tpcm5000
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Yellowstone 1966
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Post by tpcm5000 on Jun 11, 2020 11:22:08 GMT -8
As I remove the skins on my Yellowstone I see I have two layers of butyl at the seams. It looks like they put butyl in between the overlap seam, and then of course between the jrail and the camper. The jrail butyl is completely dried out but the butyl in the seam is more tar-like. I assume it is still butyly and simply did not dry out but is there some other product they used back then on the seam to seal it? Should I do the same, for example add butly between the seam and staple, then add butly on the jrail before attaching? Larry may have answered this in one of his videos but I cannot find it now. Is butyl on the jrail only sufficient?  doublebutly by Tom Myers, on Flickr |
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Post by danrhodes on Jun 11, 2020 16:29:34 GMT -8
Some folks do that and if your camper was made for it, do what they did. I tried and my overhang was too small and I made a big mess, so shot a little butyl caulking in there for good measure (don't do that).
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 11, 2020 19:01:30 GMT -8
I've tried the double approach too without good results. Too thick. I dab a little (very little) gutter seal on staples and at key overlap areas before putting on the putty and jrail.
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Post by ramblingamblinman on Jun 12, 2020 18:18:15 GMT -8
As I remove the skins on my Yellowstone I see I have two layers of butyl at the seams. It looks like they put butyl in between the overlap seam, and then of course between the jrail and the camper. The jrail butyl is completely dried out but the butyl in the seam is more tar-like. I assume it is still butyly and simply did not dry out but is there some other product they used back then on the seam to seal it? doublebutly by Tom Myers, on Flickr Our '63 Holiday Rambler had a similar construction. On the wood framing was a black, tar like butyl tape. Very sticky and hard to remove. The roof and skins did not have overlap or fold-over. This sealed that seam. Then there was traditional putty tape under the edge molding. I call it edge molding because it was a little different shape than traditional J-rail. We built it back the same way. I found both types of butyl on Amazon. One mistake I made was using a single layer of the grey putty under the edge molding on the vertical surfaces. I had spots between the ribs that didn't seal. Had to pull it apart (again!!!) And redo it with little pieces in the low spots between the ribs to get a good seal. |
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Post by vikx on Jun 13, 2020 20:01:04 GMT -8
I haven't been able to make the putty under the flap work either. It is just too bulky. Under J rail, I use RV putty tape (they call it butyl but it is a mixture; it is not pure butyl) after gutter sealing the divots and staples. No leaks so far.
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Post by bnellie2000 on Jul 24, 2021 8:36:06 GMT -8
I haven't been able to make the putty under the flap work either. It is just too bulky. Under J rail, I use RV putty tape (they call it butyl but it is a mixture; it is not pure butyl) after gutter sealing the divots and staples. No leaks so far. Where do you find that? I hoped to get the caulk putty tape from vintage trailer gaskets but, man, the shipping is a lot! |
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Post by vikx on Jul 24, 2021 10:23:47 GMT -8
Most RV shops carry RV "butyl" putty tape; it's sticky with crinkly white paper. Pure butyl is sometimes available (search "butyl tape") at RV shops or online. It is usually grey with slick tan paper. Either putty should be STICKY at purchase. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866448944/in/album-72157711234756182/" title="Putty Tapes (1)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4098/34866448944_b8963a924f_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Putty Tapes (1)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> I usually use 1/8 x 3/4 RV putty tape on windows. edge trim (J rail) seals better with 1"+ width. There's a little more waste but it seals the "undergap" if that makes sense. That's not the top, but underneath. Once the screws are tightened, the putty should ooze out the top and under. Tacky Tape is a pure butyl product sold at roofing companies. I get 1/2 x 1/16 rolls and use it on close fit flanges. (cargo door trim and other items that need to fit fairly flush) Also, if your trailer has a pattern in the skin, be sure to add extra putty in the dips as you install inlets and lights. I use pure butyl tape in areas I suspect might be prone to leaking. It's very sticky but also seals without drying out. For instance, my Shasta has L trim rather than J rail. It wraps over butted metal. I sealed all the divots and flaws with OSI Gutter Seal. Once the gutter seal was dry, I installed the L trim with pure butyl. NOTE: pure butyl is best used sparingly. It will continue to ooze in very hot weather and can actually slip out of gaps. It's good stuff, but a person needs to choose between the two putty types. RV "butyl" putty also seals well and stays put better than pure butyl... |
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DayDreamer
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1955 Aljoa & 1960 Oasis
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Post by DayDreamer on Aug 5, 2021 14:22:28 GMT -8
I can get this through Ace Hardware. Called them about what it is made of and the only thing the guy could find was the word butyl. It does have the crinkly paper.
Says RV putty tape.
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Post by vikx on Aug 5, 2021 14:26:08 GMT -8
Beware buying putty from hardware stores! It MUST BE STICKY to be any good and many rolls are just too old. Try to purchase in person from a store that would have a fairly quick turnover. If it's not sticky, it's no good.
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DayDreamer
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1955 Aljoa & 1960 Oasis
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Post by DayDreamer on Aug 5, 2021 14:51:50 GMT -8
Yay! found it at a local RV store. Had to call back because the first time I asked for Rv Caulking Putty tape and she told me it was butyl tape but when I called back and asked what it looked like and did it have crinkly paper she said no it has smooth paper but I have one with crinkly paper. So the one she has is gray with crinkly paper which is what I need. 🤣🤪
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