Flat-Tire
Member
Posts: 31
Likes: 4
1965 Da-Vid
Currently Offline
|
Post by Flat-Tire on Mar 29, 2014 14:14:46 GMT -8
I'm getting close to spray time on the old skin. I have washed the aluminum with dish soap then plenty of lacquer thinner. The problem is that the paper towel will not come clean as I wipe with the thinner. Just more and more aluminum residue. I am hoping for a clean surface before I prime. Has anyone seen this happen?  |
|
cowcharge
1K Member
Posts: 1,003 
Likes: 328
Currently Offline
|
Post by cowcharge on Mar 29, 2014 14:33:03 GMT -8
Happens whenever you clean aluminum. You need to get the oxidation off, I don't think thinner alone will do it.
|
|
John Palmer
Leading Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 625
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Mar 29, 2014 19:52:14 GMT -8
If your wiping raw aluminum, that does not have any type of anodizing sealing it, it will never stop turning your wiping cloth BLACK. If the aluminum is sanded, it will be even worse.
The place to start is at your local auto body paint store. Tell them what your doing and they will sell you all of the correct products to properly prep and paint your trailer.
These products differ greatly by areas of the country due to air quality laws regulating VOC's. It would be very hard to discuss the topic on a national forum.
|
|
|
|
Post by schweetcruisers on Mar 29, 2014 21:17:09 GMT -8
Use Prep and etch, but you'll always get residue when cleaning aluminum
|
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Mar 30, 2014 6:09:25 GMT -8
John is right raw Aluminum oxidation is almost instant depending on conditions. so as he said contact your local supplier for the best products to use in your area.
|
|
restoguy
Member
Posts: 33
Likes: 8
Undetermined so far 1500 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by restoguy on Mar 30, 2014 9:32:11 GMT -8
You are supposed to use an etching solution to paint aluminum it is like a wipe on primer. It locks the oxidation immediately. You can use vinegar also but I would research it first.
|
|
John Palmer
Leading Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 625
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Mar 30, 2014 11:27:13 GMT -8
Here's the big picture on the topic of "how do I paint my trailer".
Your going to talk to 100 guys, and get 100 different "best ways" to do it. You will get many different home remedies for etching the skin.
The big issue is the "prep" items and quality top coat, and base coat materials are going to be a large $$$ investment. Couple that with the large number of labor hours you will spend with striping, prepping, and painting and no matter how you attack it, your dealing with a BIG expense and a lot of work.
The last thing you want to have occur is to have a "paint adhesion problem" come up after you have the costly paint sprayed down. The best advice you could consider on this topic is to consult the professional auto body paint store in your area. They will offer you advice on the products that are "allowed for use" in your local area based on VOC's. They will hand you MDS (material data sheets) that will spell out every step you need to take, and what the pit falls are if you don't follow the directions. You need to follow the MDS information "to the letter". Make sure you select a day to spray that falls within the dew point, humidity and temperature ranges given on the sheets.
Their "LOCAL INFORMATION" will be critical to your success on the paint job.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,882
Likes: 3,807
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Apr 4, 2014 7:06:00 GMT -8
Here's the big picture on the topic of "how do I paint my trailer". Your going to talk to 100 guys, and get 100 different "best ways" to do it. You will get many different home remedies for etching the skin. The big issue is the "prep" items and quality top coat, and base coat materials are going to be a large $$$ investment. Couple that with the large number of labor hours you will spend with striping, prepping, and painting and no matter how you attack it, your dealing with a BIG expense and a lot of work. The last thing you want to have occur is to have a "paint adhesion problem" come up after you have the costly paint sprayed down. The best advice you could consider on this topic is to consult the professional auto body paint store in your area. They will offer you advice on the products that are "allowed for use" in your local area based on VOC's. They will hand you MDS (material data sheets) that will spell out every step you need to take, and what the pit falls are if you don't follow the directions. You need to follow the MDS information "to the letter". Make sure you select a day to spray that falls within the dew point, humidity and temperature ranges given on the sheets. Their "LOCAL INFORMATION" will be critical to your success on the paint job. Best painting advice I have heard so far... Thanks John... |
|
