char
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Post by char on Mar 17, 2024 19:35:16 GMT -8
Hi, I just bought this 1978 komfort trailer to live in. I'm new to this website and hoping maybe someone can help me figure out what material my roof is so that I can clean and reseal it with the right products.
Also can someone explain to me what the textured (bumpy pattern) parts are and what the goopy dried frosting parts are?
Thanks!!
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Mar 17, 2024 22:55:24 GMT -8
Aluminum roof with aged goop sealer. Usually this means it started leaking a long time ago. Removing the sealer can be done but it is a tough job especially when it's raining a lot and you're living in it out in the open.
You mentioned in another post that you bought it recently to live in. Short-term with no towing involved? I might (people will strongly disagree) clean the roof well and use a roof sealer. This will make the roof worthless long-term but may stop the water.
Hope to live in it long-term and tow long distances, you have a much bigger job on your hands.
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char
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Post by char on Mar 18, 2024 7:16:57 GMT -8
thanks,
i suspected it was aluminum too but how can you tell that it's a sealer and not a rubber/vinyl coating on top? i'm completely new to this but some other people looked at the photos and suggested it was vinyl or rubber.
and i'm living in it full-time longterm in the northwest US where we have extremely wet rainy winters. I will be towing it, not that often but at least twice a year, and living in it for several months at a time at one spot.
why would the roof sealer make it worthless longterm?
my plan is to build a wooden "second roof" frame on top of the roof, and then harness a tarp to that. not sure if i still should clean and reseal the roof as well but was planning too since there's just so much rain here, it's like every day nonstop for months.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 18, 2024 19:06:51 GMT -8
Your roof did not just start leaking. The evidence is shown by the dried and cracking roof goop the previous owner already used. It has failed again, and likely never worked even while it was still fresh.
You will find extensive wood framing rot in the roof and walls when you remove the exterior aluminum skin and/or roof to make any repairs. This type of trailer construction (stick and tin) is repaired from the outside. The cost to just replace the aluminum roof will exceed the trailer value. I would estimate the cost of materials to replace the roof skin with an RV type roof aluminum to be over $1K "material and shipping only" no labor. You could maybe cut the material cost in half by using the .040" 103" wide Semi Trailer aluminum roof material available locally in most larger metro areas. It's still a lot of work, and you will not know how much wood rot you have until it's torn apart. Cleaning the roof goop off of your existing "quilted aluminum" roof skin is a huge job, that I would not wish on anyone.
That said, I would not fix the roof if it were my trailer. I like your idea of building a carport style second roof over the trailer. Make the over hangs about 18" and it should stay dry. Your "wall leaks" are coming down from above.
There's no cheap, easy fix to this issue.
John Palmer
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Mar 18, 2024 22:12:32 GMT -8
why would the roof sealer make it worthless longterm? my plan is to build a wooden "second roof" The more sealer, goop, caulk you put on it, the harder it will be to deal with later. I agree with John, the second roof idea seems best. And you will have rotted framing so towing may not be safe. If this were a classic 50s ham you could expect to recoup money spent repairing it, but this camper (year) you want to be careful not to spend too much on. |
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Post by vikx on Mar 19, 2024 11:53:10 GMT -8
No amount of roof goop will seal this for long. You can see how the original goop is cracked. That allows water to seep under and rot the aluminum.
Sealants can be any material: plasticized, rubber, etc. They don't work.
Your tarp will prevent current leaks. Tie it down well because of the wind.
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