secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 17, 2024 1:39:57 GMT -8
Q: why do trailers use wire nuts for 110v connections?
is there no crimp connector rated for 110v?
automotive & marine applications use crimp connectors to better withstand vibration.
(and perhaps other reasons which i am unaware)
thanks
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 17, 2024 9:28:44 GMT -8
Welcome to VTT.
If you are going to ask a million questions, maybe at least let us know if your asking about AC (shore power) or DC (battery power). Be specific.
Answers only help (you and others) if they address a specific question.
For example, in a general answer it could be said that stranded wire is always best practice in any moving vehicle application. It would also be best to use crip connectors, and a dielectric grease on all connections. But we are not actually building off road vehicles subject to extreme vibrations, off-shore boats subject to vibrations and salt corrosion, or high speeds like on a race car/motorcycle, etc.
In the sleepy world of vintage trailers, always use (proper gauge) stranded wire in your DC Battery systems. It's the most common type of wire and fuse panels you will find at any auto parts store, or specialty electronics store. Crimp connectors, and dielectric grease is the preferred connector. Just make certain that you use a quality wire crimper, not a cheap one. But some here at VTT will insist on using twist wire caps. There's lots of different qualities of stranded wire, but most of the pricier stuff is made for special applications, like high heat in an engine compartment, of for grease and oil. John's Rule, no solid core 14ga wire on your DC systems.
There's nothing wrong with running conduit and pulling individual stranded AC wires. I do not do it. I use the proper wire gauge 14/12/10 Romex for my AC circuits. I make sure that every hole run through a metal stud has a proper plastic gromet bushing. Every Romex wire is properly supported and cannot easily flex with vehicle vibration. I have never had a broken Romex wire, I tow my trailers thousands of miles every year. I know where my past built trailers are and stay in touch with past owners of my trailers, the Romex solid core wire, properly installed will not give you any problems. It's been used in trailers since the 1940's to my knowledge.
That said, please use the most current national wiring codes when rebuilding your trailer. Just because a manufacturer got away with twisting and taping wires with friction tape in 1950 does not mean it's a good idea today. Wire your trailer with the idea that the new 'someday" owner will have a coffee pot on, a Microwave turn on, a hair dryer on, and the converter will kick on to recharge the battery. You have to plan the system to work in a worse case example. Today, we use boxes for the electrical connections. John's Rule, Never, NEVER splice a wire between two points. It has to be solid all the way, NO SPLICES.
Ask away.
John Palmer
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secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 17, 2024 17:32:06 GMT -8
"If you are going to ask a million questions, maybe at least let us know if your asking about AC (shore power) or DC (battery power). Be specific." specifically, how do i extract my cursor from the quotation box? oh; and i assumed the "110v connections" was specific to my quandary. i didn't realize 110v could be construed as a DC circuit. and would there not be adhesive shrink tubing to strengthen the crimp connectors or is that too much overkill?
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Post by Teachndad on Jun 18, 2024 6:08:29 GMT -8
The best way to get out of the quotation box is to press the escape key or click on your back arrow on your internet browser. Then just start over. It' easy to get stuck in the quotation box. A bit annoying, but it happens to all of us from time to time.
As to the AC or DC, most vintage trailers in the 40's and 50s didn't come with a battery in it, so if you wanted lights, you pulled up at your trailer park and connected to an extension cord attached to a post providing electricity. This is the AC that John mentioned in his post. You plugged in the extension cord into the receptical in the side of your trailer. That's called shore power, the term probably taken from the boating world when you come into your dock and need electricity. The wiring is like whats in a house.
But, then technology comes along and people want to "dry camp" or boondock which means you would be camping without shore power out in the "boonies". Your power has to come from somewhere, so someone figured out you could bring it with you with a battery. Thus wiring was set up in trailers to utilize power for low voltage lights from the battery, that would be DC or a 12 volt system that Vikx mentioned in one of your other questions. You can't run much on battery power. If you have a battery operated fridge, they don't run more than a day or less before they drain the battery. Hence the use of low voltage lights in the trailer.
Solar power cells come along as technology advances and now you have a charging system to contend with that will charge your battery or batteries depending on your need as long as you are getting sunlight.
Youtube is full of videos on the RV basics of electricity. That will fill answer a lot of questions you might have with the AC/DC systems.
Rod
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secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 18, 2024 9:32:37 GMT -8
The best way to get out of the quotation box is to press the escape key or click on your back arrow on your internet browser. hmmm........ neither of those tricks worked. maybe it's a "setting" in my machine.
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Post by vikx on Jun 18, 2024 10:23:57 GMT -8
Look below to the "post quick reply" box. Write your message and then click post post quick reply. You can go advanced in the same box if you need more controls.
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Post by vikx on Jun 18, 2024 10:28:03 GMT -8
I have always used wing nuts for my 120 wire connections. They must be tight, of course. Crimping solid wire isn't as secure. Yes, there are other connectors for 120 systems, do some research. I'm thinking some wouldn't last as well as wing nuts.
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secharles
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Post by secharles on Jun 18, 2024 13:20:37 GMT -8
Look below to the "post quick reply" box. Write your message and then click post post quick reply. You can go advanced . . . . the conundrum lies in modifying a quote. i've always tried to quote only the part specific to my response. now, i am going to attempt to modify the original quote, and see if i can escape! oh; now this time it worked. #1. quoted first #2. added my text outside of quote box #3. jump into quote box #4. modify quoted text #5. jump out and add more of my text. whew! that was easy if i can only remember how i did it again. thanks for the encouragement.
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