edog1973
Junior Member
Posts: 72 
Likes: 24
1961 Traveleze
Currently Offline
|
Post by edog1973 on May 3, 2014 7:00:13 GMT -8
I'm planning out my 12 volt system and and getting the list of supplies ready. I'll be rebuilding the system completely from scratch as the trailer is gutted. To make the job a little easier I'd like to find 2 conductor wire so I don't have to run individual strands for positive and negative. I've found this red/black speaker wire on Amazon that I think will. I know it's being sold as "speaker wire", but is there any reason why it would not work? |
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on May 3, 2014 7:13:09 GMT -8
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 575
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on May 3, 2014 10:04:53 GMT -8
Try to use a standard color code for the wiring in your trailer. Think about the poor guy fifty years from now that will be trouble shooting for an electrical problem. Just make it simple. If you start with the seven way plug "industry standard colors" and wire the rest of the trailer around those colors you will have a very logical system, and it will be easy to follow the circuits.
|
|
pirateslife
Active Member
Posts: 426
Likes: 137
1969 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by pirateslife on May 3, 2014 12:35:40 GMT -8
Individual strands actually isn't that bad...just throw some tape around them to hold them together....just be careful when you drill trough the top 1x to get for the side to the ceiling....dollar says you drill trough the roof lol. Don't feel bad when you it happens a lot
|
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on May 3, 2014 13:08:44 GMT -8
Make sure that you use the proper gauge wire, that is the most important thing as too light of a wire could burn your trailer down.
|
|
pirateslife
Active Member
Posts: 426
Likes: 137
1969 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by pirateslife on May 4, 2014 15:29:08 GMT -8
Yeah what bigbill said gauge overkill never hurt. 12 gauge isn't that much more and should carry most anything, especially if split into two circuits
|
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on May 4, 2014 15:36:35 GMT -8
Yes I like 12 ga on my 110 volt circuits and 16 ga. on my 12 volt circuits at least. Also brakes and refrigerators require heavier ga. wire usually at least 10 Ga.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 4, 2014 22:14:35 GMT -8
I've found that 14ga. is almost "too big" in tight areas. I try to use 14 but it can be a pain, especially in the tail light section where multiple connections are needed. I've gone to using a smaller ground and trying to crimp/solder wires to reduce light wiring bulk. The trailer circuits are manageable with 14ga if you're careful.
Have found the two strand wire (above) to be more than I want in size. Small strips of duct tape will tie the wires without having to drill larger holes.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on May 5, 2014 6:05:26 GMT -8
Check the wire size on the head lights of your car or truck and you will find that 16 ga will handle your tail/brake lights with no problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 5, 2014 22:15:18 GMT -8
Check the wire size on the head lights of your car or truck and you will find that 16 ga will handle your tail/brake lights with no problem. You're right BigBill. Unfortunately, I will be wiring 10 rolls of 14ga. before changing over. LOL. |
|
pirateslife
Active Member
Posts: 426
Likes: 137
1969 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by pirateslife on May 6, 2014 13:26:04 GMT -8
Check the wire size on the head lights of your car or truck and you will find that 16 ga will handle your tail/brake lights with no problem. Which brings up another point, notice how a lot of factory tow packages run 12 gauge for brakes? An 14 and less as you say for others. I have had it explained to me, and still don't understand why brakes are low amps but still have 10 gauge recommend. I know, the " surge " but 10 gauge is massive for around 16 amps on a dual axel and 8 on a single. But I still run 10ga for brakes, 14 ga on all running lights and 16 ga for all interior systems to be fed with 10 ga from tounge batteries. |
|
edog1973
Junior Member
Posts: 72
Likes: 24
1961 Traveleze
Currently Offline
|
Post by edog1973 on May 9, 2014 8:51:21 GMT -8
I've been searching for proper wire size information and can't seem to come to a good consensus. Just for an easy example lets say I have three 12 volt 40 watt lights I want to run from the battery. If they are all on that would draw 10 amps. The charts I'm looking at are based on total wire length including return to ground. This could easily top 25' for the 3 lights. This chart ( www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html) would recommend 16 gauge wire. However this chart (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html) says you need 10 gauge. Does anyone have a definitive reference for this? |
|
pirateslife
Active Member
Posts: 426
Likes: 137
1969 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by pirateslife on May 9, 2014 13:41:49 GMT -8
I am set up wit 1 single and 1 double 12 v light, and the 12 volt vent fan. I am going to run a 12 USB wall plate near the bunks. I split this off into two circuits running 16ga wire. This will lower the total amps per circuit . I am going to feed from the battery to my converter with 10 gauge, to carry the total load.
|
|
