Post by vikx on Aug 16, 2022 11:52:20 GMT -8
Hi all, I am thinking of including the blurb below in one of my books. SO MANY folks don't realize what tow capacity weight means and that trailer weight is important. Please add comments concerning weight and tow vehicles that I may have missed... Thanks.
Towing Weight and your Vehicle, Safety First
In EVERY case, weigh the trailer before purchase. There are many places to do this; scrap yards, feed stores, truck weigh stations, etc. Know what the actual weight is.
A minimum of 5000 lbs vehicle tow capacity is recommended for vintage trailer towing. This gives ample control when towing and braking. Most vintage trailers are around 2000 pounds. Longer wheelbase vehicles are more stable on the road. There is also a difference in backing the trailer. A short wheelbase can be a bit squirrely; something to keep in mind.
Towing capacity isn’t everything! Many vintage trailer aficionados look at a vehicle’s tow capacity and decide they can tow 100% of that. This is simply not true; you have to add all the camping gear, people, the dog, full propane and water tanks to that number.. Let’s say 2 adults are 350lbs, 3 kids another 150, camping gear, food and ice 200, tanks and battery 100; that’s 800 right there. Oops, forgot the dog: 50 pounds. So in reality, that 2000 pound trailer easily becomes almost 3000 pounds. Not much wiggle room with a 3500 lb limit.
A good estimate of a safe tow weight of your trailer would be HALF of the vehicle listed tow capacity. Some cars are rated much higher with FACTORY equipment than with an aftermarket hitch installation. Be sure to read the owner’s manual for exact specifications and know your vehicle’s tow capacity as equipped.
3500 tow capacity = 1750 trailer weight. This allows for some camping gear and people.
5000 tow capacity = 2500 trailer weight or heavier camping gear and more people.
Don’t forget you have to STOP what you are towing. Part of the factory listed tow capacity for a vehicle includes things like better brakes, a bigger radiator, transmission cooler, updated motor and tranny, different suspension and anti-sway capabilities. The brakes are rated to stop the listed load. The listed tow capacity often includes a required brake controller and a trailer WITH BRAKES which many vintage trailers do not have.
There are a few things that can improve your towing experience. A sway bar really helps on freeways. Big semis tend to blow your trailer sideways and the sway bar helps prevent this. A weight distribution system can level the tow vehicle and load. The front wheels will have more grip and the trailer and car act as one. A sway bar is usually used with the weight distribution system.
NOTE: DO NOT BACK UP WITH THE SWAY BAR connected. Some WDS also require disconnection when backing. Read your owner’s manual.
Personal Experience: my current vehicle is a 2020 Chrysler Pacifica van, rated at 3500 lbs tow capacity. It has the factory installed tow package with a class III hitch.. I use raised hitch equipment to put the ball at safe height for my trailer. The engine is a V6 with computer upgrades for towing. Yes, it is greedy on gas. With the long wheelbase and a fairly light trailer, it tows very well. However, with front wheel drive, I experienced the front wheels slipping when going up a short wet driveway. I would not recommend front wheel drive for ANY tow vehicle as there is not enough front weight to provide good traction on hilly roads or in wet weather.
Oddly enough, when a 2020 Pacifica van does not have the factory tow package, it’s capacity is reduced to 1500 lbs! Be sure of your specific vehicle equipment and tow accordingly.. There are many vehicles that are not recommended for towing. The owner’s manual will state something like, “towing not recommended” or similar. Yes, you can buy a hitch, no, it’s probably not safe to tow with it.
More idiosyncrasies:
Some Subaru Outbacks can not use a weight distribution system. Per our local Subaru mechanic: The back doors pop open… how disconcerting! (Outback rated at 2700 lbs tow capacity) Most vintage trailers should not be towed by an Outback.
4 cylinder motors are not recommended for towing.
Towing Weight and your Vehicle, Safety First
In EVERY case, weigh the trailer before purchase. There are many places to do this; scrap yards, feed stores, truck weigh stations, etc. Know what the actual weight is.
A minimum of 5000 lbs vehicle tow capacity is recommended for vintage trailer towing. This gives ample control when towing and braking. Most vintage trailers are around 2000 pounds. Longer wheelbase vehicles are more stable on the road. There is also a difference in backing the trailer. A short wheelbase can be a bit squirrely; something to keep in mind.
Towing capacity isn’t everything! Many vintage trailer aficionados look at a vehicle’s tow capacity and decide they can tow 100% of that. This is simply not true; you have to add all the camping gear, people, the dog, full propane and water tanks to that number.. Let’s say 2 adults are 350lbs, 3 kids another 150, camping gear, food and ice 200, tanks and battery 100; that’s 800 right there. Oops, forgot the dog: 50 pounds. So in reality, that 2000 pound trailer easily becomes almost 3000 pounds. Not much wiggle room with a 3500 lb limit.
A good estimate of a safe tow weight of your trailer would be HALF of the vehicle listed tow capacity. Some cars are rated much higher with FACTORY equipment than with an aftermarket hitch installation. Be sure to read the owner’s manual for exact specifications and know your vehicle’s tow capacity as equipped.
3500 tow capacity = 1750 trailer weight. This allows for some camping gear and people.
5000 tow capacity = 2500 trailer weight or heavier camping gear and more people.
Don’t forget you have to STOP what you are towing. Part of the factory listed tow capacity for a vehicle includes things like better brakes, a bigger radiator, transmission cooler, updated motor and tranny, different suspension and anti-sway capabilities. The brakes are rated to stop the listed load. The listed tow capacity often includes a required brake controller and a trailer WITH BRAKES which many vintage trailers do not have.
There are a few things that can improve your towing experience. A sway bar really helps on freeways. Big semis tend to blow your trailer sideways and the sway bar helps prevent this. A weight distribution system can level the tow vehicle and load. The front wheels will have more grip and the trailer and car act as one. A sway bar is usually used with the weight distribution system.
NOTE: DO NOT BACK UP WITH THE SWAY BAR connected. Some WDS also require disconnection when backing. Read your owner’s manual.
Personal Experience: my current vehicle is a 2020 Chrysler Pacifica van, rated at 3500 lbs tow capacity. It has the factory installed tow package with a class III hitch.. I use raised hitch equipment to put the ball at safe height for my trailer. The engine is a V6 with computer upgrades for towing. Yes, it is greedy on gas. With the long wheelbase and a fairly light trailer, it tows very well. However, with front wheel drive, I experienced the front wheels slipping when going up a short wet driveway. I would not recommend front wheel drive for ANY tow vehicle as there is not enough front weight to provide good traction on hilly roads or in wet weather.
Oddly enough, when a 2020 Pacifica van does not have the factory tow package, it’s capacity is reduced to 1500 lbs! Be sure of your specific vehicle equipment and tow accordingly.. There are many vehicles that are not recommended for towing. The owner’s manual will state something like, “towing not recommended” or similar. Yes, you can buy a hitch, no, it’s probably not safe to tow with it.
More idiosyncrasies:
Some Subaru Outbacks can not use a weight distribution system. Per our local Subaru mechanic: The back doors pop open… how disconcerting! (Outback rated at 2700 lbs tow capacity) Most vintage trailers should not be towed by an Outback.
4 cylinder motors are not recommended for towing.