I'm nearly at the point of cutting out my new metal around my dinette windows... you know the ones -- stationary, a gazillion holes around them, always leak no matter what you do. What's the current school of thought as far as getting these as leak-proof as possible? I know mobiltec Larry's first videos suggested switching them out for Plexiglass. Then in a more recent build retracted that and switched back to glass. I believe Tim Heintz uses a silicone of some sort, but he wouldn't divulge his trade secrets. Before I put them in, does anyone have any new-fangled methods they prefer? Something that's worked better than expected? I'm all ears!
This is what Larry suggested when I did my windows:
What I do is loosen the screws on the side that I am installing the seal in and then tighten them back up as it goes in. Same with the corners. Put the seam at the top middle of the window. Keeps the water out. When you are done, clean the rubber well with windex. You will get it dirty installing it. Not easy. Takes working with it. You'll see.
First put a few of the upper lower and side screws through the metal and into the wooden window frame. Then place the window in it's hole and start with the upper plywood keeper strip. These keeper strips can not be too thick or your window trim will not go in properly so before you nail in the keeper strips place them in there and slip the interior window trim over the whole thing to see if it's all right. Upper keeper strip is held up by the two side strips which are set between the upper and lower keeper strips. So upper, lower and then the two sides. Then try the trim. If it fits then go ahead and begin nailing in the strips. Upper first, then lower then two sides. Do this holding medium pressure against the glass. Not to much. I use 1one inch long 18 ga finish nails from my air nailer.
Then install the glass seal. Then install all the rest of the screws around the outside of the window. In the 59 I actually used twice as many as the factory which flattens out the brakes in the metal skin giving you a better seal with the glass seal gaskets available from Vintage Trailer Gaskets dot Com.
The above worked for me. Dry as a bone in the desert.
Since I'm starting from scratch with new skins, new glass, new screws and new seals -- would you have any more photos of the process or as it appears from the inside? I'm curious about the 'keeper strips' and where the actual glass goes in relation to everything else?
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of the stops. They are just wood you cut to reach the edge of the skin opening and as wide as the wall plus the birch. Make sure you don't leave more of a lip in the skin for the stops than will be covered but the aluminum window trim.
The rubber gasket will be pressed in place by the stop. Press too hard and you brake the glass, not hard enough and it isn't sealed.
Another question about installing these godforsaken windows.... and I know this should be very basic but I want to make sure I'm not screwing it up any worse than Shasta did... does the glass sit on the wood framing, being pressed against the skin with just the "keeper strips", or does it sandwich between the wood framing and the metal skin, being held in place with the "keeper strips" and the screws? I have a window opening that's not quite big enough that I need to try to trim down and I need to know what I'm using for a guide.