scoutandme
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1954 Shasta, 14F/SKY, VIN: C3426
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Post by scoutandme on Mar 1, 2014 11:20:06 GMT -8
Hello all, I am getting closer to prepping for paint. As you can see, the original paint is failing in patches. So here's my question: Should I chemical strip and prime ? b/c the old paint will keep failing regardless what's on top of it or Can I get away with sanding and feather in the old paint with the primer ? This seem way easier to me. Thoughts ?
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Post by bigbill on Mar 1, 2014 14:36:27 GMT -8
I would be afraid to spend my money trying to paint over top of the existing as it most likely would continue to lose its bond and then the new paint would fail leaving you a much bigger mess to remove. I personally do not like chemical removal if it was mine I would use a D/A and sand the old paint off leaving a good surface for the new primer and paint to adhere to.
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slider
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Post by slider on Mar 1, 2014 15:30:07 GMT -8
Try some Citristrip. You can get a small bottle at HD for $12 and try it out. "Paint" it on, wait about two hrs and pretty much scrub it off with a stiff brush. 2 applications and its down to the original aluminum with minimal effort. I've done a few sections of mine and that is what has worked for me. First I was scraping with a plastic scraper but doing twice with a brush is even easier.
I just got some last week and pretty amazed how well it works.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 1, 2014 18:42:49 GMT -8
If you use any type of stripper you have to make sure that it is totally removed from all cracks and crevices if not you will have paint failure. This is why many of the top classic car restorers have stopped using any type of chemicals. They were having problems over a short period of years with bubbles and chipping/flaking. Many have went to baking or sanding the paint off.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 1, 2014 20:17:04 GMT -8
It's got to "all come off", then sand, epoxy prime, then sand, then top coat paint.
You have many choices on how to remove the old paint, every one has it's own set of issues. If you use a chemical stripper, as Bill said, it's very important to get it neutralized before you start to prime. I think Bill wanted to say, "Baking Soda" blast as a good method of paint removal. But you also need to get that neutralized before the primer goes on.
Best place to start is at your local automotive paint dealer for his local advice.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 1, 2014 21:25:46 GMT -8
John I don't think any type of blasting is good on an alum trailer but if I was go to it would be with baking soda or walnut shells at a controlled air pressure. I was talking about baking automobiles in a large oven is becoming a very common way of removing paint but that method is not acceptable for a trailer as it would burn up. I would sand the paint off with a D/A then prime and paint from there. A 100 grit disk to start then clean it up with a 220. Next prime and finish. It will amaze you how fast the paint will come off leaving a very paintable surface. A trailer has a vast amount of places that are nearly impossible to remove chemicals from unless you removed all the siding, stripped it, neutralized it then reinstalled it ready for paint. I know people have done it but also many have had problems down the road that they never knew what caused them. Many manufactures won't stand behind there paint if installed over a stripped surface.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 1, 2014 23:09:20 GMT -8
Bill, We agree that for most of us home shop DIY's, sanding might be the "overall" safest and cost effective method. Looking at the original posted photo, it would appear to be smooth and have a minimal brake pattern in the metal. I'm not sure how well you could sand with a DA on some of the more detailed brake patterns.
It's new to me, I've not heard of a paint company that won't stand behind their paint if it's applied over a stripped surface. Most that I'm aware of "require the paint to be removed" if it's over a certain mill thickness.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 2, 2014 5:15:06 GMT -8
John I paid to have my Plymouth taken apart and painted this winter and I talked to four different quality shops that does restoration painting and they all said the same thing. They told me that if their is a problem near a seam the paint companies will balk at standing behind the products so I now have a complete set of pictures of it being sanded bare and repainted.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 2, 2014 10:56:36 GMT -8
Thanks Bill for the clarification, I understand your point.
If the paint manufacturer had a problem standing behind their paint, it was because the failure was caused from a "painter preparation problem" (not a clean surface), and not because it was stripped.
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scoutandme
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1954 Shasta, 14F/SKY, VIN: C3426
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Post by scoutandme on Mar 3, 2014 9:38:23 GMT -8
Thanks for the great feedback... Seems there's always pros & cons on all decisions.. some decisions bigger then others. I think I'll try both in spots and see what the level of effort I'll need to commit too. Cheers !
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Post by bigbill on Mar 3, 2014 9:54:21 GMT -8
That is what makes this hobby fun everybody can do as they please and very few wind up with anything worse than a do over.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 3, 2014 18:56:04 GMT -8
That is what makes this hobby fun everybody can do as they please and very few wind up with anything worse than a do over. Exactly correct!
And they are DIRT CHEAP to rebuild compared to rebuilding a car or truck. For under $12K "in parts" you can build a first class vintage trailer.
But it can get much more expensive if you need to pay someone's labor.
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 6, 2015 6:36:48 GMT -8
John I don't think any type of blasting is good on an alum trailer but if I was go to it would be with baking soda or walnut shells at a controlled air pressure. I was talking about baking automobiles in a large oven is becoming a very common way of removing paint but that method is not acceptable for a trailer as it would burn up. I would sand the paint off with a D/A then prime and paint from there. A 100 grit disk to start then clean it up with a 220. Next prime and finish. It will amaze you how fast the paint will come off leaving a very paintable surface. A trailer has a vast amount of places that are nearly impossible to remove chemicals from unless you removed all the siding, stripped it, neutralized it then reinstalled it ready for paint. I know people have done it but also many have had problems down the road that they never knew what caused them. Many manufactures won't stand behind there paint if installed over a stripped surface. Hi Bigbill....I have been reading all the painting and preping info and have a question for you? When you refer to D/A is that a disc sander? I am getting ready to start preping my 66 Aristocrat and the paint is extremely chaulky and oxidized. I really don't want to use a chemical stripper. I have a disc sander/polisher and was wondering if that can be used to take the paint off.
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Post by rogerthedodger on Aug 6, 2015 9:47:26 GMT -8
I think if the paint is peeling off, it's best to remove all the old paint and start over. If the old paint is chalky but not peeling, you can get a good base by sanding with 220 and paint. The old base is just as good a primer as stripping and priming. I painted my Airstream Argosy, sanding and painting, and just primed the bare aluminum. I painted it with Rustoleum boat paint, and it came out great. Just my $0.02. Roger
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 7, 2015 6:13:26 GMT -8
No peeling paint a all. Just chaulky and smooth. Do you hand sand with 220 or use a sanding power tool? I have a sander for autos that hooks up to my air compressor. I also have a palm sander and disc sander/polisher. I am using oil base paint x0. It is what the farmers ude to paint their tractors. I will be shooting it with auto sprayer attached to air.
I appreciate your recommendations.
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