sherrifriend
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1967 Compact Shasta
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Post by sherrifriend on Apr 29, 2017 7:35:51 GMT -8
Hypothetically, I would go and reuse my battered up aluminum skin for the Shasta. Of course I'd strip it and clean it first. What is my best way of going about making repairs to the holes and chewed up corners?
I am considering using various sized rivets in the little holes and then riveting some aluminum pieces on the big holes. Then some self-leveling sealant with all these repairs. Also thought about using some metal tape along the edges/seams because that just seems like the places where all the water will seep into the trailer.
Thoughts?
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 29, 2017 9:14:44 GMT -8
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sherrifriend
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1967 Compact Shasta
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Post by sherrifriend on Apr 30, 2017 3:18:32 GMT -8
Yes, photos. Sorry for some reason that's difficult on my mobile. It may be hard to tell from these photos, I will try to get some better ones today when I'm out working, but the corners are all bent out of shape. On one piece a previous owner made some cuts which altered the overall shape. I think the skin has been removed probably at least 3 times by now so all the edges have holes galore.   |
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mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 30, 2017 16:59:40 GMT -8
To do any welding on the skins edges might distort them so they`d be worse than they are now. Not only that but welds will be a lot stiffer than the skins.
If the skins were cut down and are now too small, it might be better to just get new.
If all of the holes is on the mounting flange of the joint, i would not be too concerned about that, also along the top edge where the roofing bends down over the sides. They will be covered up.
If there are holes in the middle of the panels, You might be able to cut some pieces of aluminum siding that has the same shape and get those welded in, then they should be pretty well hid after a paint job.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 30, 2017 18:37:41 GMT -8
"On one piece a previous owner made some cuts which altered the overall shape. I think the skin has been removed probably at least 3 times by now so all the edges have holes galore."
I've seen people cover a couple of holes with fake vents or metal badges but long term it may not be possible to keep water out with holes galore. Marty may be right, new skin in places may be your safest (yet expensive) option.
Around the edges, putty is your safest way to go. in places, like a vent, some of us use a double layer of putty.
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doubled
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Post by doubled on May 30, 2017 13:03:20 GMT -8
Has anyone tried brazing small holes? I've seen it done on boats but I imagine thats a lot thicker aluminum.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on May 30, 2017 13:34:58 GMT -8
Someone in the forum posted in an ebay link with some aluminum rod that with some practice, can weld on aluminum cans with, using a propane Berns-O-Matic torch. Here is some available from home depot. Use a stainless steel wire brush for scrubbing the aluminum with before trying to weld it. If paint is present, it will have to be removed first. Do not use a stainless steel brush that has been used on other things, like steel etc. www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-AL3-Aluminum-Brazing-and-Welding-Rods-334491/203710179 |
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doubled
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Post by doubled on Aug 12, 2018 18:18:33 GMT -8
Tried filling some holes and fixing a roof crack with the aluminum brazing rods today. The metal on trailers is too thin and buckles when heated enough to melt the rod.
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DaytonaGTS
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Post by DaytonaGTS on Aug 13, 2018 12:21:46 GMT -8
We really, really wanted to save and reuse the original sheet metal but like yours it would have needed a lot of work trying to repair it and then there would be no guarantee that it would be water tight. With the amount of work we put into the interior it just made sense to get all new skins and it really was one of the best decisions we made. All edges are nice and clean and sealed up very tight. If your going to repaint it anyways new skins will make it a lot easier will save a ALOT of time and might even save some money in the end.
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