SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 10, 2014 17:00:56 GMT -8
1. What did you do about the front where the skin hangs down and isn't really attached to anything? 2. First let me say that I'm going to add a city water connection on the front street side but my question is Where was the city water hook up originally? It had a cold faucet so the water had to come in from somewhere.
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Apr 10, 2014 17:06:20 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 10, 2014 17:14:36 GMT -8
Some of the early ones had the fresh water hookup run up through the floor. It would have hung under the streetside near the front corner, short run to the sink. If you engineer it right, you can run a downward run so that it will drain out without leaving anything in the line, subject to freezing.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 10, 2014 17:14:56 GMT -8
No hole for the water on the framing or skins. It seems to have come in from underneath at the sink, but there is no actual connection.
On the early Compacts, the skin hangs down below that board on the bottom and is attached to nothing except for where that little board hangs down between the A frame. I don't like that.
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Apr 10, 2014 17:18:18 GMT -8
That's the way mine is, either shasta or some through about 20 screws across it
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 10, 2014 17:24:25 GMT -8
Some of the early ones had the fresh water hookup run up through the floor. It would have hung under the streetside near the front corner, short run to the sink. If you engineer it right, you can run a downward run so that it will drain out without leaving anything in the line, subject to freezing. It appears to have come straight up though the floor to the sink.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 10, 2014 17:39:15 GMT -8
And one more, thought. I don't think I'm going to put my power inlet in the same place as the old one. I'm changing to to 30 amp and the old one is over my head, literally. I have a hard enough time connection it when it's not out of reach. I'm thinking about putting it where the water tank fill hole is since I won't have tanks back there.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 10, 2014 18:04:44 GMT -8
Without the tanks there will be plenty of room under the bench for the new breaker panel, and would make a fine spot to run in from outside, with a short run to hit the box. Sounds like a plan.....
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 10, 2014 19:08:04 GMT -8
Some of the early ones had the fresh water hookup run up through the floor. It would have hung under the streetside near the front corner, short run to the sink. If you engineer it right, you can run a downward run so that it will drain out without leaving anything in the line, subject to freezing. It appears to have come straight up though the floor to the sink. Yep, I remember an old hookup on the one I just bought through the floor but not directly under the sink. More like under the front of the closet. It just hung about three inches from the floor.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 10, 2014 19:13:35 GMT -8
This photo may help on the skin connection issue. If anyone is interested in photos of areas of my new (old) compact, I will take them in a few weeks when I pick it up. They told me "we did nothing to it" which is sort of a blessing.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 10, 2014 19:39:27 GMT -8
Yes, that's what it looks like. Seems like my skins hang down lower. But see where the row of screws is? Ok, that's the board that you can see in my pic. The skin hangs below that, over the metal frame, with nothing to keep it from flapping or bending. Yours is in amazingly good shape, btw.
I just thought maybe someone else has modified that quirk.
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Post by vikx on Apr 10, 2014 21:52:15 GMT -8
I add support boards as needed. It depends on the trailer, but you might have room to use one bys and have something to attach the skin to. On both the 57 1500s, the insulation was hanging in plain view. I put a piece of angled aluminum to better seal the area.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 11, 2014 6:11:05 GMT -8
Re: the front skin....I think you may be worried over very little. The Airflyte was built much the same, with a row of screws across the front. That many attaching screws are going to make that length of aluminum pretty rigid. Dragging it low enough to scrape, if you figure out how to, or throwing substantial rocks from the road are the only ways that it is likely to get damaged (bent). And so far as water...the exposed part of that piece are below the frame. The last time I checked, the second rule of plumbing is still "S4!t runs downhill..." Any water that could run from that particular strip, either from rain, leaks, or road spray, would run off without touching the frame... If that framework underneath still exists after 50+ years, then I would not be too concerned.
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pirateslife
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Post by pirateslife on Apr 11, 2014 12:50:51 GMT -8
"S4!t runs downhill..." Any water that could run from that particular strip, either form rain, leaks True dat! especially after replacing a sewer line today.
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soup
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Post by soup on Apr 11, 2014 15:07:41 GMT -8
I add support boards as needed. It depends on the trailer, but you might have room to use one bys and have something to attach the skin to. On both the 57 1500s, the insulation was hanging in plain view. I put a piece of angled aluminum to better seal the area. Even on the lowflytes the skin hangs a bit. Vikx is correct too. Stock Shastas also have a press braked piece of metal over the bottom stick wrapping to the underside of floor but still nothing attaching the last couple inches of skin.
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