mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2019 20:16:22 GMT -8
You might want to wear a respirator for the rest of the clean up.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2019 16:52:58 GMT -8
When I read "No title" a cold, ominous wind blows through my living room.
I always get a chuckle out the no title comments because in Alabama on one that old. No title? No Problem! Yep it just depends on what state you live in as to whether a title is a problem or not. California is pretty easy on it also as long as the trailer has not been salvaged. I've had two like that so far and they are a bit harder to deal with. But not impossible.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2019 9:59:18 GMT -8
This is just classic. Really he should just take the rest of the metal off and head to the recycle yard. Then remove all the hardware and other hard parts. Burn the rest and sell all the parts. He could make as much as $500 on parts. And it's not an Aloha... It's not a 50s trailer either.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 7, 2019 9:52:49 GMT -8
Thanks! I hope to modify the layout to acommodate 3 people in realive comfort, but time will tell how that will work out. Ive been lurking for a bit now and have some inspiration from several projects here. First off welcome to our little piece of the internet. Second, thanks for watching my videos. I would like to warn you about modifying the layout because the only thing that is holding your camper together right now are the cabinets. The cabinets are the most important part of the design because that is where most of your structural integrity comes from. Without the cabinets being where they are and fastened the way they are fastened, your trailer would have turned to dust many years ago. You can't just remodel a trailer the way you remodel a house. In a house, the walls hold up the cabinet. In a trailer, the cabinets hold up the walls. Did you know that most of the cabinets are installed BEFORE the walls go up? So you need to think twice about changing or modifying the layout. Here is a little video that sort of explains all of this. I made this video for another one of our VTT members when she started on the wrong foot. youtu.be/hDdpZgSD1JMAgain thanks for watching and as said above, we are all here to help.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 6, 2019 19:54:45 GMT -8
Keep in mind that you must keep the towels moist. So that means a visit in there with the sprayer every hour or so depending on the humidity in your area at the time. 6 to 8 hours is what it takes. Then give it a try.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2019 17:21:24 GMT -8
Just so everyone knows, that technique doesn't work on all types of underlayment. At some point they began to mix an oil substance into it and the wet newspaper trick doesn't work on that at all. In the 66 Super Shasta I had to resort to chipping it all up with the multi-tool. Good job though and I'm glad it worked for you.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 30, 2018 17:13:21 GMT -8
It all depends on if I am building it for me or if I'm going to flip it. But either way, a lot of the above can determine what I'll pay for a trailer and whether I would even be interested. Vikx has the basics covered... I turn down a lot of trailers that are offered me. Price has a lot to do with it. I don't care what they are going for elsewhere. What can I get it for right now and again that all depends on whether or not I think it is marketable for a flip if I'm not building it for me. For me it must be a canned ham or a trunk trailer. I like trunks for some reason. I don't want any home builts. Mid to early 50s is my favorite era in time. Most of the parts must be there. Doesn't need to have a title I won't pay until I Know I can get one. I've got that down here in NV now and I had it down in CA when I lived there. Just have to get to know your DMV. For a flip, I just need to know if I can make a profit on it. I don't care what it is. Any year trailer if I think I can turn it. I have rules about flips. When the trailer leaves my driveway it is clean, safe to tow, titled and currently registered... New tires and all broken glass is replaced. Hitch works properly as do the brakes if it has them. Bearings are inspected and greased. Exterior lights all work. I’ve seen some jewels that have a shelf or a bunk bed above the bed, ours doesn’t. We’d like the extra storage and we also have a 7 yr old that could sleep there (not for long). What do you recommend? Should we just skip it altogether or should we add it? If we add it, how do we go about securing it? Any advice greatly appreciated ! You just need a support cleat on each wall and a piece of plywood in between. Cleat on the back wall as well.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 21, 2018 16:36:49 GMT -8
I just happen to have one good piece of H trim. That is how you seam two pieces of siding together. Looks like you need about an 18 inch long piece. You would continue the cut and put the edges in this H seam piece. Looks factory when finished.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 20, 2018 20:09:01 GMT -8
Someone builds ice fishing structures. I remember seeing that somewhere before. May have been here.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 18, 2018 8:12:49 GMT -8
I'm just going to hang back and watch on this one. The lack of supporting cabinets is a threat to the structural integrity but without seeing the entire trailer and not knowing whether it was a frame off or not I can't come to any conclusions. I've got a clear chassis out back and I've been considering building a custom canned ham in the future. It will have all the usual cabinets in all the usual places. When we stray from common, time proven theory it's a little scary so I'll be sticking with the norm.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 17, 2018 20:30:59 GMT -8
Larry, he said his grandfather built it on a old chassis, I'm sure he took some liberties with a home built. Danny OH... Guess I forgot that part. OK never mind LOL...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 17, 2018 16:08:42 GMT -8
Sorry I forgot this was a home built.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 16, 2018 17:59:43 GMT -8
If you buy it I would do a complete re-putty on it in order to keep it dry for years to come. No matter what's going on up there it's time because the putty tape dries out after that amount of time so even though you see no damage on the inside yet, it doesn't mean water is not getting in above that now. By the time you see the damage from the inside it's too late.
Welcome to the forum.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 16, 2018 17:48:12 GMT -8
Hi, brand new to this. I have a 1962 Ted’s Home trailer built in North Bay, Ontario Canada. Really that is what the plate says. It’s 15’ long, single axel, birch interior- looks kinda like a Shasta. If anyone else has ever heard of it I’m interested in finding out more! Hi and welcome to our mad house. Photos would be a huge plus.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 16, 2018 8:32:43 GMT -8
Unfortunately, there is a little water damage that I will need to do some fixing on, but not too bad. It will be stored under cover, until I can figure out exactly how I want to reseal everything. Don't think I want to go quite to the extreme by peeling the metal back & laying down new butyl tape. What is the next best thing to use to re-seal the seams on the top, around the windows & other areas on the exterior walls? You don't have to peel any metal back if you don't want to but you MUST reseal all the windows vents and doors in order to keep her in this condition. New putty tape is a must.
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