cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 15, 2013 6:34:30 GMT -8
Friday I started the front-most roof seam, curses on all P.O.s with their buckets of crap! Tried a new removal method, using a heat gun and my trusty painter's tool. Could only run the heat gun on the low setting with my little 800-watt generator, but it was plenty hot. I knew the gun would soften the black goop, but it also seemed to soften the silver crap some too (which is only silver on the surface, it looks like cream-colored bondo underneath and gets kinda cracked/chalky/powdery when it's old). I got the vast majority of both off with just heat and shaving under it with the painter's tool. It has a chisel edge on the end, and I use it with the long face down, the opposite of the way you use a chisel, so it hugs the surface and pushes the crap up. Seems to work best if you push the tool edge from the outer edge of the crap spill towards the seam at a right angle, that way you don't have to worry about the skin breaks. Doesn't take much force, and if you seesaw it back and forth, it "walks" its way under the stuff. That tool has at least a thousand uses on old campers, everyone should have one.  This is how much of the crap came off with just the heat gun and paint tool. Still haveta sand and tape it.  On Sunday, I removed, cleaned and resealed the right rear window 'cause it started leaking. It still had the red, plastic-strip screw covers on it. The window frame was in pretty good shape, too. Gonna do all of 'em eventually, but this is the first one that's leaked.  I always wrap aluminum tape over the wall frame, from skin to paneling, so that any future leaks cannot enter the wall, and have to either run down the outside skin or the inside face of the paneling where you can see them before they do any damage. Same with roof vents, stink vents, water connections etc. Whatever tape sticks out after the window's back in gets trimmed so it doesn't show.  Howard the cyclops. Haven't trimmed the two tapes yet, I'll do it when it's cold so the knife doesn't drag the putty tape. I used 1" #8 stainless screws, all the 40 year-old screw holes worked fine.  Had the furnace goin', kept it 72 inside even with the window out. Only drew 2 amps.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 23, 2013 15:26:27 GMT -8
Edit: Thanks for movin' this over here, Vik. Finished taping the foremost roof seam today, only two left out of five (and the bathroom roof vent to reseal)! I want to get them done before it gets too cold to tape, it was only in the 50s today (75 in the camper  , but it was 35 when I got to work at 4 am. I was pretty sure there were no leaks in the seams before, but now I know there aren't.  I'm not bothering with getting off the crap outside of the taped areas yet, I can do that any time, and the crap at the edges isn't thick enough to pool any water. My parking spot is off-grid, so I use my trusty little $150, 800-watt generator to run the power tools. Everything inside the camper is running off batteries and the solar panel. It was keeping the battery fully charged even while running the furnace and the boom box. I haven't had to run the gennie for anything but power tools since I installed the panel. I am so loving my solar panel, and thank you Solarbob (the crackpot) for the great, comprehensive article that I used to get it right!  After using the heat gun and the painter's tool to get the heaviest crap off, I took a Scotchbrite wheel to the remaining crap:  Then palm-sanded and wiped down with acetone:  Then the 4" Eternabond tape, it needs to be rolled with good pressure to activate the adhesive (I suspect not rolling it, or not preparing the surface well enough, is the prime cause of people having the tape come up at the edges). Got the roller at Sherwin Williams for ten bucks, it's made for doing wallpaper seams, and is so much easier than using a deep socket like I did on the first two seams:  Also put new tarps on the roof for winter. They last about six months up here before they disintegrate into tiny flakes.
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Post by vikx on Oct 23, 2013 21:13:45 GMT -8
Looks good Cowcharge! I think you're right about Eternabond, prep and rolling. It also depends on the weather. Horrible Hot desert type climes don't mix well with much of anything.
Another thought: not sure I would use Eternabond around the vent. They do eventually need repair. The sticky part of Eternabond is not fun to remove...
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 24, 2013 10:37:32 GMT -8
Looks good Cowcharge! I think you're right about Eternabond, prep and rolling. It also depends on the weather. Horrible Hot desert type climes don't mix well with much of anything. Another thought: not sure I would use Eternabond around the vent. They do eventually need repair. The sticky part of Eternabond is not fun to remove... I may give this it's own Thread, if it's OK with you... Sure VIK, use it in any way you wish (other than to get rich and famous). There are tricks that I learned from doing this that I didn't include for brevity's sake (also because most of you guys seem to get new roofs) that I can add in comments, if you want. Oh and there are two more pics earlier in this thread, if you didn't see them before. Roof vent: Not planning on using Eternabond there, I shoulda made that clear. Just my normal resealing (I just included it because it and the two remaining seams are the last bits of sealing to do on the roof): I use continuous aluminum tape from the topside skin outside the edges of the vent, down the inside of the vent and wrapping "under" the ceiling panel (to keep any leaks out of the roof framing), and plain ol' putty tape. My single biggest camper expense all year was buying a cord of firewood for my camper's landlady.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 25, 2013 13:08:26 GMT -8
Here's some things I've learned using Eternabond tape. It comes with really good instructions, so it's easy to use if you're careful, but some stuff that you should know isn't in the instructions.
Thoroughly clean the roof for miles around the seam (but don't leave any water or solvents in the cracks of the seam), dust the trees, give the neighborhood squirrels a bath, and wash your hands as clean as you can get 'em before you pick up the roll of tape. The tape is kind of sticky/rubbery on the surface too, and dirty fingerprints stay there.
It has a clear plastic backing tape covering the adhesive. What I do is lay it out along the seam with the backing still on, and cut it so it overhangs each end by about an inch, so it will wrap under the J-rail and cover every inch of the roof seam. The edges will stick to the roof even with the backing on, so you can't really slide it around much. It also comes with two waxy paper circles that cover the sides of the roll. Only take them off to unroll the tape right before you cut it, then put the circles back on and put the roll away. If you set the roll down on anything without the paper side covers, it'll stick. If you don't catch it quick, I'm not sure you could get it off the roof.
It's very stretchy and rubbery and sticks hard, so you have to put it in the right place the first try. Peeling it back off is possible only if you haven't pressed it down in the slightest yet. And I mean slightest. A spot the size of a dime will stretch that tape out of shape if you try to pull it off.
Once the tape is cut and lying on the seam, I work a foot or so at a time, peeling and sticking it down. I use my right hand to hold up the point where the backing is folded back, and my left hand to slide from the last stuck-down part to my right hand, only on the raised center of the seam, which is covered by about a third of the tape. If you're careful going from the end of the last section to the backing tape, you can get it all to stick to the center without trapping any air bubbles, while leaving the outer two-thirds of the tape unstuck. The instructions tell you how to handle bubbles if you get them. The important thing is to get the center stuck down enough not to move, but leave the rest of tape loose enough to move. You can't keep the outer parts from touching, but if they only touch, they can still move a bit in the next step.
Here's the hard part to describe. Once that foot of center is down, I take the fingertips of both hands like I'm trying to hang on to one side of the seam for dear life while someone tows me down the road, and using just the very tips of all eight fingers at once (practically just the nails), I tuck the tape into the corner between the raised part and the rest of the roof. Just try to get the tape tightly wrapped over the edge of the raised center and tucked tightly into the corner at the bottom, without pressing the outer thirds of the tape down. If only the higher center of the tape is stuck down and the lower sides of the tape are still loose, you can pull the tape closer to the center, rather than stretching it into the corner, which might let it "cut the corner" and leave a little triangular tunnel underneath the length of the tape. If all that gibberish makes sense.
Once it's tight in the corner on one side, I smooth that side of the tape away from the center out to the edge, being careful not to get any wrinkles in it. If you're careful you can get it down without any wrinkles or air bubbles, but again, they can be fixed, so don't try to pull it back off. Then I tuck and smooth the other side.
Then I start over with the next foot or so, peeling the backing off underneath, lifting and stretching, and sticking it down. Then the next foot, and so on. A little wrinkle forms across the width of the tape on every segment, right where the backing curls under, but stretching the next foot pulls it out. If you pull too hard, you'll see it wrinkle lengthwise.
When I reach the other end, I fold the extra at the ends down over the side of the camper and press them down tight.
Once the whole length of tape has been pressed down with fairly good hand pressure again, enough to make sure it's down everywhere and not going to move, I take the roller and go over it good. I roll the whole length of the top first, then one side, then the other side, making sure to get down in the corner good. And that's it!
It's wicked sticky stuff, ayuh. But in every other way, it's very flexible and forgiving. It'll bend 'n' stretch like you wish masking tape would do when you're trying to mask a curve on a paint job.
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Moses
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Post by Moses on Nov 17, 2013 22:15:38 GMT -8
Quick question if I may. I am about to replace the roof on my 66 Shasta, and was wondering about the Eternabond tape. Is that all that is needed , or does there need to be some kind of elastomeric coating on top? Thanks for any help. This is my first trailer.....I got all brave. I should have my head examined maybe.....
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Post by vikx on Nov 17, 2013 23:49:59 GMT -8
Never GOOP the roof! If your seams are good, you won't need to seal them. Personally, Eternabond is a last resort on a vintage trailer. It will stick too GOOD.
With a new roof, the seams should be factory sealed with no further action needed. New putty is needed under the edge trim/J rails.
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Moses
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Post by Moses on Nov 18, 2013 10:28:32 GMT -8
Thanks for bearing with me guys and gals. Being a newbie to vintage trailers, I am bound to continue asking dumb questions. I was under the impression that the seams needed some kind of treatment, even though it's brand spankin' new. Not true, eh?? I have the butyl tape in my possession for the j-rails, and am just trying not to miss a step here somewhere.
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Post by vikx on Nov 18, 2013 22:16:36 GMT -8
Our Corvette has a new roof, no sealant on the seams, no leaks. I would leave it alone. Of course, every trailer should be inspected yearly for damage. There's always the possibility a SMALL amount of sealant may be necessary.
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Moses
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Post by Moses on Nov 19, 2013 9:07:58 GMT -8
Thanks much vikx........I learn a little every day.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Nov 19, 2013 10:04:19 GMT -8
The problem with using any kind of sealant to repair a roof leak is this. When traveling, the roof ripples and vibrates from the wind. So it is in constant motion. Once the sealant starts to harden or dry out it cracks or separates from the skin. Shrinking also occurs. Not the sealant itself, but the metal. As Steve Loomis pointed out in one of my Metal Skin videos, as the metal skin heats up and cools down, it shrinks and expands. After a little time with this happening, the sealant is separated from the skin itself causing the leak to reappear. Now you know the rest of the story... 
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Nov 22, 2013 13:56:45 GMT -8
Moved the Roof thread to it's own Topic: New Roof TIPS Thanks for keeping up with us Vikx...
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Moses
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Post by Moses on Dec 3, 2013 16:12:50 GMT -8
Hey.......have you installed the new roof yet? Was curious to know if the video was up yet........
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 12, 2013 8:58:06 GMT -8
Hey.......have you installed the new roof yet? Was curious to know if the video was up yet........ I'm getting there Moses. Ran into some other things that needed attention right away due to our unusual rain fall lately. We normally don't get back to back storms till February. That's our rainy season. Sorry about the delay. A little more framing, some electrical and then insulation and "condensation" barrier and then I can get the lid on it.
The roof sit's near my front door haunting me every day LOL...

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Moses
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Post by Moses on Dec 29, 2013 19:49:14 GMT -8
I am getting dangerously close to attempting this roof feat.......as my new roof is laying nearby haunting me as well. I hope I haven't missed anything..........
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