drg
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Post by drg on Jan 30, 2019 11:10:31 GMT -8
Hello Folks, The jack on our little Aljoa is in pretty sad shape. It is very difficult to turn the handle to move it up and down. I'd say it is close to being seized up. I read somewhere the description of how to take the jack apart and fix it by welding on a new acme thread nut. This is within my capabilities. But that description had the top cap as being "pressed on". Such that it could be popped off. However, on our trailer the top cap is welded on, whether from the factory or subsequently. How does on go about dissembling this Aljoa jack? Here are some pics: Any input would be appreciated. Gustave
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Post by bigbill on Jan 30, 2019 17:43:10 GMT -8
I don't know, I usually just replace them but if you remove rivet and handle will it drop out the bottom some do.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 30, 2019 19:08:03 GMT -8
"It is very difficult to turn the handle to move it up and down. I'd say it is close to being seized up."
I would put some wheel bearing grease on the bottom shaft. As it is lowered some of the grease will make it inside the jack. This helped for me.
If that doesn't work I'd just replace it if possible.
Remembered to remove excess grease.
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drg
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Post by drg on Jan 31, 2019 10:40:25 GMT -8
Thanks folks for the replies. I prefer not to replace it. Obviously I will if that turns out to be the only choice. But there must be a way to take this thing apart no? Maybe welding on the top cap was sort of a "permanent" assembly technique. If that is so, I could just cut it off, check things out, and if it can be repaired then weld the cap back on. I like the patina it has now. And if it is original, well then I'd like to keep that too if possible.
Gustave
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 31, 2019 17:46:28 GMT -8
Thanks folks for the replies. I prefer not to replace it. Obviously I will if that turns out to be the only choice. But there must be a way to take this thing apart no? Maybe welding on the top cap was sort of a "permanent" assembly technique. If that is so, I could just cut it off, check things out, and if it can be repaired then weld the cap back on. I like the patina it has now. And if it is original, well then I'd like to keep that too if possible. Gustave Be very careful when working on this thing. When I tried to fix one the nut gave out and the tongue just dropped with a crash. Right at the end of my toes. Luckily I never allow my feet to be under the frame because jacks fail.
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drg
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Post by drg on Jan 31, 2019 18:57:08 GMT -8
Thanks folks for the replies. I prefer not to replace it. Obviously I will if that turns out to be the only choice. But there must be a way to take this thing apart no? Maybe welding on the top cap was sort of a "permanent" assembly technique. If that is so, I could just cut it off, check things out, and if it can be repaired then weld the cap back on. I like the patina it has now. And if it is original, well then I'd like to keep that too if possible. Gustave Be very careful when working on this thing. When I tried to fix one the nut gave out and the tongue just dropped with a crash. Right at the end of my toes. Luckily I never allow my feet to be under the frame because jacks fail. Ok, wise advice. Btw, where would one buy a new one of these, just out of curiosity? Gustave
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Jan 31, 2019 19:25:08 GMT -8
There is a good tutorial on the Serro Scotty website (https://nationalserroscotty.org/) on removal and replacement of the jack using only an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, and also sources for hard to find jack sizes.. Scotty's is smaller diameter than what is used most often these days. Etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Jack.aspx)has a good selection too.
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drg
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Post by drg on Feb 1, 2019 10:26:57 GMT -8
There is a good tutorial on the Serro Scotty website (https://nationalserroscotty.org/) on removal and replacement of the jack using only an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, and also sources for hard to find jack sizes.. Scotty's is smaller diameter than what is used most often these days. Etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Jack.aspx)has a good selection too. OK, thank you for that. Gustave
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Feb 1, 2019 14:48:02 GMT -8
Being so old it could be worn out too and near failing. I am not discounting that.
But it might just need lubricating. I have one on my car trailer that gets stiff and every year or two I squirt oil in around the shaft under the handle and mine has a oil holes on the side so I squirt some in there too. Works like a new one till the oil dries up.
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 2, 2019 6:13:00 GMT -8
Hi Gustave, Let me see an image of the collar from the side, please. Does it look like the one pictured below? This is my old jack with the old tongue, now cut off. I may be able to help you out. I just pulled the pictured jack off my old tongue. I just sprayed PB blaster on the collar bolts, and pulled it out. There is a cotter pin underneath that keeps it from coming all the way out. It moves up and down nicely. I also have a steel insert(nut) that a machine shop made for me that fits the threading of corkscrew shaft. The piece has a tab that sticks out with two holes in it so it can be bolted into the collar. The piece was milled from solid steel. BTW, I still have the entire tongue. If the jack is the same, since you are a fabricator, may I suggest you could use the entire coupler by cutting it off. and welding on the one I have. That collar from the top on your jack looks all tweaked. What do I know, LOL? Cheers, Rod
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Feb 2, 2019 11:56:04 GMT -8
You should be able to remove the pin that holds the handle on and the assembly comes out the bottom. You definitely want to check the threaded nut and rod. Mine finally stripped out after 50+ years and the tongue dropped. Screw rod was good. Nut was stripped. Looked into repairing it by either having a machine shop make a new nut or swapping guts from a newer jack. Finally decided the safest/cost effective way was buy a new one. I saved my vintage one in case I find the parts, but for now, I need to use my trailer.
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drg
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Post by drg on Feb 2, 2019 19:00:12 GMT -8
You should be able to remove the pin that holds the handle on and the assembly comes out the bottom. You definitely want to check the threaded nut and rod. Mine finally stripped out after 50+ years and the tongue dropped. Screw rod was good. Nut was stripped. Looked into repairing it by either having a machine shop make a new nut or swapping guts from a newer jack. Finally decided the safest/cost effective way was buy a new one. I saved my vintage one in case I find the parts, but for now, I need to use my trailer. I read somewhere someone who rebuilt his jack saying that the threads are just ACME style. If that is true then the nuts are readily available: www.mcmaster.com/acme-nutsMaybe that is not true of all jacks. When I get time I will grind off the pin holding on the handle and see if anything "drops out" on my jack or not. Gustave
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drg
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Post by drg on Feb 2, 2019 19:01:26 GMT -8
Thanks Rod, for the for the offer. I'll take a pic tomorrow or Monday and post it.
Gustave
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jeremiah
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Post by jeremiah on Feb 3, 2019 6:05:24 GMT -8
I had a Jack that acted seized up. I soaked it with oil. Worked it back and forth. It still works well today. I put oil in a squeeze bottle and applied it
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Post by bigbill on Feb 3, 2019 13:56:12 GMT -8
You should be able to remove the pin that holds the handle on and the assembly comes out the bottom. You definitely want to check the threaded nut and rod. Mine finally stripped out after 50+ years and the tongue dropped. Screw rod was good. Nut was stripped. Looked into repairing it by either having a machine shop make a new nut or swapping guts from a newer jack. Finally decided the safest/cost effective way was buy a new one. I saved my vintage one in case I find the parts, but for now, I need to use my trailer. chriss I think if you look at the top of this post he was already told to do this, but may be he will try it this time.
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