coloradoan
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1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by coloradoan on May 19, 2014 10:48:35 GMT -8
What is the process for painting when one doesn't want to PAINT on the z stripe, but have it be the aluminum all polished up? I am using Blue Magic for polishing my windows, but it says it leaves a silicone finish and I'm concerned if I use it for the z stripe it will keep the paint from adhering properly above and below. Any prep advice, proper sequence, etc would be awesome! I'm having someone else paint my Shasta, but they're newbies to trailer painting and I want to be sure we do it right.
Thanks!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on May 19, 2014 20:12:03 GMT -8
Lay the graphic design out with a marker.
Polish "past the marked strip" with a polisher using a bar of black emery first to remove the oxidation, then a bar of green aluminum to bring up the color. DO NOT mix compounds on the same polishing pad.
Tape the stripe using 3M plastic fineline striping tape "for a razor sharp edge".
Sand the surface on each side of the strip, use a two part epoxy primer, the top coat as desired.
Buy you supplies from specialty stores that sell automotive paint, and abrasives for detailing.
And, DO NOT leave any masking tape on your surface for "more than a day or two". Buy and use only 3M Blue tape for general "fill in" masking. Do not use "off brand" cheap tape. |
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coloradoan
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1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Z Stripe
May 19, 2014 22:02:33 GMT -8
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Post by coloradoan on May 19, 2014 22:02:33 GMT -8
Thanks for the detailed information, John. A week away from delivering Lucille to the painter and questions keep popping into my head. So grateful to this forum for being able to get such prompt, reliable answers so I can put my head on my pillow and sleep at night!
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 11, 2015 12:05:06 GMT -8
Lay the graphic design out with a marker.
Polish "past the marked strip" with a polisher using a bar of black emery first to remove the oxidation, then a bar of green aluminum to bring up the color. DO NOT mix compounds on the same polishing pad.
Tape the stripe using 3M plastic fineline striping tape "for a razor sharp edge".
Sand the surface on each side of the strip, use a two part epoxy primer, the top coat as desired.
Buy you supplies from specialty stores that sell automotive paint, and abrasives for detailing.
And, DO NOT leave any masking tape on your surface for "more than a day or two". Buy and use only 3M Blue tape for general "fill in" masking. Do not use "off brand" cheap tape. John, a question about an old post. Do you use a particular type of marker? I wonder how much of a mark is too much? Is this the green bar you mentioned? www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0805968Using this will eliminate the need for a polish/compound that might keep the paint from adhering? Any advice on using it? Do they make a 2" of this tape. I can't seem to find it. www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Plastic-Striping-Tape-Car/dp/B002MOETBSThanks. |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 11, 2015 19:24:42 GMT -8
John, a question about an old post. Do you use a particular type of marker? I wonder how much of a mark is too much? Is this the green bar you mentioned? www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0805968Using this will eliminate the need for a polish/compound that might keep the paint from adhering? Any advice on using it? Do they make a 2" of this tape. I can't seem to find it. www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Plastic-Striping-Tape-Car/dp/B002MOETBSThanks. Any kind of wax or grease pencil will work, you want something that will wipe off after it's taped. Your site reference is down, use any polishing product that will polish the skin to your satisfaction. After your done polishing, and taping your graphic, you HAVE TO SAND and PREP the surrounding surface for paint. In my case on my Mallard, I sanded the new polished aluminum with 320/400 grit on the areas to be epoxy primed, then painted the graphic color. I would use the 3M Plastic striping tape in 1/4" size to tape the graphic for straight lines and 1/8" for curved lines. Then just use the blue 3M tape to fill in the outside areas. The plastic tape is expensive, use the smaller sizes, and only for the demarcation edges. |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 11, 2015 20:13:30 GMT -8
Any kind of wax or grease pencil will work, you want something that will wipe off after it's taped. Your site reference is down, use any polishing product that will polish the skin to your satisfaction. After your done polishing, and taping your graphic, you HAVE TO SAND and PREP the surrounding surface for paint. In my case on my Mallard, I sanded the new polished aluminum with 320/400 grit on the areas to be epoxy primed, then painted the graphic color. I would use the 3M Plastic striping tape in 1/4" size to tape the graphic for straight lines and 1/8" for curved lines. Then just use the blue 3M tape to fill in the outside areas. The plastic tape is expensive, use the smaller sizes, and only for the demarcation edges. "I sanded the new polished aluminum with 320/400 grit on the areas to be epoxy primed..." I guess the trick is not to disturb the tape. Do you wet sand or dry? I noticed online that people do it either way. I've heard that any polish with a silicone element like Blue Magic often (even after cleaning carefully) causes the prime not to stick. The Black and green emery you recommend don't have these issues? Thanks again. |
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