dkelley
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Post by dkelley on Mar 9, 2024 16:01:07 GMT -8
I'm in the thick of a total teardown/rebuild of my Trotwood Lark. I'm wondering about the clearance of the axel. Does this look right?  IMG_0933 by David Kelley, on Flickr  IMG_0936 by David Kelley, on Flickr  IMG_0938 by David Kelley, on Flickr If this was a boat trailer, I'd probably mount the springs on top of the axel to get more clearance but I think these wheels want to stay boxed into the wheel wells, right?  IMG_8519 by David Kelley, on Flickr |
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jester76
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1954 Aljoa sportsman
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Post by jester76 on Mar 9, 2024 20:24:53 GMT -8
That sounds right. Not only for the look, but I'd be leary about changing the center of gravity and make it handle less.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 9, 2024 20:52:15 GMT -8
Does it look right.........NO. Is it normal..........Yes.
Your first photo shows the problem perfectly. You have identified an age-old trailer design problem. What you are seeing is called tire scrub line. Professional engineers would never build a suspension system on any vehicle where the suspension would rub the ground "first" when a tire goes flat.
That said, many different brand trailers built as far back as the 1940's had this tire scrub line flaw. You will find old trailers that had factory installed skid plates mounted below the spring to allow you to at least safely drag your disabled trailer off the highway before the pavement grinds off the U-Bolts and bolt nuts. It's just a bad design but is found on many vintage trailers. Even Spartans are guilty of this flaw, and they were built next to Spartan Airplanes. Spartans had the skid bars as standard equipment with 4" drop axles.
In defense of the design, you have to remember that 16" wheels with tall and narrow tire profiles were still in common everyday use in the 1950's. Putting "todays" smaller diameter wheels with low profile tires makes the tire scrub problem even worse. In a perfect world a 2" drop axle would have been a better choice. Replacement axles today come in various weight ratings, but sadly I have only seen "0" (straight), and 4" drop axles. If it were mine, I would take an old spring leaf of the same width and bend your own skid bars. Just heat them up red and bend away.
It looks like your U-Bolts are spaced out away from your springs, they should be snug against the spring. This would require different drilled plates, and you might need a little longer U-Bolts if you install the skid bars.
Good luck with your build.
John Palmer
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 9, 2024 21:00:50 GMT -8
That sounds right. Not only for the look, but I'd be leary about changing the center of gravity and make it handle less. If the single axle trailer has 15% of the total trailer weight "on the tongue", it will tow like an arrow. Tandem axle trailers only need 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue. You need to be careful when adding fresh/grey/black tanks on a single axle trailer because the center balance point changes quickly as you move water at 8# gallon. John Palmer |
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dkelley
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Post by dkelley on Mar 10, 2024 5:34:38 GMT -8
Thanks for the very thorough and helpful responses.
-David
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 10, 2024 8:33:56 GMT -8
David, This is what I did on my '67/3 Shasta Compact. Moved the axle to under the springs. I left the original axle perch in case I don't like how it looks / handles I can put it back.  It raised the frame height around 4 1/2". The axle is one that I cut down to fit the frame. The original axles spindle threads where buggered up on one side to I trashed it. Would've had to widen it anyway since a stretched the frame width out by 4 1/2" so we could fit a queen size length mattress in it sideways. Gee your frame looks familiar   It's just a thought, didn't way it was a good one, Whitney |
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dkelley
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Post by dkelley on Mar 10, 2024 9:37:45 GMT -8
Whitney, that's what I was thinking of doing (and now I'm considering it again). Have you rebuild the trailer and had a chance to try it with the new height?
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Mar 11, 2024 3:51:00 GMT -8
Whitney, that's what I was thinking of doing (and now I'm considering it again). Have you rebuild the trailer and had a chance to try it with the new height? What year is your Trotwood? My 1957 Trotwood is very different. I have no wheel well openings. My sides are completely flat at the wheels. Also, I don’t have a full axle. There are two axles that are held in with a woodruff key and a wire. I have looked at a couple other Trottwoods and they are the same as mine. Are you positive that your camper is on its original frame? I will post a couple of photos of my axles later today. |
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dkelley
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Post by dkelley on Mar 11, 2024 16:21:01 GMT -8
The registration from a previous owner says 1955 but I'm not sure it's that old. I am sure it's the original frame. I look forward to seeing photos of your rig.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 13, 2024 17:23:49 GMT -8
Whitney, that's what I was thinking of doing (and now I'm considering it again). Have you rebuild the trailer and had a chance to try it with the new height? No, not yet.  Unfortunately, this is all I have accomplished so far... |
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Mar 13, 2024 17:26:02 GMT -8
Oopsie, missed a spot or two when I was painting the black didn't I?  |
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Mar 16, 2024 3:24:36 GMT -8
Worse. The u bolt plates are not made right, there's no vertical reinforcement. You can see they are bending already.
They also appear to be too wide for the springs. The bolts should be sung to the sides of the leaves. Ideally the nuts would overlap the spring.
The problem here is that you can't get things tight enough. This will constantly loosen up and rattle apart.
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Mar 16, 2024 7:11:53 GMT -8
Worse. The u bolt plates are not made right, there's no vertical reinforcement. You can see they are bending already. They also appear to be too wide for the springs. The bolts should be sung to the sides of the leaves. Ideally the nuts would overlap the spring. The problem here is that you can't get things tight enough. This will constantly loosen up and rattle apart. Here are some photos of my 57 Trottwood axle. They have a half spring and a shaft that goes into an axle tube with bearings and a key and wire. |
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 16, 2024 11:14:33 GMT -8
That is a candidate for a new conventional axle assembly. About $700 ..........Axle, hubs, brakes, springs, hardware. Sleep well at night and tow without thinking "when will it break"? Just my observation.
John Palmer
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Mar 17, 2024 4:24:17 GMT -8
Wow, quarter elliptical springs and independent suspension! Fancy
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