reeb
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Post by reeb on Jan 12, 2021 14:58:20 GMT -8
Hello, I will finally be putting skins on this weekend. I have a staple gun that shoots 16 g staples 1/4” crown 1 in length. Is this sufficient to use on the skins.
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reeb
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Post by reeb on Jan 12, 2021 15:16:23 GMT -8
I also have another question about insulation. I think I am going with the foam board with the vapor barrier on it. Does the vapor barrier go to the outside? The walls are 1 1/2 “and the foam is 1” is it ok the have that 1/2” or to you put anything else in there to take up the gap? Also should I tape the edges of the foam to the framing?
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reeb
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Post by reeb on Jan 12, 2021 15:21:45 GMT -8
I think I just answered one of my own questions I just looked on Home Depot web site and found 1/2” and 1” insulation so I guess I will just use both sides. Thanks in advance for the other question
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 12, 2021 22:05:48 GMT -8
I think I just answered one of my own questions I just looked on Home Depot web site and found 1/2” and 1” insulation so I guess I will just use both sides. Thanks in advance for the other question Just my opinion, but for a 1 1/2" wide wall I use 3/4" Styrofoam in two layers". Here's some of the reasons. It's easier to use all of the same thickness material. with two layers, you can tuck wiring and plumbing behind one layer, and cover over with the seacond layer where necessary. Most roofs, fronts, and backs are still only 3/4" high, so the remaining 3/4" Styrofoam fit nicely there. Yes, tape all of the edges, but if you do a good job of cutting/fitting it's stays really tight. Use a knife blade in a saber saw for a nice easy to control "clean cut", it's much less messy. Yes, I put the vapor barrier on the outside, just under the aluminum skin when rebuilding a stick and tin type construction. It might not be the exact way Tyvek was designed to be used, but with our trailers it works well. The Orange Box store no longer sells the 3/4" size Styrofoam, but the Big Blue Box store still has it. 1/4" crown staples work fine. Use the staple's length appropriate for the job, which depends on your trailer. Air pressure at your gun is very important, as well as the angle you hold the gun to the metal. I'm a "belt, and also suspenders" type of guy. I always go back and "screw" the mid seam "S" lock, after the upper panel is placed, and stapled. Make sure both side panels are straight and also level with each other. It won't matter until you get to the laying out the graphic's step. Make sure you use tensioned strap's and smooth 2 by 4's to pull down the roof skin. This is to prevent the dreaded "corner boogers". John |
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Post by vikx on Jan 13, 2021 19:27:58 GMT -8
I use 1/4" crown 18 guage staples for the trailer siding. The divots are smaller than 16ga.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 14, 2021 5:42:03 GMT -8
I also have another question about insulation. I think I am going with the foam board with the vapor barrier on it. Does the vapor barrier go to the outside? The walls are 1 1/2 “and the foam is 1” is it ok the have that 1/2” or to you put anything else in there to take up the gap? Also should I tape the edges of the foam to the framing? Hi Friends, Here is an image showing one of NCCamper’s trailers all dressed up and ready for the skins. 
It shows the vapor barrier over the top of the insulation before the skins go on.
Cheers,
Rod
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 14, 2021 10:22:21 GMT -8
Thanks for posting the NCcamper pictures. It reminded me of one very important point about using Styrofoam ridged board.
It's self explanatory installing it on the flat side walls. Getting it to follow the curves on the canned ham roof is another thing.
The Styrofoam is made just like drywall plaster board. It has a thin (plastic, or foil) skin on each side of the messy little Styrofoam balls. When installing the foam on a curved roof, just kerf one side of the board. I like to put the aluminum foil side out, so I just lay the board on my work table, use a long drywall ruler as a straight edge, then use a single edge razor blade to cut through only the outer foil skin. I do not measure, I just use the width of the ruler for the kerf width size, After it's relief cut, just move it out to the table edge and slightly crack it over the edge. Your foam piece will then easily take the shape of your roof.
John
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 14, 2021 10:29:58 GMT -8
I use 1/4" crown 18 guage staples for the trailer siding. The divots are smaller than 16ga. Agree, 18ga are the most commonly available gauge for a 1/4" crown stapler. John |
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Jan 16, 2021 5:21:58 GMT -8
A suggestion for insulation on the curves. Look at whats called "fan fold" insulation. It's usually 3/8 inch thick styrene and is intended to go under vynil siding. The thin layers bend reasonably well,just build up layers as needed.
It's been awhile since I've been in the business but IIRC it sold in bundles that covered 4x16 feet.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 16, 2021 9:09:54 GMT -8
A suggestion for insulation on the curves. Look at whats called "fan fold" insulation. It's usually 3/8 inch thick styrene and is intended to go under vynil siding. The thin layers bend reasonably well,just build up layers as needed. It's been awhile since I've been in the business but IIRC it sold in bundles that covered 4x16 feet. That's a good option. Thanks. Remember, the ridged Styrofoam is installed for more than just it's insulating properties. After the empty framing cavities are filled with the foam pieces, and the edges are taped with HVAC foil tape, you have a very strong support backing for your thin .030" aluminum skin. Soft foam, spun fiberglass, and bubble wrap do not give the same support. John |
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