catherine
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Currently Offline
|
Post by catherine on May 9, 2019 10:16:56 GMT -8
Hello, Purchased Globestar Lil Hobo 1970 17' Model M-17FK for $400 so you know it's a project trailer. Towing it 20 miles to house drove between 45-50 mph with no issues on the road. I have owned many RVs and trailers both for family farms and pleasure so have experience driving trailers and was surprised how well it did but it was just for 20 miles. It's raw and will be a project interior especially but there are lots of things on exterior also that need fixed or replaced. Have searched online for layout of this trailer when it was new but cannot find anything as I guess Globestar was not as popular of brand as the Shastas, etc. If anyone has any information on the Globestar Lil Hobo layout, I would really appreciate any information. I joined the Canned Ham live video forum so will be watching a bunch of those before starting anything. Going to try to upload a few photos to show the trailer but need to make an account on photobucket or whatever site need to upload photos to if cannot do it directly as post attachment. Thanks for reading this post and I am glad to have found this great forum full of advice! Link for photobucket from yesterday: s1250.photobucket.com/user/CGlobstar70/slideshow/1970%20Globestar%20Lil%20Hobo%20Model%2017FKCatherine |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 9, 2019 21:27:06 GMT -8
Welcome Catherine.
Your trailer is cute and I'm so sorry someone gutted it. It makes the repairs 3X more difficult. Be sure to lift the skins and repair the rot below floor level as well as the wooden edges up and over the top before proceeding. Vintage trailers should be repaired from the outside and there's lots of info and help here.
|
|
jeremiah
Active Member
Posts: 274 
Likes: 36
Currently Offline
|
Post by jeremiah on May 10, 2019 3:14:05 GMT -8
Welcome Catherine. Your trailer is Cute. It is a great size to easily pull on a weekend adventure or longer trip. Although it needs a lot of work to get it to back up to use for those Adventures, It will be so much fun and rewarding to do it the way you want. However you choose to design it. Structure strength is very important, after that I think you will really enjoy the personal touches you put into it. Best wishes on your new Adventure.
|
|
catherine
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Currently Offline
|
Post by catherine on May 10, 2019 22:03:32 GMT -8
Thank you all for responding. Time will tell what happens with the trailer but really just want simple interior and safe exterior for towing not total vintage. I have other trailers but they are are large toy haulers, enclosed and farm trailers. So for the price thought would give it basic remodel not fancy real vintage glamper. If it works out great and if not just use frame for something else. I have heap with basic remodel so keeping fingers crossed. Thanks for your encouragement. Catherine
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 10, 2019 22:54:26 GMT -8
To tow this trailer, you still need to lift the skins and check for rot. The body is attached thru the floor with bolts. If the outside attachments are compromised, the body could be left behind on the road. Remodeling is fine, not vintage is fine, but proper repairs are paramount for your safety and others on the road. Here is an example of what can happen when the body separates; notice the rot at the wheel well panel. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35275270380/in/dateposted-public/" title="Pink Disaster"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4262/35275270380_721b3267b6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Pink Disaster"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> |
|
catherine
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Currently Offline
|
Post by catherine on May 11, 2019 12:55:22 GMT -8
Hello, Thanks for responding. Yes, you are right! I intend to read this forum and other information sites before starting anything. I would never have driven it home if it were not all back roads and was watching the trailer on both sides as was my passenger.
I am not starting anything until further research and only then will begin. It will definitely need to be reframed, etc. and will do it with my friend slowly as not in a hurry for camper. I have large toy hauler with the front living area. This camper is just for vending at markets and maybe little overnight camping. The inside will not be totally vintage as not going for the total glamper look but just basics ... sleeping area, small electric stovetop with two burners, very small refrigerator and if possible portable air conditioner/heater. My friend who was electrician for 30 years at industrial facility will be doing all wiring and anything having to do with electric system. I would rather not carry the weight of water tank so have not decided on that yet. I will not be using it off the grid as use other trailers for trips where no hookups.
The thing which is confusing to me after reading a lot of posts about framing, etc. is some people pull up the skin with hydraulic lift to work on frame. So, I don't know if should do that and can as have access to that type of thing at a friend's auto/body shop. But, then some people posting pull up one rear/front or side skin and work that way. If you know the best way to work on the framing to replace the rotten wood, I would really appreciate any advice as to your experience.
The floor will need to be replaced as I am not comfortable with just patching even if it looks okay in some areas. I realize it is not an easy project but am old enough to know to seek professional help on things I cannot do which are necessary for safety of the trailer but most importantly anyone driving next to me on the highway.
Thanks again for responding and appreciate this forum.
Catherine
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 11, 2019 20:10:45 GMT -8
Hi Catherine,
I've never used a hydraulic lift for the skin nor have I seen it done. It's certainly not necessary and I don't believe any VTT member has. It's very easy to remove the skin in pieces; front and rear first, then straighten the edge bend. Do the same to the roof after you pull the million tiny staples and nails. The side skins on this type of trailer usually come off from the bottom up, (more nails and staples) The bottom slips down out of the pittsburg seam of the next piece up. There are staples on the lip of that piece; remove and that piece will slip down and so on.
Basic order of the build:
1. Remove windows, doors and other protrusions, including the roof vent. Remove the edge trim (J rail, awning rail and siding trim)
2. Pull nails and staples and straighten any bent edging. This is critical so the front/rear/roof skin won't split when you move it.
3.Remove the front and rear skins and loosen the roof. You may or may not have to remove the roof to do repairs.
4. Next comes the siding and you're ready to start reframing.
You will also need to be careful to add enough cabinetry to support the walls and roof. Almost all trailers have a tall closet and a kitchenette. Both add a lot of structural support. Be aware of weight distribution when you configure the interior. Just looking at vintage floor plans will help you plan.
I recommend you watch Mobiltec's videos and consider my book. Both will help you see that this is not rocket science to rebuild a vintage trailer. You can do this!
Last thought: Stay away from Facebook!
|
|
