sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 19, 2020 6:36:26 GMT -8
We are purchasing the bolts for our subfloor today.
T-nuts and full thread hex bolts for the exposed (not under a cabinet) area of the floor and carriage bolts for the hidden areas of the floor.
I am seeing zinc plated steel and stainless steel options.
The holes in our chassis are 5/16 in. so we will need to go with 1/4 in size bolts.
Any ideas if the zinc plated or stainless are stronger? More weather resistant?
Thanks!
Gwen
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Jul 19, 2020 7:54:22 GMT -8
Stainless bolts would be stronger, and non-rusting. If you use stainless make sure to use anti-seize compound on the threads. If they gall the least bit the nut will lock up on the threads and you can't tighten it all the way, and you won;t be able to remove it. They have to be cut off, which might present a real problem not to mention wasting expensive hardware.
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Post by vikx on Jul 19, 2020 9:04:59 GMT -8
If the holes are 5/16, you should use 5/16 bolts. Clean the holes with a 5/16 drill bit if necessary. 1/4 bolts are not strong enough.
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sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 19, 2020 10:57:15 GMT -8
If the holes are 5/16, you should use 5/16 bolts. Clean the holes with a 5/16 drill bit if necessary. 1/4 bolts are not strong enough. I was worried about that. If I am going through the chassis, cleaning up the holes, does it make sense to use a 3/8 in bit so we can use 3/8th bolts? |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 19, 2020 12:01:55 GMT -8
These are great for the floor.
In places I use Grade 5 bolts carriage bolts on the floor. They are very strong but not stainless steel.
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 19, 2020 13:04:27 GMT -8
These are great for the floor.
In places I use Grade 5 bolts carriage bolts on the floor. They are very strong but not stainless steel.
First of all, let me say, I have the utmost respect for NCCamper, but I need some clarification. It feels wierd to question him.  BTW, is there a typo in the last sentence of the quote above? Seems like there are some extra words making it hard to follow. Go with me for a second. Floor joists are typically a little more than 3" tall because C - channel is @ that height (in most cases, I believe). In a typical vintage trailer floor, those pieces of plywood are bolted to the top of the floor joists and carriage bolts run all the way through the top plywood, through the floor joists and finally through the steel outriggers on the sides or the steel crossmembers (center floor joist only). So, that means the 2" elevator bolts are only for attaching the plywood to the top of the C- channel because they will never make it through a floor joist. They just aren't long enough. Correct me if I am wrong. Seems like the above description for building a floor would be enough. Do we really need the elevator bolts? Aren't there already enough points of connection? The plywood is sitting on the C- channel anyway, why should it be fastened to it? Most trailers have three floor joists with one down the middle, and some have 2 down the middle instead of 1. If I was blocking my floor, would I still need elevator bolts or do we only need them if we aren't blocking the floor? Rod |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 19, 2020 14:10:47 GMT -8
Fixed the typo. I have different length elevator bolts. I’ve used them a couple of ways. A nice option where the tile may bubble or where you have a squeak after installing the subfloor. Overkill? It’s your call. Another question you might ask, does anybody need Grade 5? Since I’ve had softer bolts break off, I like harder metal. Overkill? Again, your call. I had one camper with half the bolts sheered off and the body stayed on. So you might also ask how many are actually needed. I probably put too many bolts on which does cost an extra $20.
Regular carriage bolts in the usual places work well.
VTT is all about options. |
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 19, 2020 15:08:20 GMT -8
Thank you, NC
Rod
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sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 19, 2020 17:35:54 GMT -8
Another question you might ask, does anybody need Grade 5? Since I’ve had softer bolts break off, I like harder metal. Overkill? Again, your call. I had one camper with half the bolts sheered off and the body stayed on. So you might also ask how many are actually needed. I probably put too many bolts on which does cost an extra $20.
Regular carriage bolts in the usual places work well.
VTT is all about options. Thank you so much to everyone for this discussion. Your expertise is so helpful. The grade of the metal is exactly what I am concerned about. I double checked, the original bolts were 1/4 inch (1959 Shasta Airflyte) and went down through the plywood, the soundboard material, the joists and the chassis. They were rusty and needed to be cut off, but they were all in tact. I am concerned that 1/4 in bolts today will not be strong enough (which Vikx also mentioned) but feel a bit intimidated to redrill all the holes in the chassis for bigger bolts. I plan to use t-nuts and bolts (very similar in concept to the elevator bolts) in the areas not covered by cabinets and regular carriage bolts in the areas that are hidden. I have found zinc covered steel and stainless steel options on line but there is almost no information about how strong they are. Gwen |
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Post by vikx on Jul 19, 2020 21:04:14 GMT -8
If the holes are 5/16, you should use 5/16 bolts. Clean the holes with a 5/16 drill bit if necessary. 1/4 bolts are not strong enough. I was worried about that. If I am going through the chassis, cleaning up the holes, does it make sense to use a 3/8 in bit so we can use 3/8th bolts? I would use 5/16 as originally intended. 3/8 could weaken the frame. |
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sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 20, 2020 2:50:47 GMT -8
That's good news! Thank you! |
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Jul 20, 2020 7:36:44 GMT -8
If you peruse a McMaster-Carr catalog you will find an area that describes tinsel strength of hardware. Elevator bolts should also be available thru them, even in Stainless steel. Much higher tinsel value than mils steel.
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sunnywater
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 20, 2020 9:15:16 GMT -8
If you peruse a McMaster-Carr catalog you will find an area that describes tinsel strength of hardware. Elevator bolts should also be available thru them, even in Stainless steel. Much higher tinsel value than mils steel. Thank you, I will go look. That is very helpful. Gwen |
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BTW, is there a typo in the last sentence of the quote above? Seems like there are some extra words making it hard to follow.