A few gas fridge and water heater questions

Has anyone here ever tried this gas valve? Seems it takes a little modification, but appears to work ok, via the reviews

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC18HU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWPBFTW0ZXVPR

Another option I found was this www.ebay.com/itm/332055475417 to use electricity rather than propane?

First, the most commonly offered advice here is to make sure to check the entire system for leaks. It looks like you already know this, but it is still worth repeating. A leak in a propane system can turn disastrous in a real big hurry, and that is the first thing you want to make sure to fix.


Second, the regulator. If the trailer has the original on it, I would recommend changing it out just on general principles. After so many years, I would not trust the diaphragm and failure could become a possibility at the worst possible times. (Change the pigtail lines too.)  If the trailer sat with the tanks unhooked, there may be insect leavings in the pigtail lines that could be restricting the propane flow.

The flame you see in the fridge is the actual burner. It is regulated by the temperature control, but does not go out and relight by a pilot, like the water heater. It heats the ammonia in the chamber above, and the housing acts as the chimney for the burner. Remember that the most common problem with these old fridges is the coils failing and leaking the ammonia out, rendering them useless. If you are noticing any odor of ammonia in the compartment then it is likely on its way out. One other point, in case you are not familiar, it takes a good 24 hours for the fridge to reach operating temperature running on propane.

You may be able to get away with replacing the thermocouple in the water heater. That is the usual culprit when the pilot won't stay lit. If it lights, the valve is probably alright.

Remember that changing to electric will require some new wiring, and will also require proper electric hookups. 

When I reached this point, I was more concerned with what had been in and through the tank, and what might be left in the water. I decided to change out the whole tank. It is likely to cost a couple of hundred-dollar bills, but the new heater takes the worry out of the job. These old heaters are easily replaced if you decide to go that route. Atwood makes a replacement that is sized the same as the originals, and changing is a matter of a little putty tape and some simple plumbing.


I took the opportunity to plumb it in with a bypass kit while I was at it.  Makes winterizing a lot easier.

Okay, it may be more like a few hundred-dollar bills...but here are a few on ebay. They are gas only, no electronics, simplest setup. If your exterior door is in good shape, it is the same fit as a new one would be.

www.ebay.com/itm/ATWOOD-6-GALLON-PILOT-GAS-CAMPER-MOTORHOME-WATER-HEATER-G6A-7-G6A7-96202-96110-/382128606950?hash=item58f8a3cee6

www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATWOOD-RV-WATER-HEATER-G6A-7-SIX-GALLON-LP-GAS-PILOT-LIGHT-WITH-WHITE-DOOR-/132155121781?hash=item1ec50f2075

Might be mounted behind the skin, I have seen that done before. It isn't hard to do, just takes some time, but the skin would have to be taken loose enough to expose it completely. I assume you will be lifting some skins to check framing anyway, so this is not really extra steps.

Before going through all of that, you might try taking the plumbing loose and see if it will slide out at all. That would give you a clue as to its mounting.

That sounds like a draft problem. The smaller circle is the air mixture, I believe. If you have gas coming out of it it is probably because there isn't enough draft to keep the airflow going, which would also account for the flame backing out of the tank. I would look for a mouse nest or something farther downstream that is blocking the airflow.