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Post by Teachndad on Jun 17, 2024 5:19:41 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I have a question in regards to the raw opening for a steel wheel well. I had new wheel wells made and they were measured off the originals. Picture below shows new floor with new wheel wells.  How far should they be set back from the side wall? I assume that there needs to be room for the putty tape? Here is the wheel well raw opening.  Here is the wheel well dry fit into the raw opening. Red arrow points to the flange I refer to in my question below.   Click on image to magnify The flange protrudes from the floor edge about 1/16 as seen in the photo above. If we add putty tape to the edge when installing against the wall, then I can’t get my wall flush against the sill board, so in order to make the wheel well fit in the raw opening, I would have to enlarge the rear of the raw opening by cutting away material from the floor along the green line as seen in the photo below.  Do I need to make sure the raw opening is the same as the depth (orange line) of the wheel well plus the thickness of the putty tape? Is there an alternative to using the putty tape to seal the wheel well flange against the wall that wouldn’t require the thickness of the putty tape? Thanks, Rod |
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secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 17, 2024 7:02:45 GMT -8
naïve suggestion/ question:
could the wheel well be slid under the flooring?
yes; still use the putty - tape, but it would be covering the edge of the flooring material and potentially
slow down the eventual water infiltration.
Q: on metal assemblies in general, is it okay esthetically to use sound deadening - either mat or brush on?
i understand no one should be in the cabin while in-transit, but having used it in other situations,
the stuff does work to retard background noise while stationary.
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Post by vikx on Jun 17, 2024 11:51:24 GMT -8
I copied what was original to the each trailer; under or on top of the flooring. The outside curving flange is different than mine have been. Mine had a piece of metal to match the skin. In other words, a flat curved piece about 10" down on the outside. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/53798565655/in/dateposted-public/" title="003 j Subfloor"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53798565655_d66296a95f_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="003 j Subfloor"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> Putty each flange and attach securely. I agree with secharles about some sort of coating also. Coat the inside of the wheel well. As you build the wall, the portion fitted to the wheel well (will be exposed) should be coated as well. Black Beauty fence paint will work or any goopy coating. There are different ways of trimming things. Trim the wheel well, trim a circle out of the wall and or trim the floor to fit. 1/16" of an inch isn't much... |
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Post by Teachndad on Jun 18, 2024 5:29:35 GMT -8
naïve suggestion/ question: could the wheel well be slid under the flooring? yes; still use the putty - tape, but it would be covering the edge of the flooring material and potentially slow down the eventual water infiltration. Q: on metal assemblies in general, is it okay esthetically to use sound deadening - either mat or brush on? i understand no one should be in the cabin while in-transit, but having used it in other situations, the stuff does work to retard background noise while stationary. Some trailers were made with the wheel wells attached under the floor and some above like the Westerner. I don't think there is an advantage to either one. In my situtaion, it could have been done, but I am building it as it was originally built. As far as the sound deadening material, I don't think anyone has ever brought that up on the board. An insulated trailer does a fairly good job of insulating you when you are inside from noise. Having come from a tent trailer with only a canvas cover, it's like night and day to be in a hard sided trailer. Some people place Reflectix around their wheel wells to insulate from the heat and cold. I imagine that might have some sound deadening properties too. But you will need to leave a window ajar to get some air in the trailer or you can get condensation running down the walls. The sound comes in only slightly through that ceiling vent or a gapped window. The cheap way to insulate from sound is a good pair of earplugs. This from a very sensitive sleeper. Cheers, Rod |
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secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 18, 2024 9:27:56 GMT -8
Dyna-mat lite did magical things to the GMC tin box i drove for 6 years. full coverage is neither recommended
nor warranted for dramatic results.
the more i read about metal siding over frame construction, i would be tempted to adhere strips of sound
deadener to the panels' unsupported sections just to retard the drumming in a rainstorm. any additional
effects would only enhance its value.
i'm confident the car stereo guys could chime in with extolled virtues.
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Post by vikx on Jun 18, 2024 10:17:00 GMT -8
I like wheel well on top of the floor. My Loliner was attached underneath and the attachment had failed. They were sagging at least an inch. I had to reinforce the floor and bolt them "up".
NOTE: some were in between floor layers or on top of wood framing, which is stronger than under...
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