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Post by sellenwood on Oct 9, 2020 19:38:08 GMT -8
I have a 1972 Yellowstone Cavalier and all LP systems and plumbing function as they should EXCEPT that I cannot get hot water to my hot water faucets. Cold water pressure is great. No leaks. I love the elegance of the old pressurized system. I do not use a 12v pump. There are no bi-pass valves, just copper tubing from the 45 gallon tank to the Bowen hot water heater, then the pipes branch off to kitchen sink, bathroom sink, and shower. I have combed every inch of pipe for a valve. Nothing.
The 6 gallon hot water heater has water in it. I remove some pressure with the pressure release valve and water comes out. Fires up fine and seems to be heating adequately.I disconnected the copper pipe at the water heater and kitchen sink and blew through it to check for an obstruction. All clear.
I feel like I am missing something very simple and just can't put my finger on it. Any insight would be appreciated!
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Post by vikx on Oct 9, 2020 21:34:16 GMT -8
Is there a check valve on the water heater? They are known to fail. It would probably be brass at the tank inlet or outlet or both.
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Post by sellenwood on Oct 10, 2020 8:10:17 GMT -8
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Post by sellenwood on Oct 10, 2020 8:22:29 GMT -8
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Oct 10, 2020 8:36:05 GMT -8
Sounds like you may have a blockage in the water heater tank that is preventing the hot water from flowing out.
Some ideas for troubleshooting may be found online.
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Post by vikx on Oct 10, 2020 9:38:57 GMT -8
I'm not seeing a check valve but it's hard to tell. It/they would be on the back of the tank where the water lines connect. Disconnect the lines on the back and inspect to see if there is a blockage. Tanks can build up white debris that blocks inflow/outflow. Also remove the tank plug in the front to drain and flush the tank.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Oct 10, 2020 11:07:05 GMT -8
Easy check is start taking lines loose and see if it it leaks. I would start at the water heater outlet and see if water comes out. If so move to the next joint. That is the easiest way to find where the blockage is.
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Post by sellenwood on Oct 10, 2020 13:48:36 GMT -8
Ok, so I disconnected the hot water outlet again to check for blockages and ran a bit of flexible tube into the water heater, blew air into it, and pressurized air came back out the tube. I was also able to siphon some water into the hot water tank and cleaned the opening with a straw cleaning brush. Drained the hot water and now it's empty. Doesn't seem like there could be a blockage on the cold water side because the tank fills without issue and there is great cold water pressure throughout the camper. I am seriously stumped!
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Post by sellenwood on Oct 10, 2020 15:21:56 GMT -8
!DRAMATIC UPDATE! I blew up my hot water heater. I lit the pilot to try, try, again and didn't realize that there was a new propane leak in the control assembly. All the plastic knobs caught fire. I shut off the lp tanks and hit it with my fire suppressant. Guess I wasn't meant to have hot water for awhile after all. Time to start saving for a new Atwood. Cold showers never killed anyone.
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Post by vikx on Oct 10, 2020 20:48:40 GMT -8
Egads! I'm glad you weren't hurt and you got the fire out. So sorry this happened.
Another idea: since you will be removing the tank any way, connect the two water heater lines with a temporary coupling. Then see if water flows on the hot side of each faucet. If not, there's got to be some sort of valve, blockage or check on the hot lines. You could also try some air from the water heater outlet line to the faucet hot side. Have a helper, you don't want the pressure too high.
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Post by sellenwood on Jun 28, 2022 17:59:53 GMT -8
UPDATE! I solved the mystery. I think. I did a vinegar soak and cleared out decades of calcium and limescale which I think was blocking the hot water line. After that, I found two splits in the hot water line, so now the water flows right out of those splits instead of up through the faucets. I successfully cut, spliced, and soldered one section but the other split is in the bathroom...out of sight and out of reach behind the toilet platform. Feels like the worst game of whack-a-mole.
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Post by vikx on Jun 29, 2022 11:47:09 GMT -8
Upon discovery of even one "split" in copper lines, it is best to replace all of them. The split indicates the lines have frozen. The lines swell and are no longer to spec; meaning future repairs may be difficult and new fittings are not sized properly.
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