tpcm5000
Active Member
Posts: 100
Likes: 55
Yellowstone 1966
Currently Offline
|
Post by tpcm5000 on Jun 4, 2024 5:55:09 GMT -8
Hi, I have my Girard hot water heater in place and struggling to get the hot water heater frame to draw up flush with the skin. I've thought through a few options, but wondering if adding a 'crown' like we do for fantastic fan framing will do the trick. So maybe .25" or .5" thick shims between the framing and the skin so the opening and skin protrude some, then re-do the screws, now going through the hot water framing, then the skin, then the crown, and then the framing. How does this sound to folks and does .25" sound thick enough or should I go with .5"? Thanks!  hotwater by Tom Myers, on Flickr |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 4, 2024 13:12:47 GMT -8
Are your mounting screws going into wood framing? If not, you may have to add framing to secure the screws. I'm not sure adding a shim(s) is the answer here. Not sure what the "crown" is?
Could the heater be a little bit to far outward? In other words, would moving the heater into the trailer allow the frame to fit flush? Or: your idea of shimming might help...
Once you are sure the heater is in the correct position and the back framing will support the screws, the outer frame should snug up tight. It looks to me as if something is holding the frame "out".
Also, when you putty, add extra to the dips in the skin. You will have extra to trim but there will be no gaps.
I hope this helps. Hang in there-these little glitches are fun to solve!
|
|
tpcm5000
Active Member
Posts: 100
Likes: 55
Yellowstone 1966
Currently Offline
|
Post by tpcm5000 on Jun 5, 2024 4:49:06 GMT -8
It is a little snug in there, but I can move the unit inward without any problems. I do have framing around the unit but I will double check that. Could be I have some soft wood in places. What I meant by crown was something like this:  vent shim by Tom Myers, on Flickr Using the same principle, maybe even just .25" stock, the skin would protrude some just around the unit, picking up any slack in the skin, and provide another layer of substrate for the screws to grab. |
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Jun 5, 2024 5:26:55 GMT -8
Looking at the photograph of the mounted heater cabinet door, is the skin below the door opening slanted and angling outward? It doesn't seem like it's flat like the rest of the skin.
If it is, then that might be part of the issue.
Rod
|
|
newin62
Active Member
Posts: 182
Likes: 150
1962 Shasta Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by newin62 on Jun 5, 2024 11:50:19 GMT -8
I have the same heater and the cover fits extremely tight over the siding. You must have something in the way preventing the heater with the flange mounted from sliding all the way in. Perhaps the screws that attach the cover to the heater body. My framing opening was tight so I had to notch out the wood framing a little so those screws would pass through and allow the bottom of the heater to rest flat on the support beneath it.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 5, 2024 11:51:26 GMT -8
That's MY "crown", LOL! (think this was the 64 Cardinal)
I would move the heater body in, and fit the flange on it to be sure it will be flush with the skin. Checking the framing is a good idea, that needs to be sound. Since you've already driven some screws, you might have to glue picks in the holes to insure a good screw grip.
A skinny crown might help if you're not satisfied with the flush fit. Have fun.
|
|
tpcm5000
Active Member
Posts: 100
Likes: 55
Yellowstone 1966
Currently Offline
|
Post by tpcm5000 on Jun 5, 2024 13:02:49 GMT -8
Of course it is your crown Vik. My publisher insists I only reference the most reputable of sources!  Thanks all for the ideas, I'll get it right. |
|
