chrisvt
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Post by chrisvt on Jan 6, 2014 18:38:52 GMT -8
Brand? Finish? Color? Thanks in advance! |
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ndpap
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Post by ndpap on Jan 6, 2014 18:53:44 GMT -8
We used Majic Tractor paint. International Harvest white which is not white at all and more of an ivory/cream color. They do have a white white too!
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jan 6, 2014 19:21:01 GMT -8
We used Valspar Olympic White in basecoat/clearcoat...it was a 2002 GM OEM color.
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Post by vikx on Jan 6, 2014 22:17:23 GMT -8
Rustoleum Gloss White oil base. Very easy to touch up with a rattle can if need be. We mix our own colors with other Rustos...
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soup
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"I hate cold Soup"
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Post by soup on Jan 6, 2014 23:28:24 GMT -8
Rustoleum Gloss White oil base. Very easy to touch up with a rattle can if need be. We mix our own colors with other Rustos... X2, What Vikx said^ |
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 7, 2014 7:02:00 GMT -8
I am going with Rutoleum Almond and "Fern Green".. To be completed come warm weather.. But Soup and Vikx, while the two of you have chimed in.. 
I am on board with complete prep and prime where necessary.. It can make or break a paint job.. but.
Is there any need to try and add hardeners or clear coats on this stuff? I'd like to think that couple of good coats, 2 or 3 perhaps of Rustolem will hold up good for what I am looking for... Where I have painted the bumper and tongue frame with 2 brush coats it has cured out rich and hard.. looks really good for me. I'm either going to borrow a friends air compressor and shoot the main can or I might try my Wagner airless, which may be risky.. but I'm going to play with it and see. I'll rattle can the "Fern Green"
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Post by vikx on Jan 7, 2014 23:10:42 GMT -8
PREP IS EVERYTHING. I don't do that nor do I paint...
That being said, we don't use hardener in the Rusto. Not sure it would work? We do spray with a gravity gun and air compressor. Nothing is perfect. RUNS are our nemesis... The finish is glossy and seems to be hard enough. So far so good, after 3 years.
The automotive paint was just Astro in cost and it did use hardener. The finish is nice and it's very tough. I believe this is the way to go with one trailer if you have the money.
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 8, 2014 5:34:51 GMT -8
PREP IS EVERYTHING. I don't do that nor do I paint... That being said, we don't use hardener in the Rusto. Not sure it would work? We do spray with a gravity gun and air compressor. Nothing is perfect. RUNS are our nemesis... The finish is glossy and seems to be hard enough. So far so good, after 3 years. The automotive paint was just Astro in cost and it did use hardener. The finish is nice and it's very tough. I believe this is the way to go with one trailer if you have the money. Thanks Vikx, I am glad to hear it. I feel like it will hold up. Some talk about Chaulking, Fading, ect. My girl spends her winter in the garage anyhow and I do want to turn this project (my hobby) into a money pit either. If I can get 4 or 5 "glossy" years out of it.. so be it. Soup has dropped some good notes on its performance as well. He has some mixing recipes on here to.. Now, I'll just have to wait for warm weather..  |
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jan 8, 2014 6:10:23 GMT -8
I have been painting for 25 years now and IMHO, if it's worth the work to prep and shoot paint it's worth doing the best job you can! I've used the Rustoleum type paints on outdoor equipment and such, but for the best all around finish (gloss, protection, durability, UV resistance) I will ALWAYS use a two part activated base/clear system. These systems are made to withstand the elements, spray on and flow out quickly, and while they are more expensive than rattle-can paints, you really do get what you pay for.
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Post by mrssilvermountan on Jul 5, 2014 9:59:57 GMT -8
We are planning on using 1Shot. Its a sign painters enamel with a 30 year warranty. I have been using it for 20 years to do sign painting and it is some amazing stuff. wont fade, nice glossy finish. And it cheap, its going to cost me 50$ for all my paint.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 5, 2014 15:58:53 GMT -8
We are planning on using 1Shot. Its a sign painters enamel with a 30 year warranty. I have been using it for 20 years to do sign painting and it is some amazing stuff. wont fade, nice glossy finish. And it cheap, its going to cost me 50$ for all my paint. Jeez, $50 sounds cheap for enough One Shot to paint a trailer.
The last One Shot I purchased was about $30/pint for a medium green accent strip, wheels, tongue, trim. Also, this price was without any hardener, or reducer.
It is good paint.
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John Palmer
Leading Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,771
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Currently Offline
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 5, 2014 16:08:08 GMT -8
A good 1950's Ford color was called Colonial White, and a good 1960's Ford color was Wimbeldon White. They are both "creamy off white" colors, available at any auto paint store.
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Post by mrssilvermountan on Jul 6, 2014 15:37:13 GMT -8
We are planning on using 1Shot. Its a sign painters enamel with a 30 year warranty. I have been using it for 20 years to do sign painting and it is some amazing stuff. wont fade, nice glossy finish. And it cheap, its going to cost me 50$ for all my paint. Jeez, $50 sounds cheap for enough One Shot to paint a trailer.
The last One Shot I purchased was about $30/pint for a medium green accent strip, wheels, tongue, trim. Also, this price was without any hardener, or reducer.
It is good paint.
I think you over paid. One shot is $18 a pint retail on Dick Blicks website. I buy it wholesale so its 40% of that. I've never used hardener or reducer. Just thin it out with paint thinner and your good to go. |
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John Palmer
Leading Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 625
Currently Offline
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 6, 2014 21:44:20 GMT -8
Jeez, $50 sounds cheap for enough One Shot to paint a trailer.
The last One Shot I purchased was about $30/pint for a medium green accent strip, wheels, tongue, trim. Also, this price was without any hardener, or reducer.
It is good paint.
I think you over paid. One shot is $18 a pint retail on Dick Blicks website. I buy it wholesale so its 40% of that. I've never used hardener or reducer. Just thin it out with paint thinner and your good to go. Hey, Thanks for the heads up, the website source. I'm sure I likely "overpaid" for the convenience of picking it up locally.
One problem we have in So. California is due the local district air quality laws, is the lack of available thinners. We are forced to purchase the reducers (high $$) that are compatible with the various paints we are using. If you go to a paint store and ask for paint thinner, or mineral spirits, they will try to sell you something that says "this product can be used for paint thinner". But when it's mixed with paint, it turns the paint to "spoiled milk".
Ahh the joys.
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Post by vikx on Jul 6, 2014 22:53:05 GMT -8
I feel your pain, John... Cali has several unpleasant laws and the DMV is a nightmare.
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