Curved slider in screen door how to cut??

Hi. I'd cut that curve with a router. Make a template from a 1/4 " scrap af Masonite by cutting with jig saw and then sanding till its perfect. Sand by hand or with a drum on the drill press. Clamp the jig to finish piece and cut using bit with the collar on top. First rough cut curve on oak leaving a quarter inch or so to trim with router. Practice a cut on a scrap first to make sure depth etc is adjusted right. If that finish top as in the picture is ply (I can't tell), go slow and easy with a new sharp cutter to avoid tear out.

The door
Forester-screen door on camper b


The slider
Forester-screen door slot for slider by

the router bit
door slider bit by

I wish I had made the slider 1" bigger top to bottom.

I hope this helps.

Hi Friends,

While I wanted to try out the router, I didn't have time to try it out.I decided to go for it and cut the pieces without the router. The entire screen door needs to be refinished anyway, but it's not on the priority list.

Below is the final result with the slider closed.


Slider open.




I had some left over oak paneling that was supposed to be for my Westerner. I made a cardboard mock up of it to see if my idea would work. It did, but… not the best idea to make a template from cardboard though.
The door and screen strips of different lengths.

Cutting the wood for the slider was made difficult by not having a working table saw. I had to use a skillsaw to cut the large piece. I cut the curve with a saber saw, but got off the pencil line. The curve ends don’t quite line up, but for a first stab at it, it works. Sand paper was my friend… I applied a natural stain to the wood and that’s all it’s going to get for now. The whole screen door needs to be refinished.

I have to admit to another mistake. The screen door is not square from exposure to water , so it sags about ¼” on the right outside corner. There is some play in the door, so you can adjust it by hand and bring it back to nearly square.

The main slider board becomes a truss once it’s screwed on and can correct the saggy corner. I thought I could jam the door frame up against the baseboard in my house and then wedge with a spare tire on the saggy end and force the door frame back into position and then screw down the slider board.  Somehow, though, I messed up and made it worse. 

So, I took out the screws and added two more while the screen door was mounted to the trailer. I corrected what had become and exaggerated sag.  I ran out of screws, but took the picture anyway. 2 screws are missing.

Now… modern day paneling is only veneered on one side. So, when you look at the screen door and it’s closed, you can see the rough paneling. I need to add a close up picture and then you can see what I mean.


Slider is open.


If I was refinishing the door, this would be a big problem. However, since I have left the vintage patina on the door , it kind of blends in, LOL. So, what would I do if I was refinishing the door? I can see gluing a piece of the nice side to the slider, but then if the slider is closed, you see the rough side of the main board . How do you get around that?

Also, where does the knob go on the slider if I need to open it from the outside?


Cheers,

Rod