joek
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Post by joek on Apr 3, 2017 10:08:37 GMT -8
Hi All,
I'm a little confused on what is the recommended process for sealing the corners. When I did my trailer 6-7 years ago, I put butyl putty tape between the skin and roof lap, then again between the j-rail and roof lap. When the trailer was originally built, they didn't do anything in between the roof and skin, as all I found in there was dirt.
In doing research, I couldn't find definite opinions on whether to install putty between the roof seam and skin. Some people talk of putty, then a caulk bead to seal the putty form drying out.
On the Shasta Airflyte and most canned hams, that seam runs along the roof line, then becomes vertical down the front and back and then past vertical as it get's closer to the bottom. Without something in the joint, isn't it inviting moisture?
I'm redoing the seams in the back of the trailer. I had a leak on the curb side, that I think was actually coming from the Shasta wing attachment screws. Unfortunately I just redid the back last year to deal with termite damage, which I think we perpetuated by a leak at the rear window. This new damage is even higher up than the last repair, and involves stripping the rear even higher than I have ever gone before before, if only by about a foot. So when I put this back together, should I put the butyl tape back in the bent over lap between the rear skin and side skin? Or a small bead of Tremco 635?
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Apr 3, 2017 18:06:22 GMT -8
I tried tape in the fold over and didn't like it. It made it hard to get the fold flat.
1/4" wide tape instead of my inaccurate cut down 3/4" tape would probably help. I've used a small amount of gutter seal on the fold where the curve front and back come down with good results. And as vikx suggested, I've added a little sealer on the fold over staples.
I'm sure others have their own system.
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Post by vikx on Apr 5, 2017 21:06:00 GMT -8
I don't use putty between the the skin and fold either. It is just to hard to get the fold flat. If I understand your post, you've never loosened the entire roof and re-puttied the J rail all the way? That could very well be your leak source. Often the edge wood is too rotten to allow the screws to grip and squeeze the putty to form a good seal. As far as sealing, I fold the roof over and staple/nail in place. (older hams with aircraft aluminum get stainless 17 x 7/8 nails) Once that is secure, I seal every staple head and divot with OSI gutter seal. Geocel makes an aluminum colored gutter seal as well. Both are good products. Once the J rail is puttied and screwed securely, a VERY THIN layer can be run along the rail top edge. It should be smoothed with a paint thinner dipped finger and never thick, as in very hard to see... I don't use any poly caulking because it way too hard to remove if repairs are needed. And believe me, they will be needed...
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joek
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Post by joek on Apr 6, 2017 10:54:27 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies. I did remove the entire j-rail and redo the putty tape 6 years, but it's probably a good time to redo that. I think I'll go ahead and eliminate putty between the roof and wall, and go with putty under the j-rail only. I think when trying to get it flat, you never get even pressure and may end up in worse shape because voids are created. I don't know about other trailers, but in my Shasta, all of the wood that the j-rail screws bit into is not solid wood but instead 3 layers of 1/4" plywood. Sending screws into edge grain of plywood is never going to provide a very good bite, and much less so with 3 layers of 1/4". your likely to end up going between layers and getting no purchase. I put new solid wood in the areas that I touched, but that left about 8' of the roof on either side untouched. I suppose if I'm going to pull the j-rails off both sides, it won't be much more work to lift the roof and install new blocking. Ofcourse I'm trying to avoid the "while I'm at it" disease. I did that with the car in garage, and it ended up on a rotisserie
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mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 7, 2017 0:43:33 GMT -8
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joek
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Post by joek on Apr 7, 2017 20:02:15 GMT -8
Datsun 240z
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Post by vikx on Apr 7, 2017 20:47:22 GMT -8
I think you are very wise to re-do the edge wood. I would look VERY carefully when you lift the roof for water penetration and try to figure out where it is coming from. Water is insidious and will creep and crawl all over the place...
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