smac75
Junior Member
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
Currently Offline
|
Post by smac75 on Oct 1, 2018 4:22:00 GMT -8
Well, here we are. Figured it was easier to paint the roof while it's off. I've now lost my dining room (and my mind I think!). I had no intention of stripping off the old latex paint but since I had some Citristrip lying around I couldn't help trying out a little test spot and 24 hours later I was amazed how easy the paint just came off. So I slathered on a ton more on the two ends that will wrap down over the front and back (not bothering with the top, flat part, i'll just paint over the bit of old paint remaining). Then last night I went down the hole of post-stripper wash and now i'm concerned about removing all of the Citristrip residue in order for my new, rolled oil-based Rustoleum to adhere properly. What do you recommend for after wash? I'd like to try to do it inside my house where it lies now instead of dragging it back outside to wash. Will denatured alcohol on rags suffice? Dawn dish soap? Mineral spirits? All of these are my first choice since they are suitable for indoor use but thought i'd look for opinions. Thank you! (PS. I am just going for a cleaner look, not perfect by any means). Pretty cool surprise I found after removing the 4 layers of paint! I'm going to try to paint the logo back to the way it was and leave this emblem bare metal with white lettering. I believe this is the way it came.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,930
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Oct 1, 2018 16:51:27 GMT -8
Be careful not to drip CitrusStrip on the floor. That would be tragic.
Working outside, I wipe down the skin with Lacquer thinner then wipe it down with denatured alcohol. I was told years ago to avoid anything with even a slight oily element like mineral spirits. As you know, any residue will keep paint from bonding to the skin. A side note, double check that your primer will adhere to non-ferrous metal.
|
|
aslmx
1K Member
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 367
Currently Offline
|
Post by aslmx on Oct 1, 2018 17:20:12 GMT -8
Lol. My wife would divorce me if she came home to this.
|
|
smac75
Junior Member
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
Currently Offline
|
Post by smac75 on Oct 1, 2018 17:52:57 GMT -8
Be careful not to drip CitrusStrip on the floor. That would be tragic.
Working outside, I wipe down the skin with Lacquer thinner then wipe it down with denatured alcohol. I was told years ago to avoid anything with even a slight oily element like mineral spirits. As you know, any residue will keep paint from bonding to the skin. A side note, double check that your primer will adhere to non-ferrous metal.
I ended up putting another tarp down at the other end to avoid getting any stripper on the floor. You think my oil based rusto may not stick to the metal? It said it does but not non-ferrous metal in particular. First I've heard of the term! Off to google! Can you recommend a primer for under the rusto? Thanks!
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,930
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Oct 1, 2018 18:35:38 GMT -8
I ended up putting another tarp down at the other end to avoid getting any stripper on the floor. You think my oil based rusto may not stick to the metal? It said it does but not non-ferrous metal in particular. First I've heard of the term! Off to google! Can you recommend a primer for under the rusto? Thanks! Others with more experience using Rustoleum will chime in. I've used oil enamel made by Ace. They made a primer for non-ferrous metal--- aluminum. See below.
I would call Rusto tech support number and ask which primer they make would work best.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Oct 1, 2018 19:53:35 GMT -8
I've had some VERY BAD LUCK with paint after stripping the metal...
I would clean it with some kind of non oily solvent, then lightly sand the entire roof. I use rattle can primer (horror story of quart primer peeling), usually automotive lighter grey primer. Then another light sand. A quick wipe with solvent again and you're ready to paint.
Be sure to buy solvent that is safe for the final wipe before paint. I believe lacquer thinner would be fine, or even acetone. Just something to wipe the dust. I've used tack cloths and that worked as well.
|
|
smac75
Junior Member
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
Currently Offline
|
Post by smac75 on Oct 2, 2018 3:23:06 GMT -8
Thank you both. I'm going to call Rustoleum today just to see what they recommend.
|
|
smac75
Junior Member
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
Currently Offline
|
Post by smac75 on Oct 2, 2018 16:29:28 GMT -8
FYI Rustoleum tech support recommended Bulls Eye 1-2-3 as a primer for oil-based Rustoleum on non-ferrous metal.
|
|
CorvettCrzy
Full Member
Posts: 935
Likes: 273
'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
Currently Offline
|
Post by CorvettCrzy on Oct 2, 2018 16:57:43 GMT -8
Interesting. Might I just add that when cleaning the skin before paint, be very careful to get in all the little creases. It's very disappointing to have a great paint job and peeling paint in a little crease.
|
|