Roof panels

I see two different issues.  One, is that a photo or two would greatly help get you a better answer to your question.  And two, the terminology used in discussing these topics is very important.  We all need to be on the same page when giving/receiving advice.  Rod is correct with his suggestions "if you're asking about getting the roof skin re-connected at the edges.  I took your question a completely different way.  My interpretation of your question was that you "unfolded the roof panel joining seams (ACME seams).  If that is correct, it's time to start thinking about a new roof panel.

I think a good place to start is to visit the Hemet Valley RV Siding's site and review the pictures showing the different styles of RV seams.  For example, most RV roof panels are made up of 48" aluminum strips placed crosswise.  They are joined together with what is called an ACME seam.  This is a "factory seam", it does not leak, and it will not come apart.  At least it will not come apart without permanent damage.

Another type of RV seam is called a "Lap Joint".  It is less common than an ACME seam.  You might get a lap joint apart without too much damage.  The issue is they used a urethane/butyl sealer between the pieces, and it's really stuck.  It helps to use a heat gun, but it's hard to keep a large area hot enough to pull it apart.  IMO, when working with a Lap Joint, do not take it apart, just remove the screws/brads/nails, and remove the entire section, do not separate the aluminum panels that are glued together.

Most Stick and Tin trailers use an "S-Lock" seam to join the sides. front. and back panels together.  It's not a structural seam, but at least it's easy to work with, and make repairs, and panel replacements.

The most common obstacle a new restorer runs into is not "unfolding the roof panel edges completely" before the panel is removed.  If the edges have any bend left in the edge, "they will tear" as soon as you move the skin or roll up the roof skin.

Please let us know what you're trying to da.

John Palmer

Agree with Vikx. And I think the seams you are talking about are Zfold seams. I experienced those on the 63 Traveleze front and rear skins and on the 59 Forester. You will never get a good seal again once disonnected as this seam is put together with a special machine. ACME seams are the most leak proof seams available. Hemet Valley RV and Siding makes new roofs using the ACME seams. Here's a short video showing how new roofs are made.

I think my issue is that the roof panels keep sagging as I try to join the panels.
I’m going to try and use double sided tape and a 1x1 board to keep it from sagging.
The lap joints look like a (U ) on both panels and they lock together.

Olympic Rivets are installed just like POP Rivets BUT HAVE NO HOLE to leak water. 

They look just like buck rivets after they are installed and cut.

The Butyl Tape goes between the panel sheets, not over the sheets.

The cheapest way to replace a roof panel is with the semi-trailer 104" .040" rolled aluminum available "locally" at any truck trailer repair shop.  It's in the $15 to $20 per linear foot range.  The real savings is that it can be "will called" locally saving the crating and truck shipping costs.

If you do not have access to an eight-foot metal brake to bend the "S" Locks, just run it one piece from front to back.  My first 1953 Aljoa 13' trailer was done that way 15 years ago, and not one person ever noticed it was done in one piece of aluminum.

John Palmer