CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Jul 7, 2018 19:30:10 GMT -8
So right before we left on our adventure west we realized that we hadn't tested the water system - yeah, I know. We had talked about it several times and gotten distracted by other jobs. So we put the hose on and water sprays out of the sides of the connection, (and behind the skin, the husband swears, not sure). So he tightens the hose/inlet joint with pliers and we find a leak on the inside, because I had only hand tightened when I installed. So he tightens it all up and I attach hose again and again I get spray out the sides of the inlet. I tighten with pliers and it stops. Everything seems ok. We get to the campground and hook up the new water hose, can't get it tight enough not to spray not even with pliers, and we go without city water the entire trip. I installed the backflow valve directly onto the inlet. We are wondering if that is the problem? Any thoughts before I tear it apart? I'm thinking of just taking it out completely. (My husband thinks it's a problem with the inlet but when a hose is tightened down it doesn't wiggle). Oh and we tried a different washer (hose), didn't work. Here's a pic of its location of the valve. Sat by Corvett crzy, on Flickr Inlet Busy weekend by Corvett crzy, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Jul 7, 2018 20:26:04 GMT -8
Here's what I would do: remove the inlet from the trailer side. It should pull out enough to disconnect the inside water line. If it won't, disconnect at the other end. You have to get it completely loose from the trailer.
Once you've got it out, do a bench test for leaks. There are several reasons that the inlet will leak. One is that the inlet or check valve may be faulty. The first thing to do is remove the check valve. (some are not removable, so be sure which it is) Attach a hose and regulator to the inlet. Cap or plug the output. Turn on the hose and see if it leaks or not.
If the inlet leaks, it is most likely faulty. If it holds, then it is OK.
NOTE: Use tape on the threads and teflon pipe thread goop over that if you have to re-insert the check valve or on any other pipe threads. Depending on the type of fittings used, some do not need sealants. (the type with rubber gaskets or flared fittings)
At this point, connect a line to the inlet. You can use the line in the trailer if you have leeway to pull it out far enough. Otherwise, a new line and fitting would be best for this test.
Another reason things leak is over tightening, believe it or not. It's tempting but try to get the fittings tight but not to the point of not being able to turn. Test at the trailer, and if something leaks (it should be a drip, not a spray), tighten 1/4 turn and see if it helps. Continue until it stops leaking.
Finally, place a clean paper towel under any joints. If there is even a tiny leak, the paper towel will have a damp spot... Feel up the line until your fingers get wet.
I hope this helps you. Once you get the "feel" of plumbing, it's easy but takes a little while. Good luck!
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Jul 7, 2018 21:04:46 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Jul 7, 2018 22:01:10 GMT -8
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 8, 2018 7:03:22 GMT -8
Note that the check valve has arrows stamped on at least one side, indicating the direction of the water flow. Find that first in your installation, might answer your question qickly.
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Jul 11, 2018 19:45:13 GMT -8
Well my husband hooked it up to the house hose -- no problem! Seems it has something to do with the RV water hose he purchased from HD The description _ 1/2" x 25' Element RV and Marine Hose -- Looks to me like the threaded section is shorter than my "normal" hose so it isn't sealing. And we really torqued on it with plyers, etc.
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