irish123
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The path is narrow but there are many roads to the Masters house!
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Shasta Compact 1969
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Post by irish123 on Apr 25, 2021 9:58:08 GMT -8
Hi, We have a 1969 Shasta Compact being pulled by a 2003 Saturn Vue and I have some questions/observations and would welcome your input... 1) Put in New tires and Bearings 2) I hooked her up and took her to the school parking lot to practice backing up etc. and one thing I noticed was that sometimes (rarely) if I hit the brakes there is this loud bang when the trailer hits the hitch... so the trailer does not seem to have any BRAKES... should I have them installed and if so what does that cost? 2B) what do you think of the new cushion Ball hitches which are suppose to smooth out some of the bangs 3) How hard is it to replace the hitch at the end of the toung? 4) I have a small sag at the hitch... but if I switch the hitch and make it a riser vs a lower-er I should be level and even. Sound good? 5) What do you think about 'Sway Control Bars' or a 'Weight distribution hitch' for a 'Compact' Shasta (aprox 1400lbs). 6) my chains drag... should I cut them short or 7) How many folks have switched from 4pin to 7 pin? THANKS for your thoughts!
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Post by danrhodes on Apr 25, 2021 13:08:00 GMT -8
I only have a few thoughts... Our camper came with a 1-7/8 ball, yet it turns out the hitch was a 2 inch size. Could this explain the loud bang? If the ball moves up and down at all when latched, it could be the wrong size.
Regarding weight distribution, always a good idea, especially when towing with a small suv. Your max tow rating might even require it, check your manual. Many small camper folks like the Andersen system but I found it was too low to the ground.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Apr 25, 2021 17:36:39 GMT -8
A couple of things you might check: 1) Is is your hitch rattling in your receiver? Mine did, and on our first trip drop me nuts! I made one of these, but you can by them on that jungle website: Hitch Clamp Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Or similar devise. If you're unsure how it works, here's a little video for you: How to eliminate hitch rattle with the Hitch Clamp I don't leave home without it. 2) I might be the slop of the ball in the coupler. Unfortunately, I don't think most of the hitch couplers on our trailers are adjustable and can be sloppy and add to the noise. Here's an example to help explain what I'm talking about: How Do I Adjust My D-L Coupler? I replaced mine with a modern one that is adjustable. Also, check to make sure your suspension is in good shape. Jack it up by the frame so the axle doesn't have any weight on it. Inspect that your u-bolts are still holding the axle snug to the leaf spring perches, and that you don't have play from worn bushings in your leaf spring eyes and that those bolts are tight as well. To narrow down where the noise is coming from, have someone stand outside and listen when you stop to see if they can help pinpoint the source. Hitch height? Level is good, tongue slightly sagging (inch or two) a little better, just not too much sag. Taking into account everything is loaded correctly and evenly. Oh, and on the chain dragging issue, don't shorten them. I use a bungee cord wrapped around the tongue enough times to allow the hooks to suspend the chain close to the bottom of the tongue. If you get in a pinch and need the extra length, the bungee cords will stretch and then go back to holding them up when you straighten out again. An added benefit to doing that also keeps them from smacking that road kill you just straddled..... As always, just my opinion, didn't say it was a good one... Whitney
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Post by vikx on Apr 25, 2021 19:12:24 GMT -8
Top towing weight for a 2003 Vue is 2500 lbs, so you are at your capacity with the trailer. Our rule of thumb is double the trailer weight=vehicle towing ability. I would limit the "stuff" you take along camping or you might be too heavy.
If the trailer is towing smoothly, you probably don't need a load leveling system. They are very heavy. A sway bar might help when big semis pass or on windy trips. I haven't heard of the cushion balls but looking them up, they are very expensive. The CLUNK in the parking lot is concerning. As Dan said, have someone listen and pinpoint where it is coming from. It's also possible that the ball mount is slightly smaller than your receiver. That makes quite a clunk when towing. You can buy a tightener that clamps on the ball mount and turn the bolts to eliminate the play.
I like to have my ball height at least an inch above level before hitching up. When the trailer is hitched, then the weight will put the car and trailer "on the level". The trailer coupler isn't hard to replace, but involves welding and hourly fees to do the work.
The chains should cross under the coupler. When they are too long, you can twist them to take up slack or bolt a section to shorten them. I wouldn't cut the chains.
All of my trailers have a 7 way plug. The switch isn't difficult but you need knowledge. The color codes are different. If you have no brakes and no battery, a 4 way plug will work just fine.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Apr 25, 2021 21:00:35 GMT -8
Nobody cam possibly come on here and emphasize just how important towing safety is. I say again, it's impossible to emphasize enough just how important towing safety is. You ask some great questions that some people may take for granted. Here are a few of my thoughts based on what I read into your questions. I am uneducated about the towing capabilities of the Saturn Vue, and I prefer overkill in the form of the towing vehicle,my 4WD truck does a nice job with my Shasta. You must know the towing capacity, tongue-weight capacity, and the braking capacity before you start out. If you have towed it already, you should have some idea of how it will handle it. Just remember, adding gear, equipment, water, propane, and people can drastically change the load you are trying to haul with a relatively lightweight tow vehicle. New tires and bearings are always a good idea. Tire load ratings are important with other factors involved as well...trailer-rated tires, proper inflation and check your lug nuts(!!) New bearings may not always be necessary, but lubricating them should be part of your annual maintenance. My first inclination when you described the loud bang when hitting the brakes was exactly what Dan brought up above. Check to make sure you have the correct ball for the hitch. The Shasta coupler is 2", be sure the ball matches. The 1 7/8 ball leaves enough slop to make for a very disconcerting ride... I get a noise in my hitch from the pin that holds the receiver in place. If there is any slop in the receiver, it can cause some noises. It has never given me any great concern for safety when towing, but it is another link in your towing system that should be inspected when you are getting ready for a trip. The Compact has always been a small enough trailer weight-wise that it never required having brakes installed for legal standards in most states. There were none I ever heard of shipped out from the factory with brakes installed. It has been a long time since I have been underneath one, and I can't remember if there is a flange on the axle for brakes. If there is, they could be added fairly simply, I put new brake assemblies on my Shasta for just about $300, but in your case you would also have to add the drums, as they would not likely be present on the axle. If there is not, the axle would have to be changed entirely. You would also need a brake controller in the vehicle, and it is probably not already wired for one. Switching to the 7-pin wiring would almost be necessary in that case, answering that for you. In my opinion, adding brakes would increase your safety quite a bit with the lighter towing vehicle. Replacing the coupler on the tongue should not be necessary if it locks down firmly onto the 2" ball. If it is necessary, you should have it done by a qualified experienced welder to make sure a new one is mounted straight and true. Let me see if I can tie your hitch questions into one tirade...
Normally I would not think a weight-distribution hitch would be necessary for a Compact, but I do use one with my 16SC (about 2500 lbs dry weight), and it makes a world of difference in the ride. The weight distribution equipment is heavy however, and can change your tongue weight by enough to consider. By having a sag in the hitch I assume you mean the trailer is not level, and this can be corrected by adjusting the hitch height. Multiple adjustments can be made with most W-D hitches. A standard draw bar can be purchased with different level of drop/ lift.
Don't cut the chains. First be sure they are in good enough condition to handle an emergency breakaway, and if they are questionable, replace them. Use a good chain if replacing, and have them welded in place. I would guess they may have been replaced already, as many of the Compacts only came equipped with one chain. Shortening can be accomplished by twisting the chain, then crossing it with the other to cradle beneath the coupler. Make sure they have enough play to not bind up but don't drag. Dragging can wear the chain thin enough to become unsafe.
By the time I get this finished and posted today, others will have already countless pointed all these points out. So take my echo as just reaffirming good advice...
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irish123
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The path is narrow but there are many roads to the Masters house!
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Shasta Compact 1969
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Post by irish123 on Apr 29, 2021 17:23:12 GMT -8
THANKS very much y'all! I totally agree that not enough emphasis is placed on towing safety. We need training and licenses to own a Firearm, drive a Car, fly a Plane or Capt. a Boat... but we can hurdle down the highway at 55+ MPH with 2 tons tons of trailer behind us!?! Not me. I'm making damn sure both the rig AND me driving skills are up to par. And until then it'll be early Sunday mornings in the school parking lot. ; ) Although there is a lot of good solid towing info on YouTube! I got a new Hitch with a 3" rise so the trailer sits much more level now AND i installed the new CURT 40247 RockerBall Cushion Hitch Trailer Ball and man-o-man its 10 times smoother and no bangs. Well worth $50 to me. www.amazon.com/dp/B083LJMHX9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_detailsI also found that the hitch was not fully engaged so I wacked it a few times, greased it and now it fully engages the new 2" ball. I just have not been able to figure out the lock part... the hitch has only only hole on one side?I had it weighed at the local Atlas Moving place and fully loaded with Water (15 gal.) and 5 gal. Gas., food and all... the trailer came in at 1438 lbs. The V6 Vue seems to like pullin it but we will add a Trans cooler just in case... and insure the brakes are 110%. Will also give adding some Brakes some thought... but I think I would just replace the whole axel. But my intention is to use secondary roads (thats where the real America is!) and not go over 55mph (thos days are over!) THANKS Again T;-)m
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Apr 30, 2021 8:49:18 GMT -8
...i installed the new CURT 40247 RockerBall Cushion Hitch Trailer Ball and man-o-man its 10 times smoother and no bangs. Well worth $50 to me. WOW, didn't know that actually existed. I'll have to check into that. Thanks for posting.www.amazon.com/dp/B083LJMHX9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_detailsI also found that the hitch was not fully engaged That's scary! I just have not been able to figure out the lock part... the hitch has only one hole on one side? Takes a regular pad lock.I had it weighed at the local Atlas Moving place and fully loaded with Water (15 gal.) and 5 gal. Gas., food and all... the trailer came in at 1438 lbs. The V6 Vue seems to like pullin it but we will add a Trans cooler just in case... and insure the brakes are 110%. We have pulled our 1400# TD with '06 Chevy Equinox AWD for many miles. Highly recommend a trans cooler because those trannies are expensive. Will also give adding some Brakes some thought... but I think I would just replace the whole axel. Trailer brakes would be up on the priority list. Our TD doesn't have trailer brakes and our first long trip was from Indiana to Montana. Did good until we hit the mountains, smoked a set of rotors going down hill, so, yes to the trailer brakes.But my intention is to use secondary roads (thats where the real America is!) and not go over 55mph (thos days are over!) You will miss a lot of America if you don't...THANKS Again T;-)m
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Apr 30, 2021 18:52:57 GMT -8
One horrible problem I’ve ran in to is that when you pull in the camp ground with a vintage camper, everyone wants to come see it and they are watching while you try to back it into the spot.
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turbodaddy
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17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
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Post by turbodaddy on May 1, 2021 5:13:02 GMT -8
aslmx,
When we lived in Florida watching people at the boat launching ramps was considered fine entertainment. Even better was watching owners of 50' powerboats trying to dock at, or leave a marina. Lots of yelling and gesturing...nerves on edge!
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on May 7, 2021 10:02:55 GMT -8
I also found that the hitch was not fully engaged so I wacked it a few times, greased it and now it fully engages the new 2" ball. I just have not been able to figure out the lock part... the hitch has only only hole on one side?The locking mechanism slides to lock onto the ball. I use a padlock to prevent it from being able to be uncoupled.
The position of the hole will allow the bail to pivot, but not allow the coupler to slide.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on May 9, 2021 15:43:03 GMT -8
15 gallons of water weighs 125 pounds. We carry a couple gallons then fill the tank at our destination. Same if you have an icebox. We pre-cool it with frozen ice packs then freeze our drinks, including milk,, and meat and use them to keep the icebox chilled. Everything else is as cold as possible without freezing. We pick up a block of ice at the last town before we camp. That’s another 16 pounds we don’t have to pull all day. With gasoline looking to be very spendy this summer, the less weight you pull, the less gas you’ll use. Your camper weighs 1438 loaded, but remember your Vue is also “pulling” whatever is in the car as well and add that onto the total.
I really like the 1400 layout, you will get a lot of use from it.
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irish123
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The path is narrow but there are many roads to the Masters house!
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Shasta Compact 1969
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Post by irish123 on May 10, 2021 14:15:43 GMT -8
Thanks all... really appreciate it. I have been taking the camper out early Sat. Sun to the school parking lot to practice!
Can you help me with these stats and their meaning?
2003 V6 3L Saturn VUE with Trans Cooler
GVWR = 4839 lbs GAWR = 2425 lbs GAWR RR = 2414 lbs
From the Local Truck Scales =
Vehicle attached to Camper = 3840 lbs
Vehicle detached from Camper = 3540 lbs
Tongue Weight = 300 lbs
(Not including my fat irish asre at 300 lbs (but I AM dieting!))
Sooooooooo... am i right that I can only have about 600 pounds of other supplies and stuff?
ALSO: If 60% of the over-all weight should be at or in front of the trailer axel... what does one store in/towards the back?
And I take it one of those cargo trays on the back bumper is a non-starter?
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on May 16, 2021 4:03:38 GMT -8
Did you weigh the entire rig?
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