Please view my wiring diagram, looks good?

Hi Serf, I am going to try and help.

Your diagram is close. Yes add grounds, cleanly bolted to the trailer frame. You will need a separate breaker box if using the converter, as it doesn't include them. The trailer should already have a 110 breaker or fuse box. Are you SURE there are no 110 outlets? Maybe on the light fixtures? I've not seen a trailer without at leas one outlet...

GROUNDS: The grounds are extremely important in our trailers. There should be a dedicated ground from the breaker box to the trailer frame. Since you will be using a converter, this dedicated ground will serve as a ground for the converter box itself. (instead of a stand alone breaker box) The battery should be cleanly grounded to the trailer frame. The battery ground bolt can also be used to run into the trailer to your ground bracket/bar. Also, I run a ground into my tongue junction box from the trailer frame. Then I connect the brake ground, the trailer cabin ground and the 7 way ground wire to the frame ground. Your grounds can never be too many; when in doubt, ground it again. This includes skin to frame grounds if necessary. The 7 way white ground wire is connected to the vehicle frame near the receptacle.

Here is a correct diagram:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34828339513/in/album-72157683590489800/" title="12 Volt System Diagram"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4229/34828339513_425481a348_z.jpg" width="640" height="465" alt="12 Volt System Diagram"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The middle or back up pole is not used unless your trailer has back up lights.

Here are the parts for the tongue area J box:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35250424210/in/album-72157683590489800/" title="12 Votl Parts 4"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4205/35250424210_e61d6a2503_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="12 Votl Parts 4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Here is a close up of the J box wiring:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34828340423/in/album-72157683590489800/" title="Junction Box 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4002/34828340423_6314da2796_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Junction Box 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Here is the wiring in the J box:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35250422690/in/album-72157683590489800/" title="System 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4031/35250422690_f159c626aa_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="System 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I recommend you start over from the converter. New grounds bolted to the frame, bracket (or bar) for inside grounds and then go from there.

I will be back for part two of this In a few hours...

All images are showing for me. Try re-loading the page and they should pop up. It sometimes takes a while.

Your converter BOX is a very light duty load center, similar to what is found in tent/pop up trailers. It looks to include 110 breakers and a 12 volt set of wires. If there are fuses, you do not need any cut off switches. Just remove a fuse. The converter box should have a dedicated ground to the trailer frame. You can add grounds but do not rely on the ground bar for the converter box; ground it to the trailer frame. There should also be a separate ground from the ground bar to the trailer frame.

You can ground the 12 volt fixtures to the frame or ground bar, whichever is handiest. There's no need for a single ground for each item, they can be junctioned together in J boxes as you run the wires. There could be a J box for the upper wires, one in the closet and probably one in the dinette. The skins are usually grounded with a small wire from the skin to the frame.

There should be at least a 12ga brake ground to the trailer frame. The brake hot connects to the blue 7 way wire in the tongue J box. The breakaway will have 2 black wires; one joins the blue wire and brake hot, the other is connected to the battery hot.

I have never grounded a propane line and have never seen that, so it should be skipped. The heavy duty battery negative wire should be grounded to the frame. The hot joins the trailer hot in the tongue J box and then goes up and into the trailer fuse box.

I'm not understanding 5 wires to each light. A 12 volt light needs one ground wire and one hot wire from the 12 volt fuse box. If you want to connect the wires together, use electrical wing nuts to connect and run to the next light. I'm also not understanding why you are including a backup light wire unless your trailer has backup lights. Most do not.

I'm guessing the truck on/off switch runs the 12 volt side of things off the truck battery when on.

My thought on the above is to slow down and take your time. You need photos of what is to happen rather than videos. It's much easier to view a photo than find a place in a video. I would start with your 12 volt junction box near the tongue and run the 7 way cord into that and clamp it. Do your grounds (1/4" bolts and ring terminals work fine-bare metal on the frame) and plan where/how you will run up and into the trailer.

We can work forward from there.

PM me for my email address if you can't view the photos.

Ok, I’ve made a new diagram. I think this is it?
imgur.com/a/Z44q0gz

I've used the diagram vkx shared above and my camper electrical system has worked perfectly for years.

Your wire connections are not complete so I'm guessing here:

The 12 volt hot from the battery goes to the self resetting circuit breaker "batt" stud. (in the J box) The inside trailer hot goes from the circuit breaker "aux" stud to the fuse block hot stud. The converter hot goes to the same inside fuse block stud. This will charge your batteries when on shore power.

The 7 way cord black wire goes to the circuit breaker BATT stud. This will charge your battery when on the road. NOTE: the 7 way vehicle receptacle must have the 12 volt hot connected to your vehicle battery via a fused line.

You can add kill switches or fuses to the hot lines. They are not necessary on tow wires, since they are fused from the vehicle. The more fuses, breakers and kills inline, the more apt to cause future troubles.

One break away wire connects to the battery hot. It should not have a fuse or breaker inline; it goes directly to the BATTERY HOT. The other break away wire connects to the brake hot wire inside the J box.

Be sure to follow instructions for your converter on wire gauge and connections.

Your truck may or may not have a hot wire run to the 7 way receptacle. Some trucks need to have a fuse installed for it to be hot. Factory wired trucks usually do not need a fused wire from the battery.

You do not need to shut off anything for the converter to work on shore power. Likewise, when it's off, the battery takes over and runs the 12 volt items in your trailer.

Also, do not add the backup light wire unless the trailer has backup lights.

The 12 volt and tow wiring seem good. The breaker box is not correct.

The box should have a ground bar and a common bar. Commons and Hot wires are NEVER joined together in an RV. The box also has one hot lug or two hot lugs, depending on whether it is 110/120 only or 220/240.

The shore power wires enter the breaker box and attach as follows: Ground wire to ground bar. Common/white wire to common bar. (this bar is isolated from a metal box to keep it separate from the grounds) The hot wire goes to the hot lug. If the box is capable of 220, the TWO lugs are joined with a 10ga. jumper.

The breakers are never joined together. Each has a single hot connection going OUT to a separate circuit. In other words, the shore power hot powers the breaker bar. Each breaker then powers an individual circuit when flipped on.

Here is a properly wired breaker box:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/46795849444/in/album-72157682956476004/" title="006 g Breaker Box (1)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7816/46795849444_ca745f0763_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="006 g Breaker Box (1)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Orange is the shore power cable coming into the box. The two hot lugs are jumpered in this box and the shore hot lead connects to one lug. Grounds on the left, commons on the right. The two black wires at the bottom of the breakers go out to each circuit.

Please do heavy research before wiring the breaker box and if necessary, hire a qualified electrician to do the work or inspect it. Electric is nothing to mess with and can lead to catastrophic damages or injury.