Post by ruderunner on Oct 8, 2017 4:04:59 GMT -8
It seems that there are 2 basic design for wall framing
Style one has the walls attached to the sides of the floor
Style two has the walls sitting on the floor
Both work but it seems both have drawbacks both have advantages. Style one helps reinforce the floor and possibly the frame but sacrifices roof support. Style two has higher roof support but needs a stronger floor and frame to support it.
I'm thinking about a combination of the two, an inner layer of vertical framing to sit on the floor and support the roof and an outter layer of horizontal framing to support the skins and skirt. Yes it will be thicker and heavier than what most of you are doing but I intend to use the thickness for insulation and may need the roof support for overhead ac. The thinking here is mainly unbroken boards for the height and length of the body, helping overall stability.
I also have a crazy idea for framing the corner profiles that can make curbing much easier. A double layer of 3/4" plywood the inner layer sitting on the floor, the outter layer outside the floor and making the skirts. The inner layer may or may not be the finished side, more on that later.
Stop laughing, I know it sounds very heavy but I intend to window or maybe web is a better description the plywood to reduce the weight, think spokes in a wheel. The inner layer would provide very good support for front and rear cabinetry, the outter layer would allow consistent profiles for each side. No more each side has a slightly different shape! Heck I could even sandwich the side skins between the layers of plywood while cutting the profiles, this pretty much guarantee that everything is the same shape.
Another advantage would be much simpler curbing. Here's how,. The inner layer would be cut at the same time as the outter layer, then the inner layer would have a strip cut off the outside to account for the ceiling panels, end wall panels and the framing for them. This cut off curve could then be cut into sections that fit between the rafters and end wall framing, no cutting each piece to shape like Marty did, no stacking and gluing layers like most others do. Not to mention plywood holds the J rail screws better through the faces compared to the end grains.
Hope that's a clear enough description of what I have in mind because I could use some advice on exactly how to do this. So a couple questions,
concerning window and door openings, I'm thinking about using the webbed plywood idea on the inner layer for the sake of it's ability to keep the openings square or do you think they'd be better on the outside layer? I'd use filler pieces for the gaps and would need a finished interior panel.
As a concession to weight, if I put plywood on the inner layer for door and window openings, I could use finished 3/4 plywood to match the panelling (think Corvette or Scotty), however that would mean using only 1/2" wall studs to keep the 1/4" panelling flush. I'm thinking the weight gain from full 3/4" sheets would be more than the loss from thinner studs. Scratch that, I wouldn't necessarily need to use full 4'*8' sheets, just enough to have say 6" on either side of the opening. Alternative to thinner studs would be 1/4" lath as filler between inner and outer layer keeping the finished side of the 3/4 ply flush with the inside panels..
Would 1*2 be sufficient or would you go heavier? This is a strength vs weight question. End wall framing would be 2*2, rafters would be 2*4 cut with a crown for roof runoff.
As stated earlier I'd like to keep the wall thickness about 1.5" to 1.75" including the inside finished panelling. This is for insulation but also allows for electrical possibly plumbing to fit better. With the thicker walls I could use regular shallow boxes for outlets and lights and switches without them protruding from the walls.
Those who haven't been keeping up on my dream build need to know that I don't intend to start with a vintage camper, likely a much larger newer unit with a stronger frame and axles to begin with. I also intend to have heat, ac, fridge and other modern necessities. While I'd like to stay under 4000# if we go heavier than not a big deal. Yes 2-3 times heavier than what you're used to.
Style one has the walls attached to the sides of the floor
Style two has the walls sitting on the floor
Both work but it seems both have drawbacks both have advantages. Style one helps reinforce the floor and possibly the frame but sacrifices roof support. Style two has higher roof support but needs a stronger floor and frame to support it.
I'm thinking about a combination of the two, an inner layer of vertical framing to sit on the floor and support the roof and an outter layer of horizontal framing to support the skins and skirt. Yes it will be thicker and heavier than what most of you are doing but I intend to use the thickness for insulation and may need the roof support for overhead ac. The thinking here is mainly unbroken boards for the height and length of the body, helping overall stability.
I also have a crazy idea for framing the corner profiles that can make curbing much easier. A double layer of 3/4" plywood the inner layer sitting on the floor, the outter layer outside the floor and making the skirts. The inner layer may or may not be the finished side, more on that later.
Stop laughing, I know it sounds very heavy but I intend to window or maybe web is a better description the plywood to reduce the weight, think spokes in a wheel. The inner layer would provide very good support for front and rear cabinetry, the outter layer would allow consistent profiles for each side. No more each side has a slightly different shape! Heck I could even sandwich the side skins between the layers of plywood while cutting the profiles, this pretty much guarantee that everything is the same shape.
Another advantage would be much simpler curbing. Here's how,. The inner layer would be cut at the same time as the outter layer, then the inner layer would have a strip cut off the outside to account for the ceiling panels, end wall panels and the framing for them. This cut off curve could then be cut into sections that fit between the rafters and end wall framing, no cutting each piece to shape like Marty did, no stacking and gluing layers like most others do. Not to mention plywood holds the J rail screws better through the faces compared to the end grains.
Hope that's a clear enough description of what I have in mind because I could use some advice on exactly how to do this. So a couple questions,
concerning window and door openings, I'm thinking about using the webbed plywood idea on the inner layer for the sake of it's ability to keep the openings square or do you think they'd be better on the outside layer? I'd use filler pieces for the gaps and would need a finished interior panel.
As a concession to weight, if I put plywood on the inner layer for door and window openings, I could use finished 3/4 plywood to match the panelling (think Corvette or Scotty), however that would mean using only 1/2" wall studs to keep the 1/4" panelling flush. I'm thinking the weight gain from full 3/4" sheets would be more than the loss from thinner studs. Scratch that, I wouldn't necessarily need to use full 4'*8' sheets, just enough to have say 6" on either side of the opening. Alternative to thinner studs would be 1/4" lath as filler between inner and outer layer keeping the finished side of the 3/4 ply flush with the inside panels..
Would 1*2 be sufficient or would you go heavier? This is a strength vs weight question. End wall framing would be 2*2, rafters would be 2*4 cut with a crown for roof runoff.
As stated earlier I'd like to keep the wall thickness about 1.5" to 1.75" including the inside finished panelling. This is for insulation but also allows for electrical possibly plumbing to fit better. With the thicker walls I could use regular shallow boxes for outlets and lights and switches without them protruding from the walls.
Those who haven't been keeping up on my dream build need to know that I don't intend to start with a vintage camper, likely a much larger newer unit with a stronger frame and axles to begin with. I also intend to have heat, ac, fridge and other modern necessities. While I'd like to stay under 4000# if we go heavier than not a big deal. Yes 2-3 times heavier than what you're used to.
