jj1fair66
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Post by jj1fair66 on Feb 8, 2022 14:05:05 GMT -8
New to the forum and finding a lot of helpful information. However, my camper may be a little newer than what has already been discussed. I am restoring a 1980 Starcraft Starlette XL 1704. Unfortunately water damage took me all the way down to replacing the floor and full body off restoration. I have sanded and painted the frame and ready to start rebuilding. The original floor was a 5/8" plywood (suspecting it was treated). I am having trouble finding 5/8" treated and can go 3/4" marine grade, 3/4" treated, or stick with the 5/8" and rubber coat/bed liner coat the bottom. Any suggestions?
My original floor did not have insulation. If I play too much with the redesign, I am worried the external skin will not fit.
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Post by vikx on Feb 8, 2022 22:41:40 GMT -8
I'd say the 3/4 marine will probably work. (I'm guessing it's 1/32 less than 3/4) When the floor is a little thicker, the cabinet doors sometimes need to be sanded or trimmed, usually not. I would still coat the underside with Black Beauty fence paint or similar.
Treated wood will react with metals, so it's best not to use it.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 9, 2022 12:14:03 GMT -8
"The original floor was a 5/8" plywood (suspecting it was treated)."
I doubt the original floor was pressure treated. Time and drying out sometimes compresses the floor plywood slightly.
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jj1fair66
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Post by jj1fair66 on Feb 11, 2022 18:36:01 GMT -8
I have the benefit of having a RV repair business in my town. I was talking to them yesterday and they recommended using Scrimshield (the material that is used to line the bottom of pull outs on newer units). It may actually be an affordable option as well. Anyone have experience?
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Post by vikx on Feb 11, 2022 21:29:57 GMT -8
I have not had good luck with modern RV underbelly material. The stuff I am familiar with is woven and black. It tended to wick water when curled up on the side at the slide bottoms. It seemed to work OK as an underbelly, but is very easy to cut.
I would coat the plywood instead. It's easy to touch up and won't rip.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 12, 2022 4:21:00 GMT -8
I’ve never had a problem with Rot from underneath. Unless you’re towing 365 days a year, very little water will spray up underneath while driving. old school soundboard and untreated plywood has worked very well. Maybe with an undercoating like VIkx mentioned above.
The issue with my campers has always been water seeping from the top down. If The camper is properly sealed above and stored under cover you should never have a problem in your lifetime.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Feb 13, 2022 16:34:26 GMT -8
Mine is standard plywood with some black stain or paint applied originally. It's held up for 60 years.
One option is MDO board. It's the plywood used for exterior signs and concrete forms.
Just a reminder. Pressure treated is for ground contact, including concrete. It has no business in a trailer, my honest opinion.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 26, 2022 10:51:01 GMT -8
Never talk to current RV shops about old trailers. They will always lead you down the wrong path. Only go to them to get a brake controller installed. Nothing else. Treated wood is never used in our trailers. It reacts with the aluminum metal. No need to coat the underside of the trailer. Build the trailer so it doesn't leak.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Mar 25, 2022 19:49:28 GMT -8
An underbelly layer might catch and hold water. I saw an old Airstream with an aluminum under belly and a completely rotted floor. Gravity is your friend with no underbelly. Waterproof paint is fine. I'd use it on marine 3/4" plywood.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Mar 27, 2022 13:48:27 GMT -8
My GF and I ended up using 3/4 ACX tongue and groove plywood, coated with asphalt paint from Tractor Supply. The frame was coated in POR15. It was heavy stuff, but we liked that it locked together in areas where the outriggers didn't directly support it.
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