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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 28, 2021 6:19:05 GMT -8
Soon the windows will be installed on my build. I'm wondering what the proper sequence should be. I'm thinking of first driving all the screws in first, then removing and adding the putty tape (to the window itself as opposed to the body?), and finally re-screwing. Make sense? I remember Vikx saying to add some gutter seal to screw holes (or screw heads?).
Also, I'm wondering about how to install the eyebrows. The ones I bought from VTS have only two screw holes at the ends. How many should I add? And should I use putty tape, or just some gutter seal on the screws?
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Post by vikx on Aug 28, 2021 11:00:58 GMT -8
To install windows:
1. Predrill screw holes.
2. Putty is applied to the window flange. If you have patterned siding, add small pieces of putty in the "dips".
3. Screw window in place. Before driving, you can add a small amount of OSI gutter seal to the hole if desired. Poke the screw thru the putty firmly into the screw hole to start.
4. The putty should ooze at each screw and seal to the next. Trim with a dull knife or screwdriver.
Most eyebrows have several spaced screw holes. I always place wood backers to support the eyebrow screws. The putty should fit tightly against the skin and eyebrow flange. If you have no backers, you might consider mounting the eyebrows as was originally done. Flange to skin attachments don't grip very well and every screw added can be overdriven, enlarge the hole and cause leaks.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 29, 2021 17:26:45 GMT -8
Little confused by the sentence "you might consider mounting the eyebrows as was originally done." I do have solid wood backing up the eyebrows. So, it sounds like you do use putty tape. I suppose that helps keep water from dripping down the siding onto the window, which in turn could leak.
What kind of screw spacing is used on those eyebrows? Mine have only two holes on the ends.
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Post by vikx on Aug 29, 2021 20:13:34 GMT -8
I'm confused as well. I've never seen eyebrows with only two holes. Do you have any photos? The spacing for eyebrow screws is usually 3-4 inches. Sounds like you can add holes and have a better seal.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Aug 30, 2021 12:27:12 GMT -8
An original 1956 Shasta eyebrow had them every 5" or so.
You'll need putty behind them.
vikx is saying to make sure your window framing extends high enough to have wood for the screws to attach.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 30, 2021 12:41:15 GMT -8
 20210830_153254 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr So, this is one of the eyebrow windows that I stripped paint from. Tried burning as well as paint remover. The latter worked better. Note the two holes at either end. Besides more holes in a line (3 to 4 inch spacing), should there also be a hole below on either end? |
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 30, 2021 12:43:38 GMT -8
Thanks nccamper. Appreciate seeing a pic of one of these.
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Post by vikx on Aug 30, 2021 19:49:49 GMT -8
I guess the two holes are to place the eyebrow, with you adding the holes where you want. I think 5" spacing would probably work...
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 30, 2021 21:47:42 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Should Joe flip the drip cap over and drill from the back with it supported against a piece of wood. It seems to me, he might start to dimple every spot he drills a hole from the "front" side. But maybe my question doesn't matter, because when you tighten the screws to mount a typical drip cap, it can dimple anyway as it squeezes out the putty.
Might be overthinking this.
Rod
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Post by vikx on Aug 31, 2021 10:43:15 GMT -8
I think you have a good point Rod. The holes can be flattened after drilling, but the screws will dimple anyway. I would certainly clean the burrs, etc. Along with using a wood backer, with aluminum, a person could use less "push" and let the bit slowly drill the hole.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 1, 2021 6:58:24 GMT -8
Yes, thought of the drilling problem too. Will place a backer board under when drilling. Thanks folks for looking after me.
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lyira
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Post by lyira on Apr 19, 2022 1:15:20 GMT -8
Yes, thought of the drilling problem too. Will place a backer board under when drilling. Thanks folks for looking after me. so, while creating it the drilling process is tough, I am getting nervous, me and my dad brought trailer, so that whenever we to some place , we dont have to realy or search for hotels, we are going to customize it but now as i was watching threads and videos on youtube it lookes like i will be going to be very hard and maybe we will never end it up.  |
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 19, 2022 16:29:25 GMT -8
IMPORTANT STEP...
Install the inside window trim BEFORE you set the windows. Otherwise you won't be able to get the trim in because the window frame will be tight against the wood.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Apr 20, 2022 8:16:42 GMT -8
Wish I had thought about that Larry
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Post by Teachndad on Apr 20, 2022 13:54:00 GMT -8
That's a very easy mistake to make, Joe. That's something I would have done also.🙄
This bit if advice just went into my entry door file. Why? Because of the door window - Currently in the process of rebuilding an entry door.
Cheers,
Rod
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