diagriene
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by diagriene on Jun 12, 2017 10:18:18 GMT -8
Hello all,
Pardon my total newbie query, but I want to make sure I understand this process before I head to my trailer site and work off-line on the back window. I have a 1963 Glendale Golden Falcon, and I know there is serious water damage around the lower curbside corner of the back window. Well, 100% for certain around the whole window but that's where it's noticeable on the inside panelling. The window is a solid piece of glass, that's 3-4 feet long (or, if you ask me in my more panicked moments, omg-there's-no-way-I-can-do-this-on-my-own feet long). I can't work on re-framing the ol gal at this juncture, but I do want to stop the leaks where I can. The back and the curbside of the trailer are the weather sides, so I will start there.
In any case, when I mentioned my strategy on the Intro board, LadyWendolyn suggested that I use glue and toothpicks to facilitate the replacement of the window after I remove, re-putty (and perchance reglaze) the window. I've searched other threads for more information, and I have determined that:
1) you put the glue and the toothpicks in the screw holes in the frame to allow the screws purchase when re-screwing them; 2) you cut the toothpicks flush
Okay. I have bought one inch hex stainless screws. That was the easy part. So, if I survive removing the window, I then take the screw holes in the frame, put Gorilla glue in them, and stick a toothpick in the middle of each hole and cut the toothpick flush with the hole edge. Then, once the glue dries and it's time to replace the window, I attempt to line up the screw holes on the frame with the ones on the window - harder to do, I imagine with the new putty tape in between. Do I yank out the toothpicks, or do they basically just get pushed out/annihalated by the screw?
Anything else I should know? Thank you, Sandra
|
|
Ziggy66
Junior Member
Posts: 65
Likes: 41
1966 Kit Companion 1500
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ziggy66 on Jun 12, 2017 10:46:56 GMT -8
The toothpicks and glue in the holes gives the screws something to "bite" rather than going into a big stripped hole.
|
|
roadtripper
Active Member
Posts: 311
Likes: 116
Currently Offline
|
Post by roadtripper on Jun 12, 2017 11:28:22 GMT -8
I' ve used the old glue and toothpick trick for years on all kinds of things. Wood matchsticks are good too, especially in slightly larger holes. And i usually just use titebond glue.
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Jun 12, 2017 18:27:10 GMT -8
I usually shave dimensional lumber with a utility knife for this reason. I just hope you don't plan to use the trailer in this state...if the window framing can't hold screws, you have a lot of hidden rot that makes towing very unsafe.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 12, 2017 20:31:26 GMT -8
It usually takes 2-3 toothpicks per hole, I sometimes use dowels.
That being said, glue and toothpicks will not help the screws bite in rotten wood. If the window framing is bad nothing will seat the window other than new wood.
|
|
diagriene
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Currently Offline
|
Post by diagriene on Jun 13, 2017 2:49:54 GMT -8
Good point about the rot; I have no idea what it will look like, but yes, I am aware that if the frame is rotten, there is little that will help. I won't know until I remove the window. I do have a Plan B, but it does not include moving the trailer. She's been in the same spot for 10 years, and at this point, there is no way she can hit the open road without facing the potential of being strewn all over it (I have seen the pictures on this site!). I'd like to think that my current strategy of preserving the trailer and preventing further damage until such time as she can be restored is reasonable and within my means at the moment. This is not a trailer I am selling, pulling or "glamping up"; its simply a fun vacation destination for my family.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jun 13, 2017 4:49:38 GMT -8
IMHO only, as a clobber-ass mechanic and even worse carpenter, I would say there is merit to your plan. If the trailer is not going to be towed all over the place, it should hold up enough to reseal the putty enough around window frames to keep water to a minimum, by restoring the screw holes with the ole glue and filler method.
I use Gorilla Glue for this method of clobber-assed repair, but use it sparingly as it expands greatly when it sets. My approach is to fill the hole nearly completely with the toothpicks. Dip them into the glue and press them into the holes, and then cut flush with wire cutters as you mentioned. Don't worry about aligning holes perfectly, they will be close when the window frame is put into place in the opening. Be aware that the frame may need to be shimmed in the opening when replacing it. You can eyeball the fit closely enough, and if it is needed, it will be quite obvious.
Once you snug the window frame in place into the putty, tap it lightly all around the perimeter with a block of wood and a hammer to seat the aluminum into the putty, then re-check your screws. Let the screws do the work and do not overtighten them, so as to strip out the repaired hole.
|
|
thunder&rye
New Member
Posts: 1
1972 Glendale Golden Falcon
Currently Offline
|
Post by thunder&rye on Aug 16, 2017 7:31:50 GMT -8
Golf tees, glue, and a flush-cut saw work well too (for larger existing screw holes). Made from hardwood, tapered, and can be tapped into place like a wooden nail. Let the glue set before cutting the tee flush to the surface.
|
|