jlr
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Post by jlr on May 4, 2014 16:43:21 GMT -8
Here are some pictures of the roof. I see some type of sealant material that appears to be applied to a couple of the seams and around the refrigerator vent and other vent. Forgive my ignorance but is it safe to get on the roof, I feel like it will collapse under a person's weight. How to you guys get on the roof. I thought maybe we could brace the inside with some temporary 2x4's or something. Forgive me but I have this imagine of it collapsing, I am sure I am being paranoid but wanted to ask. Also, how does the roof look? Any advice on how to efficiently remove the refrigerator vent and middle event would be appreciated.
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Post by universalexports on May 4, 2014 17:21:06 GMT -8
I really dont know how others have done it, but in my head I am envisioning something long enough that it reaches all the way across the trailer so the weight is distributed onto the walls, and solid enough it doesn't sag in the middle and dent your roof. maybe two 2x4's about 4 feet long running parallel with the walls with some 3/4 inch plywood between them. so your weight is distributed onto the walls.
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jlr
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Post by jlr on May 4, 2014 17:27:11 GMT -8
That is kind if what I was thinking with the2x4's. My husband weighs 230 and that seems like a lot of weight to be up on roof. We are trying to fix the trailer not damage it more.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on May 4, 2014 18:10:38 GMT -8
Invest in a couple ten-foot 2X6's, to lay across the span of the roof, and maybe a couple 2X4's that can be cut to two-ft lengths. Tying the spans together will help spread the pressure out. One should never ever put their elbow on the aluminum, let alone their whole body weight. I have walked on a roof of a 36' fifthwheel before, being careful to step on the rafters...but I would not do it again nor suggest anyone else try. My Dad always told me the biggest problem that any roof could have is someone walking on it.
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Post by bigbill on May 4, 2014 18:48:36 GMT -8
Snow load has been known to severely damage trailer roofs so think what a persons body weight could do. The load has to be supported over top of the roof. flat boards are fine clear up until you get to a domed rafter that is an inch or two high in the center. I personally try to work off of ladders reaching out to the center from both side when possible. If you have access to scaffolds one on each side with a bridge across the trailer would be ideal, if not the boards strong enough to support your weight spanning from one wall to the other is your next option.
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soup
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Post by soup on May 4, 2014 19:43:59 GMT -8
I use plywood across roof but I only weigh 180 and try to lay down spreading my weight out as much as possible. Yes also use 2x4's inside to support ceiling rafters from inside floor to ceiling.
Dicor self leveling lap seal around roof vents and stacks.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on May 4, 2014 19:47:39 GMT -8
I've not been "on top" of one trailer roof yet. Most of the trailers I work on won't even hold up the vent due to rot.
With a ten foot ladder, work from the side, it's not a problem.
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soup
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Post by soup on May 4, 2014 19:56:06 GMT -8
Funny, at the dealer I worked at we would always be on top of the roof for annual roof inspections. There are even ladders mounted to most of the rigs on the back to gain access. There has only been a hand full I've worked on where I haven't been on the roof. Usually not on a Shasta's 1" thick roof construction with rot though!
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Post by bigbill on May 5, 2014 5:51:29 GMT -8
Funny, at the dealer I worked at we would always be on top of the roof for annual roof inspections. There are even ladders mounted to most of the rigs on the back to gain access. There has only been a hand full I've worked on where I haven't been on the roof. Usually not on a Shasta's 1" thick roof construction with rot though! Soup you have more guts than me most of these old trailers the roof is so weak that I won't even lean on them for fear of tearing the aluminum skin. My own trailer I increased the ceiling beams to 3 1/2" at the center but the still aren't strong enough at the edges for me to trust them. Of course I am a lot fatter than you.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on May 5, 2014 15:49:30 GMT -8
JLR…. If you are concerned about weight, even when spanning from wall to wall with a 2X10 (there will still be some flexing with that), then you could create a makeshift scaffold with 2 ladders on either side of the trailer and let the 2X10 bear on those. Then keep moving the rig down the trailer as you do work in different places. Of course the ladders need to be taller than the trailer roof ;-) You could also put the 2X10 on blocks, spaced to the width of your trailer, so the blocks would rest on the walls and there would be no bearing on the roof at all from flexure. You're not being paranoid; you definitely don't want to walk or sit on the roofs of these old trailers.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 10, 2014 20:33:36 GMT -8
I have video showing how to do this.
Two pieces of two by four about 16 inches long. lay those on top of the curb on both sides where you want the 2x12 you are going to be resting your weight on. Then put a 2x12 across on top of both of the short two by fours. Align everything so the walls and curbing take the weight Don't overhang the two by fours more than an eighth of an inch. Use two of these set ups to kneel on and have somewhere to put your feet. Plan your moves so you aren't up there any longer than need be.
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