Post by boondockingbilly on Oct 13, 2020 11:09:51 GMT -8
Hi all, During my rebuild of my Scotty Highlander I found that the existing edge trim (soft aluminum L rail) is not going to be sufficient to create a water tight seal. I need to find something that is a little wider to ~1.5in to seal the gap between the roofing material and aluminum siding. Does anyone have any products or creative solutions to this issue? The highlander has some pretty tight curvatures to the roof which is making it difficult to find a product that will contour to the roof line. Thank you in advance! I can provide pictures if it will be helpful.
Post by John Palmer on Oct 13, 2020 16:47:13 GMT -8
IMO, The roof skin should be wide enough to allow for a bend over and then be stapled into the sidewall/edgewood. If your planning to not replace the original skin, that will not be possible.
You can use a metal shrinker (Lancaster makes the best quality, USA made one) to shrink one edge of 1/16" thick extruded aluminum angle. The shrinker will only accept up to 1" wide metal for shrinking. You can special order at any metal store offset aluminum angle in 1/16" thick material. It comes in 16" lengths and is about $20 per stick which is the same as your normal edge trim or rain rail. The offset maetal you need is 1" by 1 1/2" by 1/16". The shrinker can shrink the 1" leg down to a 4" radius, which is a smaller radius than anything on a Scotty.
I would not use normal RV putty under the 1 1/2" leg because you will not be able to pull it down. Just use a little urethane seam sealer like TremPro 635 under the lip. Do not use a silicone product. If any squishes out, do not clean it until dries for a day. Acetone cuts it, but will also damage your painted aluminum.
I plan on using pure Butyl tape under both legs of my L rail. It worked on my 57 Shasta for 60 years; I'm convinced. Also, I never put permanent sealers on a part that may need repairs. It's miserable to remove for sure. Metal trims may need to be removed for various reasons.