalexports on May 25, 2014 11:51:55 GMT -8
you could just do a stand alone system, a deep cycle battery with a power converter hooked to it,
my dorm fridge is a higher line one that is energy star rated at 4.5 amps, so a deep cycle 100 amp hour battery should power it for 20 hours minus the power consumed from the inverter.
I would think you could put the battery in the tow vehicle, get some long proper gauge wire and put the converter in the camper then plug the fridge into it. but I am in NO WAY an electrician, and know very little about this stuff.
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pirateslife
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1969 Shasta Compact
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Post by pirateslife on May 25, 2014 12:16:48 GMT -8
Also, if you have room for another battery under the hood, you can isolate the battery so as not to drain the starting battery and keep both charged at the same time all the time...this is done via a solenoid a quick google search will explain it. Another good option, is if you have a dorm fridge you are wanting to use...plug it up outside on a warm day with a Kil-a-Watt energy usage monitor attached. See how much it actually uses on a hot day, as universal said, his is 4.5 amps.....20 hours...but also remember they won't run 24/7
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on May 25, 2014 12:54:46 GMT -8
They don't run 24/7 but the compressor kicks on and off frequently and that pulls a lot of power each time, just like start up. I know. I tried this last summer with just a battery that wasn't being charged while I was using it. It only took a few hours to drain the battery, and I had two. However, with the temp turned down to the coldest setting, the food stayed cold for quite some time without keeping it plugged. I'd start out with it cold and then halfway to my destination plug into the inverter for a while, then unplug which worked much better than keeping it plugged in continuously. Like a house fridge/freezer, if you don't open the door it stays cold for quite a while.
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Post by vikx on May 25, 2014 21:30:36 GMT -8
I love the fridge I have. I just wish the thermocouple and shutoff valve were still repairable. Parts can be found. What model # is it? Any photos? Also, the gas thermocouple might be replaceable. Sometimes, the local hardware store will have just the right size. I've found them. Or a Mom and Pop RV shop with lots of old parts... A shut off valve can be added. Put inline on the fridge gas line, it would turn all gas off. You might have to go to the back of the fridge to use it. Have to admit, I'm a bit confused. If the fridge is cooling properly, the rest can be fixed. I will search thru my parts for you. However, if the cooling is "iffy" at best, your cooling unit itself may be failing.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on May 26, 2014 7:49:15 GMT -8
I have an "ice box" and if I put a block of ice in there, it will keep things cool enough for several days. old school. that said I keep my meats etc...in a top flight ice chest that is designed to keep things cold for 4-7 days if packed correctly and not left open. If I were replacing my ice box I'd go with a dual fuel fridge that uses propane and shore power. Pretty pricey though, which is why I stay with my old school solution. Here's a bunch www.campingworld.com/category/compact-refrigerators/1325
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Post by bigbill on May 26, 2014 18:59:03 GMT -8
I know a guy that instead of running large gauge wire for 12 volt back to an inverter he has the inverter mounted under the hood of his truck and ran a 110 volt extension back to the trailer seems to work very well. He has a 15 amp breaker by the inverter for safety. This also gives him power when he isn't camping to run small tools.
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Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on May 27, 2014 19:13:21 GMT -8
It's a Dometic, 1963 model. I will get the model number tomorrow. It has the Klixon valve setup with the ceramic ring etc. I had the new rings etc. that I found in a drawer.
As I said earlier, the cooling unit gets the food down to 35 degrees and the freezer works well. It's just sporadic. My goal is to figure this out. I would love to save it, because it lasted 50 years and you'll be lucky to get 10 years out of a new Dometic.
Thanks for the input.
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