newin62
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by newin62 on Jan 8, 2023 4:01:18 GMT -8
Hi folks
I'm getting ready to install the new plastic laminate in my Shasta Airflyte. The original laminate was quite thick (about 1/8") and was used without any backing for the sliding doors over the dinette. I will need to glue the new thinner laminate to something that is rigid enough not to warp but thin enough to fit in the slots in that support the doors. I rebuilt the cabinet with the slots identical in size to the original without thinking of how the new doors would fit into the slots. I could use some 1//8" birch plywood but I'm afraid it will warp.
Has anyone tried this successfully with plywood or have any suggestions for a suitable laminate backer that won't warp in this situation?
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Post by vikx on Jan 8, 2023 12:42:30 GMT -8
You could glue another piece of laminate to the original... Or use the 1/8 ply and sand the top and bottom a little thinner...
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jan 8, 2023 21:55:06 GMT -8
I used 1/8” birch and it didn’t warp.
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newin62
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by newin62 on Jan 9, 2023 2:14:37 GMT -8
Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll go with 1/8" plywood for the backing. Unfortunately, none of my leftover birch plywood is perfectly flat. I did find a local supplier that sells some nice 1/8" Baltic birch in 5'x5' sheets for only $46.30 + tax!
In for a penny, in for a pound.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Jan 22, 2023 10:33:05 GMT -8
To stabilize the plywood, you can laminate both sides, if that doesn't make it too thick
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newin62
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by newin62 on Jan 22, 2023 19:48:20 GMT -8
To stabilize the plywood, you can laminate both sides, if that doesn't make it too thick The slots I cut in tracks are 3/16" so double laminating will probably end up being too thick. I'll try with the 1/8" baltic birch and see how the goes. I did get started on the counter top laminate but I'm having difficulty getting the aluminum edge trim off the old dinette table without damaging it. The nails are seated so tightley I can't pry them out like I did on the kitchen counter. I'm thinking I'll drill a hole through the table top beside each nail and then cut the nail with a jig saw as close as possible to the table edge. I want to reuse all of the original aluminum edging on the counter top and the dinette table because it is impossible to find those extrusions here in Ontario.  Counter top by NEWIN62, on Flickr |
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 5, 2023 6:07:06 GMT -8
I read in another thread that you were able to reuse the trim. How did you get it off without distorting it?
BTW, the cabinets are looking grand.
Cheers,
Rod
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newin62
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1962 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by newin62 on Feb 5, 2023 7:58:10 GMT -8
I read in another thread that you were able to reuse the trim. How did you get it off without distorting it? Hi Rod, I drilled a 3/8" hole right through the top of the old laminate and plywood on either side of each twisty nail, as close to the trim as possible without touching it. I then used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade to cut out the small piece of wood between the holes which also cut the nail off right behind the trim. I then used a small screwdriver to push out what was left of the nail from behind which made the nail heads protrude enough to grab them with pliers. The trim then just falls off without any damage. The old plywood was ruined but I needed to replace it anyway with thicker plywood because the old laminate was over 1/8" thick and the new laminate is much thinner. I then used the old laminate as a router template to copy the curves around the table corners and the opening for the sink. Peter |
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 7, 2023 6:38:55 GMT -8
Peter,
That's Brilliant!
Rod
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