Gravel Guard source for '48 Boles Aero?

No 1948 trailer had rubber on the front skin. If it needs to be repaired/replaced I would first remove the previous owner installed rubber and see what's under it.

Hopefully it's not hiding floor rot, but it needs to come off first. The replacement 5000 series .040" aluminum skin is available at any local metal store.

John

The window drip caps were "screwed on" so you can remove the window panes for service.

Not sure I would call them rock guards, they are more like patches to cover the stone dents. Using a "embossed" aluminum panel serves the same purpose (hiding dents), and looks more period correct, IMO.

It would be best to address your floor repairs before you start on the cosmetic repairs.  You never know when you might need to remove some skin in order to complete the floor or structure repairs.

John

First it's the owners trailer, and they should be able to choose any direction they see fit.

After that disclaimer, here's my take on the subject.

When rebuilding a 1940's to 1950's premium brand trailer (like a Holiday House, Boles Aero, Spartan, Silver Streak, Streamliner, etc) you have to look at the large picture. These trailers have already lasted 60 to 70 years, and we should be rebuilding with the idea that they could last that long again. We are only the current care takers, the trailers are going to outlast us in most cases. A fully rebuilt, nicely done premium trailer is going to be in the $50K to $75K value price range. Depending on model and condition, your looking at "unrestored" trailers selling in $15K to $20K range. Small 1950's restored canned hams are appraising north of $25K. My point is, you need to think of your trailer as an investment. Maybe you have no plans to ever sell it, but your heirs will possibly need to sell it. Make your remodeling plans with care. For example in a 1940's trailer a Marmoleum floor is a much better choice than a stick down tile checker board floor. There's two schools of thought currently in our hobby. The "fully original, no changes allowed group" is maybe only 2%. 98% of the restored trailers you see coming out of the top tier shops like Flyte Camp, and So. Cal Vintage Trailer are completely original looking but have lots of modern amenities added. Nicely done, built into the trailer changes do not detract from the vintage looks, and actually add value to a certified appraisal.

Speaking of appraisals, everyone with a $25K plus trailer value should invest into a appraisal done by a certified public appraiser. After you get your one time value appraisal (about $300), you can purchase a specialty policy specifically called AGREED VALUE. This is very important, you need to establish the value before you have the loss. If someone, even if they are insured, runs into your $50K to $75K valued trailer, you will have to fight with their insurance company over the claim. If you took the easy way, and have your trailer insured with a STATED VALUE, or a ACV (actual cash value) policy you will have to prove your vehicle value on your own, the insurance company will not accept it like they do with AGREED VALUE policies. These are insurance terms, they sound alike, they are NOT the SAME.  Properly insuring your trailer has become very important as the values have increased in recent years. Jim Polk Appraisers is the go to company for everything vintage. When you purchase your AGREED VALUE policy, make sure you add the campsite rider which covers you for liability when someone falls out of your trailer at a trailer rally. It's less than $10. as a rider.

John