sherrifriend
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Post by sherrifriend on Mar 19, 2018 3:57:44 GMT -8
I am completely stressing about running wires trough my wood framing. Originally my tail and clearance lighting ran under the trailer - tail lights - rear clearance - front clearance. I just can't bring myself to drill the holes in the wood to get wires where they all need to go. I would love some photos (and clever advise) from others' adventures in wiring.
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Post by Ross on Mar 19, 2018 4:52:44 GMT -8
Holes were originally drilled through the camper framing for the wires. Here is a picture of our Yellowstone project. It shows the 12V running light, brake light wires, as well as the 12V interior wires for a few sconces. This one shows all of the 120V coming into one central location for the breaker panel. If these aren't helpful, let me know what you are wanting and I will look through more of my pictures.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Mar 19, 2018 6:41:35 GMT -8
Here is a picture of mine. Drill the holes (not too big but not too tight) in the center of the wood and it will not hurt the strength of the framing member. If you have several wires in a run use small zip ties to keep everything tidy. Most importantly take lots of pictures...I didn't take enough. Also, next time I would write measurements of where the wires are from windows, etc. right on the framing. Or at least hold a tape measure in the picture. It will be a lot less stressful when you are screwing things back together and can't see the wires. Wiring by
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Post by vikx on Mar 19, 2018 19:21:40 GMT -8
TOW WIRING:
I run mine under the trailer, starting at the front J box and sometimes placing one under the bed as well. From the back, I run the wires inside the back wall to the tails. Since my trailers usually only have back clearance lights, I sneak a wire from each tail to the cl. light.
12 volt wiring is pretty small, so it's easy to wire front clearance lights as well. A 5/16 hole is usually enough to accommodate a ground and hot.
Last thing, you don't necessarily need a ground run from the front to the back, as the entire trailer frame is a ground. You can bolt at the front and the back for each ground.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 20, 2018 13:56:27 GMT -8
The problem with running wires outside under the trailer is that rats and mice will eat your wiring...
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Post by vikx on Mar 20, 2018 20:43:06 GMT -8
Well, I've been there with the RATS. Dratted rats. They ate my car instead of a trailer. Lucky for them.
I say under the trailer makes it easy to do repairs. Damned if you do, damned if you don't...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 20, 2018 21:08:32 GMT -8
Well you can run all your wiring inside the trailer without ever having to go through the walls. You just run it through the cabinets and if there is a small space between cabinets you can make another short little one inch thick wall that the bed slides out on or a channel in the corner where the floor and the walls meet. There's always a way to keep everything inside... Just hope the rats don't break in...
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Post by danrhodes on Mar 21, 2018 9:34:46 GMT -8
The problem with running wires outside under the trailer is that rats and mice will eat your wiring... I ran mine in a cheap, $2 piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. It zip ties to the frame and the wires are mostly protected except for a few inches at the front or back. To drill holes in 3/4" thick framing, I used an angle drill bit holder and hex drills. It's a little floppy and hard to start, but you can guide it and once it bites in, it will stay straight. www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-Hex-MAXFIT-Pivot-Holder-DWAPVTMF/205997269
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 21, 2018 13:12:01 GMT -8
If I can help it I don't like to drill through 3/4 inch framing. It really takes a lot out of the wood and if you do run wires through there you need to make sure you know where they are when you are nailing or screwing into the framing. And you don't know that someone else later down the road might just screw something into the wall and hit that wiring. Lots of give and take here.
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sherrifriend
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Post by sherrifriend on Mar 21, 2018 14:04:53 GMT -8
If I can help it I don't like to drill through 3/4 inch framing. It really takes a lot out of the wood and if you do run wires through there you need to make sure you know where they are when you are nailing or screwing into the framing. And you don't know that someone else later down the road might just screw something into the wall and hit that wiring. Lots of give and take here. I was not a fan of drilling little holes through that framing yesterday, that's for sure. Got one side done. I tried staggering the run and kept it low. Will brainstorm ideas on how to keep track of wires behind walls. Maybe a good map for future reference will be good - pictures and measurements. Going to run the 12V tow lighting (clearance lights and such) underneath and up through the back of frame and through the walls. All the 12V (except the fan) and 110V wiring will run inside. I only plan for 2 (maybe 3) 110V outlets and a small DC power station (USB, Voltmeter, plug). I've dealt with mice and rats before and I know those little bastards will eat ANYTHING. My underbelly is primarily wood so it'll require pretty frequent routine inspection and upkeep. I'll inspect for critter damage before heading out on the road. I debated on running individual grounds for my clearance lighting, as I've seen others do, but I decided to have faith in the metal trailer skin - thanks Vikx.
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Post by vikx on Mar 21, 2018 21:03:41 GMT -8
sherrifriend, it's not the "skin" but the metal frame that is your ground. I ground the skin to the frame with small short wires as well. Everything has ground wires, including all the tow lighting. What I meant was you can ground things in the back with a ground bolt thru the frame and in the front with a separate ground bolt. I hope this makes sense. The entire metal frame is a ground. Everybody, here is an idea for those of you with 3/4" wood walls: glue/marry two sticks on either side of where the hole is drilled. You can pre-drill on the bench to make it easier. This will add strength to the stud. ALSO: Run wires INSIDE thru cabinets, the dinette, any place but the walls if at all possible. These are normally 110 and some 12 volt wiring. As said above, the tow wiring can be under the trailer of inside, your choice. I made the mistake of wiring the walls in my Hanson and it's been a pain to attach things without poking a wire somewhere, someplace.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Mar 24, 2018 8:27:27 GMT -8
I was able to run everything inside in cabinets and bulkheads. The original wiring was hacked by a po. The main lead back to the tailights terminates at a junction block that is behind kitchen drawers and accessible if you remove drawers. If you are running through framing, you shouldn't need a very big hole for a single wire. You could even space smaller holes for individual wires rather than feed a bundle through a larger hole.
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