kaffi311
Active Member
Posts: 283
Likes: 98
1963 Shasta 16 SC
Currently Offline
|
Post by kaffi311 on Nov 27, 2017 17:52:27 GMT -8
My dismantling of my 65 Shasta SC is going well- have all lower skins off and roof is ready to be lifted when I get to it. It does needs new subfloor in places - it is especially soft at the doorway. Questions: 1) Can I just put in new subfloor in areas that are soft (ie a partial piece of plywood) or better to do whole plywood floor for structural integrity/minimize leaks? 2) do you recommend fixing framing first (mostly sill board, lower curbing and window/door frames) and then moving to the floor? Or do I replace bad floor area first then do framing. 3) Also- if framing needs replacing but the birch paneling on that part looks good- I presume I need to take the birch off to fix framing? Wondering if you can replace framing pieces without removing inner birch panel. Stupid question? I am learning- slowly but surely Thanks! Just a few shots- <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126814716@N02/38658143152/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0625"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/38658143152_6396170466_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0625"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126814716@N02/38658137382/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0664"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/38658137382_b5c8985607_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0664"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126814716@N02/38658135472/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0632"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4560/38658135472_5c717f5ca7_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0632"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,744
Likes: 2,871
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Nov 27, 2017 19:25:31 GMT -8
Thanks for the photos.
1) Can I just put in new subfloor in areas that are soft (ie a partial piece of plywood) or better to do whole plywood floor for structural integrity/minimize leaks?
I usually just replace rotted subfloor but it needs (IMO) to go completely side to side.
2) do you recommend fixing framing first (mostly sill board, lower curbing and window/door frames) and then moving to the floor? Or do I replace bad floor area first then do framing.
I've seen it done both ways. I like to do the floor first then curbing/sill.
3) Also- if framing needs replacing but the birch paneling on that part looks good- I presume I need to take the birch off to fix framing? Wondering if you can replace framing pieces without removing inner birch panel.
I've saved birch panels by surgically working from the outside-in. Getting twisty nail out without wreaking the panel can be tricky and if the framing is rotted most of the way up the wall you may as well replace the panel.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Nov 27, 2017 21:19:56 GMT -8
I start at the sills and skirts. Sometimes the floor can be pieced but proper framing has to be in place to support the patch. There is a chapter in my book showing how or you can email me for more pix. If the rot isn't too bad, the patches work pretty well. If a lot of the floor is compromised, you'll have to take it down to the frame to replace it.
I've done both. In one case, I hung the body from the rafters and pulled the frame/floor out from under it. The entire floor was so rotten I could remove it by hand. It was very easy to install/add runners and sills and the new floor. I used 1/2" ply running one way, then cross ways with 1/4" underlayment. It was very strong and the flooring covered it smoothly.
|
|
|
Post by darrin7583 on Dec 10, 2017 13:28:37 GMT -8
I'm actually in the process of replacing the flooring in my 62. I rebuilt what was needed of the walls and sills first, then I started tackling the floors. No particular reason because I don't think it would matter either way as the floors lay down between the walls. I agree that they need to go fully across. Mine were only delaminating slightly at the entry door and curb side cargo doors but enough not to trust new tIles to stick to it. They probably didn't need full replacement but I pulled the entire floor. The sound board was surprisingly like new. If you replace the floor, just make sure that the seams of the two layers of floor are staggered. Pulling those nails is a bear. Make sure to spray the nut on the carriage bolts in advance with some type of penetrating oil then spray them again just before attempting to remove them. It'll cut down on the number you'll have to cut out. I only had to cut about 5 or 6. The rest just screwed right off.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,749
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Dec 15, 2017 15:11:36 GMT -8
|
|