ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Sept 4, 2017 3:21:51 GMT -8
So since I'm not a cabinet builder, I'm considering using off the shelf or some other pre built cabinets in my trailer. Has anyone else done this?
How did you attach them to walls and ceiling and floor? I'm thinking of adding cleats to the cabinet so I have a good attachment point.
I'd be using plywood based cabinets, not particleboard, I'd be installing 4 overhead (one each front, rear and each side) for the kitchen il need 2 base cabinet and a fridge or pantry unit, a bathroom vanity and I'll have to come up with something for the front pass through/ bedframe cabinets. All will require some modifications but those hopefully can be kept on the unseen side.
I'm actually not far from the Kraftmaid factory and they have a warehouse where they sell scratch and dent or mis ordered stuff fairly inexpensive.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 4, 2017 6:10:36 GMT -8
Here is just my opinion. I've built quite a few house cabinets and installed many more made by top end custom guys to Home Depot garbage. Only have experience with trailer cabs on my two. First, to get anything that won't fall apart it will be expensive. Second, and more importantly, they will be much heavier than vintage trailer style. Framework on the trailer may be light 1x pine but others will be solid 3/4 " ply. Others will have ideas too I'm sure. Good luck.
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Post by danrhodes on Sept 4, 2017 6:36:16 GMT -8
I'm not a cabinet builder but was pretty easily able to rebuild some of my more destroyed cabinets. I would not consider using off the shelf cabinets...way too heavy and not built to withstand the flexing of a moving camper.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Sept 4, 2017 6:53:55 GMT -8
So the weak point in an actual vintage camper would likely be the side framing of just 1x.
However, I'm planning on a scratch build and was figuring on 2x2 wall framing, probably shaped 2x4 for the roof (cutting a 1/2" crown in them for runoff) Do you think that would be strong enough? I'd place the framing where it would meet the cabinets.
We did our home kitchen with Kraftmaid cabinets over 5 years ago, not a single hiccup with them. Pretty confident the cabnets themselves will hold up.
We really have only used our current camper about 3 times a year, maybe a total of 2 weeks a year. Our planned build will see (hopefully) much more use. While we haven't had any problems with the cabinets in our trailer, i would suspect that is due to lack of use. How do camper cabinets hold up under more fequent use? Honestly they feel pretty flimsy.
If (IF) our core camper has useable cabinets of the right sizes I'd not rule out using those but that's a long shot for anyhting other than the bedroom overhed and pass through arrangements.
As for total weight of the camper as planned, I'm guesstimating a 4000# fully loaded weight which would include up to 750# pounds for water/waste tanks. Based on our current camper (50 gal fresh, 25 each for black and grey) I could go a little smaller on the grey and possibly only 25 for fresh. I know that sound pretty heavy compared to what most here are used to but in this case, comfort, durability and ease of use trump weight. We won't be pulling with a Honda.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 4, 2017 8:13:19 GMT -8
I'd still look for other cabinet options besides those with full 3/4 ply bottoms, ends, partitions and shelves. Maybe you could get a local cabinet shop to make you some face frames and then come up with a much lighter, but strong, box system. Light weight is not necessarily weak.
And you can buy doors and drawer boxes on line.
As for your framing....my 62 has 2x2 walls which I repaired in many places and I totally rebuilt the roof, and did so like original except for material type.
I used poplar which is not too expensive, very strong and easy to work with. The center half dozen rafters are 1 1/2" at walls and taper to 2 1/2 " at vent area. Near the front and rear they go down to 1 1/2 square. I put a new .032 roof on and it came out real nice.
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Post by danrhodes on Sept 4, 2017 13:43:52 GMT -8
You have to remember, your donor frame will be made to support a much lighter camper. If I was building custom, 2x2 would be the most I'd use and I'd probably still opt for 1x for weight. The consensus is that the wall framing is really just a structure to mount the cabinets and windows and doesn't provide much strength. Mine was floppy as it could be, with loose staples and gaping joints, but once the cabinets are installed and the roof ply is attached in an overlapping fashion, it's a super sturdy box.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Sept 5, 2017 6:14:16 GMT -8
Actually the donors I'm looking at are typically on a couple 3500# axles.. figured on starting with a 24_28 footer and shortening it.
Buying just faces and doors is interesting, hadn't thought of that.
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chickenfarmer
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Post by chickenfarmer on Sept 6, 2017 17:24:53 GMT -8
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 6, 2017 19:24:40 GMT -8
Very nice. Look lightweight, strong, and authentic to the era. Ruderunner, if you do like this you can screw rear cabinet frame from inside to studs and then from outside in, screw ply siding back into cabinet frame with rock solid results.
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